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Thread: Sig Sauer P-226 Rail by Tokyo Marui

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    29th May 2004
    Athens, Greece, Earth
    Posts liked by others
    Blog Entries

    Sig Sauer P-226 Rail by Tokyo Marui


    Ever since I remember myself, I always loved guns. I can't remember a period in my life, as a kid, that I didn't have at least one toy gun. Later on, as I grew up, airguns were always part of my hobbies. It was not until I was about 30 years old, that I found out how I could legally own a real pistol in Greece.

    As soon as I managed to meet the criteria for getting my own pistol (registered in a shooting club as an athlete, participate in two matches with real firearms owned by my club etc) I applied for my license to the Greek Police.
    That's when the search begun. I spend about a week visiting every gunshop in Athens, trying to find the perfect pistol for me. I must have tried over 20 pistols and revolvers (mainly pistols), trying to find the best. At the end, I selected the Sig Sauer P-226, which was considered by every knowledgeable (or semi-knowledgeable) person of that era, to be a fine pistol.

    The Greek police was kind enough to issue my gun license, in a few days, so with the license in hand, I visited my friendly gunshop to get my P-226. I still remember the excitement of opening the yellow, carton box and lifting the pistol from its foam container.

    Since that day, the P-226 had served me well for years, and I was not going to sell it, if it was not for the Greek laws, which don't allow us unlimited number of pistols. But until I let it go, it had never given me the slightest problem. Quite accurate and reliable to the point of being ... boring.

    When I saw the Tokyo Marui Sig Sauer P-226, in Airsoft Extreme's site, I just had to have one, if only to refresh my memories. The nice folks at Airsoft Extreme were kind enough to oblige me, and here is the Tokyo Marui (TM) P-226 they send me.


    Here is the box, in which the TM Sig Sauer P-226 Rail pistol came. Nicely decorated with pictures of the pistol, contrary to the unadorned boxes of other manufacturers.

    Inside the box, there were the usuals, the pistol and its magazine, an instructions leaflet in Japanese, a safety warnings leaflet, some small targets, a barrel cleaning rod and the usual small bag of BBs. I looked at the pistol, and memories started coming, from some 15 years ago.

    The chunky looks of the P-226 were exactly as I remembered them.

    The sheet steel slide was very much like the original, only ... plastic, but horror of horrors, some letters from the Sig Sauer logo were .... erased with a soldering iron.

    I assume that this happened for pattents reasons, so I understand why Airsoft Extreme did that, but gush, was I dissappointed! The same thing was done on the Sig Sauer logo, on the right grip panel! I hate pattents!

    After I calmed down from this shock, I examined the rest of the pistol. The orange paint at the muzzle end of the slide had to go, and it was easily removed with some alcohol, some cotton and some ... rubbing. Ok, at least this stupid thing was corrected. The rest if the inscriptions on the pistol are very nice but those damaged areas kept bothering me. Oh well, nothing I could do about them, so I had to put that behind me.

    The pistol immitates a newer variation of the P-226 than my old pistol, so it comes with the newer grips that Sig Sauer is using on the P-226 now.

    These grips are made of plastic which is stippled to provide a secure gripping surface, on the two sides as well as the backstrap. The stippling is not very profound, so it is quite serviceable in normal conditions, but I do not know how well it will perform in sweaty hands.

    The big grip with the serrated front strap felt very familiar and all the controls are in the normal (for a P-226) places. These are, from the rear of the pistol and moving to the front, the slide stop, the decocker and the take-down lever, as well as the mag release button.

    With the exception of the take-down lever, all can be reached by the thumb of your right hand, while the pistol is held in the normal shooting position (and my fingers are not exceptionally long). Ergonomics was always the P-226 strength.

    A difference from my old P-226, is that the take-down lever is now something more than a piece of steel with some serrations, for the 1911 users, it looks like a thicker and shorter slide release. I like it!

    The trigger is exactly the same as the original, even though if memory serves me right, the real pistol had a serrated trigger. The airsoft replica has a smooth one, which is fine for ... combat usage.

    The P-226 is a typical double action pistol, meaning that the trigger can cock and release the hammer, or you can cock it yourself and use the trigger to release it. With the hammer cocked, if you decide not to shoot, you can safely lower it, by using the decocking lever. I still remember my initial feeling when I saw the P-226 for the first time: "What on earth is that thing? It looks like a coat hanger only upside-down, couldn't they make it more nice-looking?".

