John asked me to write up a list of the most common/most likely malfunctions with the 1911 pistol. This will basically be no more than a compilation of what's already been covered in various threads and posts...but it'll be in one place, which will negate having to search through a gazillion lines in order to find an answer. Since this list can get pretty involved and lengthy in each description, it will be necessary to begin a new post for each description. I'll ask everybody to hold comments until it's done, for the sake of a smooth flow.
Most functional problems with the 1911 platform are simple. Can't remember how many times I've written that. It was true in 1912, and it's true today. Most malfunctions are also simple to cure. The trick is in figuring out whether we have one of those problems that falls into the simple category, and which fall on the Hair-Pullin'/Head-Bangin' side of the page.
The Failure to Feed:
This one seems to plague 1911 aficianados more than any other single complaint. First, we have to determine exactly what a failure to feed is. Some pistols have a stoppage in which the round is partially chambered with the slide held out of full battery to varying degrees. This is not a failure to feed, although it's often used to describe the malfunction. "Jam" is another nondescript term that indicaes the pistol incurred a stoppage...but IS nondescript. True jams are pretty rare. It's most often a simple stoppage that can be cleared quickly, while jams are more labor/time intensive.
If the round doesn't make it to the chamber...it's a failure to feed. If it gets into the chamber...even a little...it's a failure to go to/return to battery. Know the difference.
Most failures to feed are caused by the magazine, assuming an in-spec feed and barrel ramp. The most common of failures to feed is the good old "Nose-Dive" into the feed ramp. This is a magazine issue in 99.9% of the instances. Specifcally, a magazine SPRING issue, especially if seen most often on the top round or two in the magazine. If it occurs as the magazine's capacity drops...say, on the last 2-3 rounds...it's most likely the follower angle, or a combination of both.
The second most-often seen FTF is the Bolt-Over Base failure. Sometimes referred to as the "Rideover Failure to Feed" the two terms...like failure to feed and failure to go to battery...aren't the same. The BOB FTF usually produces a live-round stovepipe, with the bullet nose pointing skyward, and the side of the case caught between the slide and barrel hood. This can have varying degrees of cartridge exposed above the breechface...from bullet just a little above...to nearly the whole round standing tall, with the case pinched near the rim. The full "Rideover FTF" is a whole 'nother smoke. The BOB FTF is quick and easy to clear. The RO FTF will very often produce a true jam. In both malfunctions, the magazine spring is most often the cause, with a damaged or malformed magazine body running a close second.
Next on the list of causes is the feed ramp angle. This angle is correctly closely held in both dimension and tolerance. 31 degrees is ideal, with a + 30 minute (half degree) minus zero.
The feed ramp should be fairly smooth, with no deep toolmarks or defects that could "bite" into the bullet material and cause it to hang up. The feed ramp geometry is critical..though if a little out of spec, it can be compensated in most cases. Generally speaking, it's better for the ramp to be a little steep than a little shallow. Or...another way...30 degrees is better than 32. The steeper angle allows for the ramp to be altered a bit, while too shallow doesn't. You can always take a little material off...but it's tough to add material.
The ramp should be cleanly contoured, with a distinct corner at the top. Here is where the average kitchen-table tinkerer gets into trouble by polishing the feed ramp. If he destroys that corner..which he often does, either by accident or intentionally...it accomplishes the same thing as having a too-shallow ramp. Namely, it directs the bullet nose into the barrel ramp...producing the maddening 3-Point Jam. When that happens, our Dremel Jockey...not realizing that his work has caused the problem...redoubles his efforts and polishes more aggressively. Then...seeing no positive results...turns his attention to the barrel ramp. It goes downhill from there. He may well get the gun to feed, but he will very likely lose critical case head support in the process, with bulged or even blown cases as a distinct possibility.
Suspect the magazine FIRST. Don't cut, file, grind, sand, lap, or polish anything until you've eliminated the first suspect...and even then...don't do it until you've explored other possibilities.
Some failures to feed are the fault of the extractor. Few...but still possible...and remember that...just because a magazine is new...that's no guarantee that it's good. There are a good many high-quality magazines around that...even though they work well in many pistols...often don't do so well in others. Every magazine marketer has his or her own ideas as to what's best as far as lip design and release timing is concerned...and there are very often subtle differences that escape the notice of those who don't understand what to look for. Very often, the cure will lie in one of these subtle differences. I've seen it happen just like that more times than I can remember...and I've "fixed" more pistols with a good magazine than I have by any other single exercise. From "Jammin' Jenny" to "Timex Watch" with a 20-dollar magazine.
As in the medical profession...If you can cure the patient without surgery, it's better to do that than to start cuttin' on him just to see if it helps.
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