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Thread: Link Fitting - Voice of Experience Needed

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  1. #21
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    1st June 2004
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    Lexington, North Carolina...or
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    Lena?

    John...if you send Lena, you can forget anything pertaining to 1911 pistols from me for about a year.

    Going a little further...now that I have my brain cleared...The advertised link
    on-center dimensions are nominal, and have a tolerance of +/- .0005 inch, which means that with two given links, there can be a maximum difference of .001 inch. Also, other brands besides Wilson are offered in .003 increments that will allow you to find one that will effect an exact fit most of the time. The downside is that you'll either have to keep a large inventory on hand...or determine exactly what you need and order...and even those have that +/- tolerance...so be prepared to adjust the link slightly by elongating the large hole in one end or the other.

    Opening the top of the hole...closest to the lug...doesn't change linkdown timing. Opening it in the lower half delays it in the same way as a longer link.
    Generally speaking...if it needs to be opened in the lower end, I much prefer to step up to a longer one, unless the amount needed is .002 inch or less... and I try to limit opening the top to a maximum of about .003 inch, though .005 or more isn't out of the question...IF...the link correctly times the barrel. As a rule, if it needs to be adjusted more than .003 inch, you probably either need a shorter link, or the lower lug dimension is wrong for correct vertical lug engagement. Opening the top doesn't really have a negative downside since it neither changes barrel timing, nor does that area of the link come under any tensile stresses.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    29th May 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1911Tuner
    John...if you send Lena, you can forget anything pertaining to 1911 pistols from me for about a year.
    That won't bother me a bit, as long as the exchange includes the right number and the right type of 1911s. I am sure all of yours work perfectly, so it's the other members that should worry about your absence, LORL

    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

  3. #23
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    1st June 2004
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    Absence

    That's cold, John...Cold! Just for that, you only get the Rand and one Union Switch...

  4. #24
    Join Date
    20th November 2005
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    Western, KY
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    Lazarus,

    Good advice in post 15 with one tiny nitpick regarding the use of a spent shell casing to center the FP hole. I would look through the muzzle end of the barrel instead of the firing pin tunnel. The reason for this is that the primer hole in the shell casing is much larger than the firing pin hole in some slides (Springfield, for example). If you are looking through the FP tunnel in one of these slides, when the top of the hole in the shell casing is aligned with the top of the FP hole it will appear that these two holes are aligned. Now, if you turn the slide around and look through the muzzle you will see that these two holes are eccentric to one another.

    Don't ask me how I found out about this!!!!!

    Greg
    I never learned anything while talking.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    29th July 2006
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    Ok, then.

    Good point, Greg. In this particular case I'm dealing with a 9mm size f.p. port (tiny hole), which seems to be the same size as the priming port in the spent shell. Also, the smaller 9mm f.p. can be used to double check the alignment by pushing it forward into the case. With the larger standard f.p. your method would make more sense.

    -L
    "Do not fix that which is not broken."

  6. #26
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    14th December 2005
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    I like the Brownells tool to center the bore with the firing pin port. It will align both sizes of firing pins with the bore. Of course with my eyesight, every little bit of help is welcomed.
    xxxxxx Iron bottom sez; Don't let your Rat Terrier hang around with college boys.

  7. #27
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    29th July 2006
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    Think about this

    Kuhnhausen's tool, and the one sold by Brownells are useful to evaluate the raw slide dimensions. For a given slide, you will practically need to turn your own piece of brass stock to just fit. The result will indicate whether or not the firing pin port has been drilled at approximately the correct place in the slide. However this alignment tool will be of no use to your barrel fitting efforts because the vertical position of the barrel depends upon exactly how you fit the upper lugs. So in this case, the use of a spent shell works out pretty well.

    -L
    "Do not fix that which is not broken."

  8. #28
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    Smile

    You must be trying for the Holy Grail, Lazarus. If I can get within a few thousandths, I'm happy. But with any barrel/slide combo, the Brownell's tool will let you see if you are off in any direction. North, South, East and west.
    xxxxxx Iron bottom sez; Don't let your Rat Terrier hang around with college boys.

  9. #29
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    Center Strike

    I'll take the "For what it's Worth" category for 10!

    A dead center firing pin strike isn't one of those things that I put in the "Must have" lineup. Nice, but unnecessary except in a bullseye pistol chasing an inch at 50 yards. .010-.012 inch vertical displacement is of no practical concern, though you wouldn't want that much lateral variation. Good vertical lug engagement is more pressing. Some slide and frame specs require a barrel with slightly oversized dimensions from chamber axis to lug slot, with the lug height dimensioned from the bottom of the slot...which may be a custom-made item these days, and an expensive proposition.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    16th July 2005
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    Also, fwiw, I put a primer in the case, put slide, fp, fp stop, link, sl. stop, bushing, barrel, frame together. Coat primer with sharpie. Load EMPTY primed case right side up, so if strike is off you know which direction. Hit fp with punch and fire the primer. It all only takes about 10 minutes and you don't have to guess where it strikes. As Tuner says, a few thou vertical doesn't really matter much.

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