    Well, the decocker is still as ugly as I remember it, but the important thing is that TM has it working like the one on the real gun. In other words, if the hammer is cocked, pressing the decocker down, safely lowers the hammer in its rest position. Or, to be more precise, in the case of this airsoft pistol, it lowers the hammer to something that looks like the half-cock position of a 1911. Not all the way to the front, but slightly cocked. This is the same position the real P-226 hammer rests. On the replica, there is another position, further forward, which almost conceals the hammer, leaving a very small piece of its spure showing. I do not know why TM created two hammer rest positions, but that's how the pistol is and strangely enough, the double action of the trigger can cock the hammer from either of them. Here are the three hammer positions:

    This is the full-forward position. That's where the hammer falls if you pull the trigger without a loaded magazine in place.

    That's the intermediate position, where the hammer comes to, when you decock the pistol.

    And this is the fully-cocked position.

    Staying with the trigger, this pistol has the worst trigger I've ever tried on an Airsoft pistol. Double action is not very heavy (just right if my memories of the real gun are correct) but you can feel some ... plastic rubbing in there, I do not know where the rubbing happens, most probably in the trigger pin, but it is there. Also, there is no clear let-off point, where the sear breaks. The single action is a long mushy pull and then, all of a sudden the sear goes and the shot is fired. But it's ... an agonizing pull, you do not feel anything, no difference what's so ever from the moment you start squeezing, until the sear releases the hammer and fires the BB. The trigger in my real P-226 was crisp and sharp, not like this at all, so TM have missed something very important on this pistol. Not impressed, but then I am a hard customer on this one, having great memories from the real gun!

    Another difference between my old P-226 and this one, is that this replica comes with a light rail machined in its dust cover, like the newest Sig Sauer Rail pistols. I tried attaching an M-3 flashlight clone, and it works like a charm. Good point!

    The sights of the pistol are very much like the real ones. Actually, they are very much like the real Sig Sauer tritium sights, only they do not have any tritium vials.

    This brought back some more memories, of many years ago. I was in Lowell MA, for some business meetings, and I drove from there to Exeter NH (some 4 hours going back and forth) in pooring rain, to get a set of tritium sights for the P-226, and a sight adjustement tool. The person who took it upon himself to help me back them, was their Academy Manager, unfortunatelly I no longer remember his name. He couldn't believe the crazy Greek who drove in the middle of that rain storm, just to get those sights. He was kind enough to give me a Sig Sauer cap and some other bits and pieces. Anyhow, the sights of this airsoft, are like the tritium sights that I got back then, only they have plain three-dots, instead of tritium vials.

    Finally, the whole appearance of the pistol, is not far from the real one. If memory serves me right, the real P-226 had two different colors. The slide, which was matte black (blue steel back then, stainless steel covered in what Sigarms calls "Nitron" now), while the aluminum anodized frame had a different hue, more shiny than the slide. Well, in this respect, the TM P-226 is of a uniform color, which is very much like the color of the Nitron coating used in the real pistols.

    The grip of the pistol is thicker than that of a single stack 1911, but not by much, and not enough to make handling difficult. My hands are not large, still I can handle the pistol fine, reaching all controls without shifting my grip.

    Finally, the feeling you get from the pistol is ... in one word, plasticky. I was hoping that TM would do better than that in this domain, but this (and the trigger) were the two areas which disappoint me with this gun. There are metallic frame/slide sets in in the market, so the ... plasticky feeling can be corrected, but these sets are more expensive than the TM pistol itself. So, be warned, if you want a P-226, you'll have to live with the plastic feeling or invest in a metallic set.

    In the next page, you can read how to disassemble the pistol and our shooting tests results.


    Anyone who is familiar with the P-226 (or any other Sig Sauer for that matter) will have no trouble stripping this pistol. The slide is pulled back and while held at its rearmost position, the take-down lever is rotated clockwise by 90 degrees. The slide can then be pushed forward and removed from the frame.

    Turn the slide upside down and grab the recoil spring guide assembly. Push it forward and lift it from the slide. Be careful, there is a small pin at its rear end, which goes inside a hole in the lower part of the barrel, which has to come out of its hole, before the guide rod assembly can be removed.

