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Thread: Kimber Firing pins

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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by warmrain
    But the deal is the Kimber's safety requires the Kimber FP... It's actually a way better arrangement then the Colt Series 80. The Kimber has no effect on the trigger feel, the Colt does...
    +1
    We own several KIMBERS, one of which is not series II, we have put bunches of rounds down range with them, My wife does carry the one that is not series II, it is a PRO ELITE because that is her favorite of all and she shoots it best. But in no way have we seen any problems of any kind with the series II and can understand its use. But if a person just has to disable it, remove it and avoid any FP problem that could be caused by drag.

    RJ
    DAV LIFE MEMBER

    http://www.kygrips.com/

  2. #12
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    Most manufacturers only want to deal with one type of pin. A Series 80 pin will work fine in a Series 70 but not vice versa. If the firing pin is for both a 70 and 80, then it is like the one in the picture of the Series 80 pin.

    If you look at the pictures, it's close as to if a Series 80 pin will catch the plunger in a Kimber. I've never tried it nor know of anyone who has but I'm sure someone has before.

    Have you had problems with the safety not disengaging?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kruzr
    Most manufacturers only want to deal with one type of pin. A Series 80 pin will work fine in a Series 70 but not vice versa. If the firing pin is for both a 70 and 80, then it is like the one in the picture of the Series 80 pin.

    If you look at the pictures, it's close as to if a Series 80 pin will catch the plunger in a Kimber. I've never tried it nor know of anyone who has but I'm sure someone has before.

    Have you had problems with the safety not disengaging?
    I have had no problems with my Kimber Custom II what so ever, but I have read of several cases where the series II choked due to the roll pin in the frame failing to engage the plunger in the slide. My gun shoots great, but I don't want to give it a chance to malfunction. I don't want my life to ride on one little part that looks weak to begin with.

  4. #14
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    If one just removes the firing pin safety parts, this whole thing becomes a non-issue anyway. You take them out, and bingo, you've got a series 1 gun that uses a series 70 style firing pin perfectly.

    I've done this on Colts and Kimbers. It's never been a problem, or caused any issues. The ONLY thing is that on the Kimbers, you've gotta remove the rear sight to get the plunger out. Use a nylon punch, or a sight pusher. If you MUST use a brass punch, then put some thick card board between the punch and the sight so you don't mar up the finish of the sight or slide.

  5. #15
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    myanof,

    I understand. And personally I would prefer it if all my Kimbers were pre Series II. BTW, it is not a roll pin.

    Xshooter,

    So you just remove everything... Leave the little hole in the bottom of the slide empty? Take the puch rod out of the frame too?
    I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend.
    It only takes a second to dial 911; it could take the rest of your life for help to arrive...
    Posts are my opinion based on my experience; YMMV.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by warmrain
    myanof,

    Xshooter,

    So you just remove everything... Leave the little hole in the bottom of the slide empty? Take the puch rod out of the frame too?
    Yep, it's just that simple. With the adjustable Kimber sights, please don't forget about removing that little set screw inside the sight before you try to remove the sight. My friend Brian did, and he sheared it off with a sight pusher.
    Last edited by Xshooter; 9th April 2006 at 11:27.


  7. #17
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    I didn't mean to make this discussion so complicated. I realize I can pull the entire safety system out, but I didn't want to approach it that way. I just want to change out the firing pin for now to bypass the system and my question was can I use an Ed Brown #824 combination series 70/80 firing pin for this purpose, or do I have to use a pure series 70 pin?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by myanof
    I didn't mean to make this discussion so complicated. I realize I can pull the entire safety system out, but I didn't want to approach it that way. I just want to change out the firing pin for now to bypass the system and my question was can I use an Ed Brown #824 combination series 70/80 firing pin for this purpose, or do I have to use a pure series 70 pin?
    As I said, I don't think you can count on it defeating the block. You need a Series 70 type. You can try it and see since you already have it.
    With the push rod still installed, you won't notice a difference since it will still release the FP safety.
    Last edited by Kruzr; 9th April 2006 at 23:20.


  9. #19
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    If you remove the Swartz system parts, you should probably consider a Titanium FP and extra power FP spring to make it more safe if dropped.
    Walt

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kruzr
    As I said, I don't think you can count on it defeating the block. You need a Series 70 type. You can try it and see since you already have it.
    With the push rod still installed, you won't notice a difference since it will still release the FP safety.
    Install a series 70 or 80 firing pin in a Kimber with Schwarts FP block system and without squeezing the grip safety push the pin with a punch or paper clip and you will see there is no FP block. There is a sllight drag on the pin, but no block.
    Last edited by myanof; 10th May 2007 at 10:23.


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