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Thread: Realism: Trigger, thumb safety, hammer/main spring/recoil spring, etc

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  1. #1
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    Realism: Trigger, thumb safety, hammer/main spring/recoil spring, etc

    Hello,

    Considering my age and my local laws, there will still be some time before I can own a real 1911. I figure I can spend those years familiarising myself properly with it. However, I have some questions regarding the realism of the airsoft guns;

    The trigger. How is the trigger break? Is it heavy and mushy, so that I'll end up jerking the trigger of a real 1911? I'd rather not be dry-practicing a shoddy trigger and then spend years grinding down that malpractice.

    The thumb safety. Does it click on and off like the real one or is it much lighter? Another area of the draw which could be ruined if I practice with an easy safety.

    The hammer/main spring/recoil spring. Is the cocking motion even close to being as heavy as the real one? Again, I'll probably be quite a spectacle trying to ready a real 1911 after cocking a plastic pistol for two years if it's not close.

    edit: More importantly, given that most of those will probably get a negative response, is it possible to change this for the better with more metal parts and less plastic/pot metal?
    Last edited by joffe; 8th January 2008 at 11:11.


  2. #2
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    Hi Joffe! Although I don't yet own an airsoft gun. From what I've read on the forums, the gun is quite comparable by look and feel (upgradable metal parts = similar weight). These links might help you out if you haven't already read these threads:

    http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=38578 Review of TM 1911 that covers some of the issues you have asked


    http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=7350 Review of Different companies by John

    http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=39066 Supposedly comparable trigger pull....hmmm

    There are many more threads that may help, just look around or do a search, and hopefully the links I gave will be a good start. I have been considering getting an airsoft pistol, but whenever I see the price it makes me get that really empty...especially inside my wallet pocket....

    Anyway, with the overall advantage of training in terms of "dry firing" and firing with the pellets, training, and tactics really are influencing my decision to invest in getting one.

    Hope this helps! Good luck on your next purchase!
    I do not trust in my bow, my sword does not bring me victory; but you give us victory over our enemies, you put our adversaries to shame. - Psalms 44:6-7
    Last edited by CMDB; 9th January 2008 at 22:15.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by joffe
    Hello,

    Considering my age and my local laws, there will still be some time before I can own a real 1911. I figure I can spend those years familiarising myself properly with it. However, I have some questions regarding the realism of the airsoft guns;

    The trigger. How is the trigger break? Is it heavy and mushy, so that I'll end up jerking the trigger of a real 1911? I'd rather not be dry-practicing a shoddy trigger and then spend years grinding down that malpractice.
    So far the trigger pull on all the airsoft 1911s I've tried has been very light. Much lighter than a real pistol. Usually less than 3 lbs. And it is usually very crisp. I would rather have a heavier trigger, but I have never tried to make it heavier, may be I should try it some day.


    Quote Originally Posted by joffe
    The thumb safety. Does it click on and off like the real one or is it much lighter? Another area of the draw which could be ruined if I practice with an easy safety.
    Again, usually the safety action is lighter in these pistols. Not by much, but it is lighter. Thank God this can be fixed (in some pistols) by replacing the plungers spring with one from a real 1911 (if it fits in the plunger tube), or by "re-shaping" the safety a little, in the area where the safety plunger contacts it.


    Quote Originally Posted by joffe
    The hammer/main spring/recoil spring. Is the cocking motion even close to being as heavy as the real one? Again, I'll probably be quite a spectacle trying to ready a real 1911 after cocking a plastic pistol for two years if it's not close.
    Again, no, there is no way the gas could cycle the slide of the airsoft pistol, if the recoil spring used was as heavy as the real one. Much lighter, but I do not find this to be objectionable.

    Quote Originally Posted by joffe
    edit: More importantly, given that most of those will probably get a negative response, is it possible to change this for the better with more metal parts and less plastic/pot metal?
    I've never tried using real parts on an airsoft pistol. Maybe some day.
    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

  4. #4
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    Is one brand of airsoft 1911 better than the others?

  5. #5
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    Well, it all depends on what you mean better.

    The latest Western Arms pistol are definitely not as good as the SCW2 ones, which by themselves were better than the SCW guns and the Magna-something guns.

    The Tokyo Marui 1911A1 I tried was (as far as I can tell), as good as the Western Arms SCW2 guns I've tried. And with a price about 50% lower than the WA pistols, it is a bargain. You can build a metal frame/slide/outer barrel 1911, based on the TM pistol, with about the same money the most expensive WA 1911s (plastic ones) cost.

    So, it's all in the details. As far as I can see, the TM is becoming the base for more conversions that you can think. I am actually waiting for one now, to make a Delta Elite pistol out of. You will see its review here soon.
    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

  6. #6
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    Thank you.

  7. #7
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    What differentiates a SCW2 from SCW? What do they stand for? Sorry for my ignorance...
    I do not trust in my bow, my sword does not bring me victory; but you give us victory over our enemies, you put our adversaries to shame. - Psalms 44:6-7

  8. #8
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    Basically SCW stands for Sebuya Custom Work (or something like that).

    Initially that meant the most expensive Western Arms pistols, in contrast to what were known as the "Magna" style pistols, which were the cheaper ones in their line. The SCW pistols were usually "heavy-weight", meaning they weighted more or less the same as the real pistol they imitated.

    It then became a term describing the firing mechanism used in the pistols (or so I think). The SCW2 was an evolution of the SCW firing mechanism, while still meaning the better pistols in WA line. Some believe these were the best pistols WA ever produced. Finally we have SCW3, which is again supposed to be another evolution in the firing mechanism, but for some people it is a step backwards, the mechanism is no better than the one it replaced. However, there is some confusion lately because Western Arms is now using the SCW3 firing mechanism not only in their most expensive pistols but also in their lower end of the line ones. For example, the Officers I got and used as a base for customization, is an SCW3 pistol, but it is not one of the most expensive WA ones and it is very lightweight. Typically, an SCW pistol had a hop-up adjustment but that is not necessarily true with the SCW3 guns. Western Arms is doing all they can to mix us up.
    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

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