Lowering Frame Bed

[gbw]

So many people followed this thread so I wanted to show the completed pistols. They're unfinished, the frames are raw steel, small parts as sent from mfg.

The subject of the thread is the top gun in the photos. Nothing fancy here, I just wanted to try to build a pair good, reliable, accurate fixed sight pistols.

The trigger is a temporary until I can find another long steel trigger that fits the Caspian frame -without the gap at the rear - to make into a ‘Gold Cup’ style like the other pistol. Both guns are set to break right at 5#, and very clean. The other pistol has a temporary bushing installed.

The bullseye is 4” is diameter, grid lines are 0.5”. No idea yet if the flyers are me or the pistols. Range was 28 yds., handheld from a rest.

The guns both had 1 or 2 FRBs in the first 100 rds., using flush seated lead SWCs. Found the cartridge case was catching high on the left edge of the chamber and peeling the brass out slightly – the chamber mouth is square and very sharp in that area (Kart NM bbl). I broke the edge of the chamber lightly and have had no failures since – about 600 rds. now. I haven’t given it a very hot / dirty trial yet. I’m curious to see if the ramp is deflecting the shell off to the left slightly – possible. I polished the ramp of both guns very lightly to break the tool marks, otherwise left them alone.

I ended up lowering the frame bed .021, and removed the VIS ‘bow tie’ shoulder. This helped, but I never did get the clearances I was after. The Schuemann test 1 gives about .007”, he calls for .015. I cold blued the barrel lugs top and bottom, and so far there is no sign whatever of interference, so other than watching for wear I think it’s good to go. Lower lug contact with VIS is consistent across the width, and extends down about .060, about right I think. (Clearances on the other pistol are somewhat closer to the Schuemann spec.)

All in all I’m pleased with the guns. I’ve some cosmetic work to clean up. The mark on the spring tunnel on the slide is from me not being careful with a file, the slides are well centered in the dust covers. On the other pistol I made the mistake of assuming I could drift the sight without damage using a brass drift. Wrong. And I only wanted to move it a couple of thousandths. And some other cosmetic stuff.

The stippling is not meant for looks, it’s what feels best to me when shooting – I do try to make it look as good as I can.

Now I have to decide how to finish them – I’m tending toward leaving the slides blue and hard chroming everything else, but I’m still not sure.

That will probably wait ‘til spring – my wife is a princess, and I wouldn’t trade her for a NIB Navy 1911 from 1918 – well, I don’t think I would. But she does ask now and then how much I’m spending this week on guns.

[Iron bottom]

Top notch looking pistols, GBW.

[7790314]

I like the bordered stippling job. Also since you have so much time to decide, do the right thing and makeem all blue. Two tone guns are a fad that already faded. Compare the value of a nickel plated series 70 to a blue one. Woman come and go but a Navy would be a rare and beautiful gem.

[gbw]

Thanks, IB.

779, good job, you may have sold me. I like blued guns also - the first ones I did - and the only other guns I've built, are all blue. Sort of Gold Cup clones, mirror polished flats / small parts, and sandblasted rounds. I still like them. They have the same stippling.

But I won't mirror polish again - it is way too much work. Just getting a good match with the slides will be enough work this time!



It really isn't a true border. I stippled inside a template made of 1/16" plate that closely fits the front strap. The border just sort of takes shape if you're careful. It takes time to get the template just right, but worth it I think.

Meantime I've a stainless pair to start on - this time with Caspian slides, I hope they spec out better than the Colt / Caspian combo did! Those guns were a *** to get right. I'm really beginning to wonder about these frames. I know it almost heresy to say it, but I'm beginning to wonder if they have the entire mag well too far forward.

LOL. A lot women have come and gone - I'm keeping this one!

[loner42]

gbw, Just read this entire post and all i can say is, Well Done !!

I would be proud to own either of those irons........

I have a question about the stippling. It looks like the outer edge of the border is proud of the frame. Is this correct or is it just an illusion?
If it is, how did you do it? i understand the template aspect, but it's the outside i'm wondering about. Also what did you use for a stippling tool if you don't mind me asking?

Hope you gave yourself alot of attaboys , cause you did an excellent job considering what you had to work with and the problems you encountered...

[gbw]

Hi Loner:

Thanks for the nice words. I’m very pleased with how the guns came out. If you read the whole thread then you know 1911Tuner & Company gave me a lot of help.

I’ve tried all of the other grip treatments, checkering, serrating, rubber, etc., the stippled finish feels best by far to me and gives good slip resistance.

Below is photo of my stippling setup. If it looks home made, well, it is. (The vise must be securely clamped to the table).

The stippling is done the old/hard way, with a punch and hammer. It takes about an hour.

It’s a good idea to practice on some scrap first, using different power hammer blows and different punch tip sharpness til you get the texture you’re happiest with.

The edge of the stippling occurs naturally – it is raised a bit, but only to the extent that any stipple hit produces a ‘crater’ with raised edges.

The template must fit the front strap closely – the pictured fit is marginal, but the clamps (normally I use 2), were not tightened for the photo.

Hold the punch at the same angle when up against the edge of the template and put the punches very close together. Be careful not to let the punch go up under the template. I have to go around the perimeter several times to get the ‘border’ effect.

The punch is just a standard center punch, about 6” long (I don’t recall the size #). The point is ground down to reach into the template. Be careful not to get it too hot while grinding or you’ll anneal it, it will become too soft to use.

Making the template is a job. I heated the plate then bent it around a piece of plate – I think the size was 5/8” shaped to match the front strap. I think the heating / bending would go just as well around a piece of roundbar. Then cut the opening. I used a ½” drill to begin, then it’s just filing and test fitting the template, tracing the outline on the frame till you have it the size you want and perfectly centered.

The top of the template must be very thin to get the stippling high up under the trigger guard – this makes it a little flexible and you have to be careful when you put the template on the frame that it goes on square. It’s easy to flex it out of square.

After all stippling is done, before removing the template, I sandblast the stippled area. I use a home air compressor, as $12 Wal-Mart sandblaster, and a bag of play sand. This smooths out the stippling just a bit, roughens it, and gives the final feel that I like.

HTH

Good luck.

[loner42]

gbw, thanks for the tips and the pics, and once again very nice work............