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Thread: Colt Series 80 Info

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  1. #11
    Join Date
    7th September 2004
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    11
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    0

    Tuner, Silver and SMM

    Thank you all for your responses. I have the guide rod in and find it is easier to install second piece after barrel bushing and recoil plunger is in place. Thanks for the help. Tuner, thank you for the in depth info on the 70 vs 80. I am actually looking at it more from a collectable stand point. My 1991A1 works great, plus I have Charles Daly EMS( if I ever get it back from the factory) for carry. Plus another dozen or so. I do not think having a carry piece is the problem. It is great to jump on here and read and learn more about this stuff. Thanks again to all.
    Bladeplayer

  2. #12
    Join Date
    7th September 2004
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    11
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    To Tuner and Silver and gang

    One last question. Yeah right! Anyway, I just picked up a set of Novak low profile white outline rear and front sights. I can change the rear without difficulty, I am apprehensive about the front post. I do not want to cause any damage to the slide. Have you ever done this before? Does it pop right off my 1991 or do I need a smith to do this? Also, any type of adhesive or machining to attach the front post, not even sure how to remove the front one. I am hoping it is easier and less intimidating than it seems. Thanks. Bladeplayer

  3. #13
    Join Date
    19th September 2004
    Location
    Upstate South Carolina
    Posts
    6
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    Staked in front sight

    The front sight is not as hard as it looks. There are some things you need to complete the job: Front sight staking tool (Brownells $30), padded bench vise , Dremel tool, a small punch and Hammer. The 1991 should have a wide tendon front sight. Place the slide in the padded vise upside down,front of the slide facing you. using the dremel with a grinding bit and gently grind away the flared part of the bottom of the sight tendon. Next take the punch and tap the old sight out from the underside. Install new sight using using the staking tool. Place the new sight in the matching hole in the slide. Place the slide top side down on a firm surface ( I use a piece of stainless steel covered with a piece of leather) , take the staking tool and hammer, flare out the bottom of the new sight to secure it. Last take the dremel tool and smooth out the bottom where you've flared the sight so the barrel bushing will fit without any interference. The staking tool comes with some good directions. I have installed about 6 so far, I was scared on the first one but its not that bad, just take your time so you don't scar the slide with anything. I hope this helps and makes sense.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    7th September 2004
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    11
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    Thanks Silver

    Wow, thanks. I will let you know how I make out. I am glad the rear is easier. Bladeplayer

  5. #15
    Join Date
    3rd October 2004
    Posts
    2
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    push pin?

    I understand how the series 80 system works, but there is only one mystery to me. If the firing pin is locked buy the lock/plunger, why can I move the firing pin in with my finger? is it because of the inertia firing pin design?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    5th June 2004
    Location
    Youngstown, OH
    Posts
    2,648
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    2

    Smile

    Suprchrgr:

    Are you seeing a lot of movement, or just a little play?

    If you're getting a lot of play, you might want to check and see if the plunger is actually there.... Some people remove these things.

    It's not, I think, a solid lock. It just restricts movement so it won't move very far. If it was solid, it'd be likely to screw up the trigger action (even more). It's got to have a lot of slop in it.
    Stu.
    (Why write a quick note when you can write a novel?)
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒE
    יזכר לא עד פעם

  7. #17
    Join Date
    1st June 2004
    Location
    Lexington, North Carolina...or
    Posts
    11,260
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    29

    Firing Pin Movement

    Howdy,

    With the plunger in place and everything working like it should, the firing pin will move just about enough to sit flush with the firing pin stop. You can check the function easily.

    Remove the slide and take the barrel out of it. Lay the slide on a table and
    push in on the firing pin with a suitable tool...A nail that is smaller than the
    hole in the firing pin stop plate will do...Watch the breechface to see if the pin comes through. If it does, the firing pin isn't being blocked. If it doesn't come through, you're golden.

    Luck!

    Tuner

  8. #18
    Join Date
    31st July 2004
    Location
    new england
    Posts
    8
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    0

    80 series problem

    i cant seem to get a wilson drop-in grips safety to work in my 10mm.
    it working in all my other 1911s but not my delta elite . and put any factory
    grips safety and they work right . put in the wilson in and pull the trigger with out grip safety being used and the hammer falls . help please. or should i just buy a king grip safety . thanks for the help howie

  9. #19
    Join Date
    14th June 2004
    Location
    SW Wa
    Posts
    585
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    Although it is called a "drop-in" it needs to be fitted to the gun it is going to be used in ONLY.
    Sounds like yours has been fitted to another gun and the tip of the trigger/sear block is too short/been filed off too much.
    Time for a new one to fit to your Delta.
    Jeff
    Blessed are the bewildered for they won't notice--Tweak

  10. #20
    Join Date
    31st July 2004
    Location
    new england
    Posts
    8
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    0

    grip safety

    it was new i bought to put in the delta .wright from the bag it wont work
    so i try it in some of my other 1911 gi type and it worked ? had the same problem with 1911-1 compact. i bought a king for my compact and it work wright from the bag maybe i need to send out the frame and have it fitted ???? have wilson drop-in in
    about 4 other and they look and work great any body know what the problem is ? the help would be great thanks howie

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