    With the recoil spring guide removed, you can now push the barrel forward to release it from the breechface (or rather the cylinder as that part is called in an airsoft pistol) and lift it from the rear of the slide.

    That's it, your pistol is now stripped in its major parts.

    While the barrel is out, you can see at its side, the adjustable hop-up mechanism.

    Most recent Airsoft pistols which hit the market today, allow the adjustement of the hop-up, from the outside of the pistol. It's a pity that TM didn't follow this path, it is a pain to strip the pistol to adjust the hop-up.

    Reassembly is the reverse procedure. Insert the barrel in the slide and push it all the way back, until it touches the breechface. Then insert the recoil spring guide assembly (spring and guide) by entering the front of the guide rod, in the hole in the front of the slide and resting its rear at the lower end of the barrel, with the small pin going into its hole. Insert the slide on the frame and push it all the way to the rear, and rotate the take-down lever to the upper position, parallel to the slide. That's it.

    A couple of notes here, the TM method of disassembly is not exactly the same as for the real P-226. In the real pistol, the take-down lever cannot be rotated to its disassembly position, without the slide being pulled fully to the rear. On the TM version, the take-down lever can be turned, with the slide being in any position. Also, another difference from the original, is that TM has incorporated a safety in the pistol. If you push the take-down lever from the right side of the frame, towards the left, the trigger of the pistol is locked and it cannot be fired. These minor discrepancies do not diminish the authenticity of the pistol, as they are very unobtrusive.


    Given the mushy trigger, I approached this pistol with some skepticism, when I was preparing to shoot it. However, the results were not bad at all. Here is one of the best groups I fired.

    As you can see, there are four rounds 0.75" center to center, and the fifth one opened that group up to 1.75". Darn I hate my aging eyes.

    Overall quite good accuracy for a ... fighting handgun (all tests are shot from a braced position at 10 m distance).

    Poor Man's Chrono Test

    The Sig Sauer P-226 punched the coke can, broke a hole at the other side, but failed to exit. Thus the muzzle velocity is estimated at something between 310 and 350 fps.


    I liked the Sig Sauer. It brought back memories from the past, and reminded me of my first real pistol. Its performance was quite acceptable for a fighting pistol and if the user does his job this gun is up to the task. I liked the way TM has implemented the decocker, exactly like on a real P-226 (or any other Sig Sauer pistol). The light rail makes it suitable for night skirmishing operations, so it's a bonus. If only the letters were not smoothed out like that!

    At about 150 US$ it's a very nice pistol, for those who want to play Airsoft, or for the real P-226 owners who want to practice in the convenience of their home.

    Here is a picture I dug up from some years ago, with me shooting the real P-226. You can see the second case is in the air, before the first one has touched the ground (to the left and a little higher than my right knee). The holster is a Bianchi, I wish I still have it, I could use it with the TM pistol, but I sold it together with the gun.


    Accuracy: 3
    Upgradeability: 4
    Training Capability: 5
    Realism: 5
    Quality: 4
    Power: 2

    Overall: 23

    Note on Gas

    With all Japanese pistols such as this Tokyo Marui, you are supposed to use the HFC 134A gas. Using Green gas in them, will cause problems, premature wear etc. HFC 134A is giving slightly less performance (lower BB speed), when compared to Green Gas. Green Gas should not be used in unaltered pistols made in Japan.

    With the above warning noted, I have to admit that I am testing all pistols using ... propane. Green Gas is in reality propane, with a little silicone oil added, to lubricate the pistols. So instead of paying for Green Gas, I bought a canister of propane, like the ones sold in US for the camping stoves, or flame torches, and a special valve adaptor, which allows me to use the much cheaper propane instead of Green Gas. In this site, you can read more on this issue:


    The reason I am ignoring the manufacturer's recommendation, as far as gas is concerned, is two-fold. First, I want to have consistent environment for all the tests (some of the pistols we'll test here use HFC 134A, some use Green Gas), and second it's plain difficult to find HFC 134A in Greece. Also, I plan to upgrade all the standard pistols (like this one) so that it is safe to use Green Gas (and thus propane) with them. While this is relatively easy with the Western Arms pistols, the only way this Tokyo Marui can be upgraded to propane, is with a metallic frame and slide set, which are kind of expensive.

    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    Last edited by John; 13th September 2008 at 08:25.

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