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Thread: Care and Maintenance of the 1911 pistol (courtesy of 1911Tuner)

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  1. #21
    Join Date
    29th May 2004
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    Mobil 1???? LoRL, you do like expensive things!

    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

  2. #22
    String Guest
      
    Quote Originally Posted by John
    Care of your M-1911
    Recoil spring replacement...2500 runds
    Firing pin spring replacement...5,000 rounds
    Sear spring replacement...10,000 rounds
    Mainspring replacement...20,000 rounds
    Plunger spring replacement...If/When needed
    Firing pin...as needed, indicated by wear or damage.
    Plunger detent pins...as needed, indicated by wear or damage.
    What is the "Sear Spring"? Is that the leaf spring?

    Sorry, I'm new to this

    Also, I've read other places that the mainspring should be changed about every 5,000 with the firing pin spring. I see you go 20,000 rounds. Never any problems I assume?

  3. #23
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    Sear spring=leaf spring.

    The main spring does not need to be changed every 5,000 or even every 10,000 rounds. Tuner's advise is good.
    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

  4. #24
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    mainspring changed? i think iv hit 15t rounds... haven't changed yet. the pencil trick still works.

    leaf spring change? how do you know when to change?

  5. #25
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    You do not. Just replace it every 10,000 rounds or so and you should be fine. Remember, springs are "maintenance items", consumables.
    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

  6. #26
    Join Date
    3rd July 2007
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    Oil in the magazines can give you a great amount of grief. I prefer a dry graphite in my mags. It doesn't attract dirt, doesn't ever get gummy and it doesn't kill primers. Yeah, it's black but it stays put once it dries.
    -watchin-

  7. #27
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    26th May 2007
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    The 50 rounds "lite clean".

    I have been shooting so much this summer that I am finding it hard to thoroughly clean my pistol after every time I shoot. Which very recently is turning out to be a quick 50 rounds per week. I hate to ever have a dirty gun though. To really detail clean the pistol after every time I shoot it can take an hour or more. With the lite clean method I still field strip the pistol and magazines, and I still use a form of CLP (Break Free or Rem Oil), Nylon M-16 tooth brush and Nylon bore brush and patches and rags, but I give a good once over and call it good. Then after I shoot it two or three times I really thoroughly clean the pistol including using bore cleaner and brass/bronse bore brush. This is a change for me. It seems to be working OK. Has anyone developed a lite clean for lite shoot approach?
    Last edited by Soft Walker; 4th July 2007 at 08:37. Reason: missing word


  8. #28
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    New York, New York
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soft Walker
    I have been shooting so much this summer that I am finding it hard to thoroughly clean my pistol after every time I shoot. Which very recently is turning out to be a quick 50 rounds per week. I hate to ever have a dirty gun though. To really detail clean the pistol after every time I shoot it can take an hour or more. With the lite clean method I still field strip the pistol and magazines, and I still use a form of CLP (Break Free or Rem Oil), Nylon M-16 tooth brush and Nylon bore brush and patches and rags, but I give a good once over and call it good. Then after I shoot it two or three times I really thoroughly clean the pistol including using bore cleaner and brass/bronse bore brush. This is a change for me. It seems to be working OK. Has anyone developed a lite clean for lite shoot approach?
    I find it easier to field strip and clean the following components with solvents such as Hoppes #9 while the gun is still warm or hot (this works for lite and especially heavy shooting):

    Slide, frame (brush with solvents generously and wipe excess) and barrel (run it through with brush a few times and leave it wet and put small pieces of target paper on both ends so it does not dry up quickly) and especially the breach face (while it's warm or hot the carbon come off much easier to a shine).

    When you are home after lite shooting, you can just wipe clean major parts and clean the barrel a few more brush stokes and patch it dry and then lube. After heavy shooting, start with the barrel by patch clean and then clean with brush and leave it wet while cleaning the slide/frame and repeat barrel cleaning process until it's clean (this way you do not waste as much time just cleaning the barrel because it take time for most of the solvents to work it's way). I rarely do a complete strip down clean nor is it really necessary until the springs in the frame needs replacement.

    Hope this helps and happy shooting!
    Paul
    Last edited by pwang; 4th July 2007 at 10:23.


  9. #29
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    I've been told to use some solvent before the oil in the breech when i shoot lead bullets. Is it correct? Here in Italy at shooting ranges you are likely forced to use simple lead bullets. I remember i red somewhere that you never have to use solvent.
    Which is the best thing to do when cleaning the barrel after shooting lead bullets?

    Thanks for attention.
    Last edited by italiancolt; 8th July 2007 at 10:23.


  10. #30
    Join Date
    29th September 2007
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    West Portsmouth, OH
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    Question Detail Strip... Video???

    I've seen maybe 3 or 4 videos on youtube and such about Field Stripping a 1911 (which, due to these and a lot of practice, I could probably do in the dark if I had to now). I'm wondering if there is a site that shows a video on how to detail strip your frame. I tried looking at the directions on M1911.org and found it somewhat daunting, and I'm afraid of taking my gun apart and not knowing how to put it back together. If I saw it done on a video I could watch and do it at the same time and if I screwed up I could watch it again and figure out what I did wrong.
    ... I'm locked and loaded with the devil in my hands ...

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