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Thread: Kimber Firing pins

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  1. #1
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    The firing pin in a Kimber Series II is different than a Series 80 pin. The cut out is located differently. A Series 70 pin will defeat the FP block all together. The FP is proprietary to Kimbers. If you need a new FP, give Kimber a call and tell them about the problem. They might send you a new one.
    A Series 80 FP and a Kimber Series II:

    A Series 70 pin has no little cut-out. The diameter is the same through the "fat" part. Like this:
    Last edited by Kruzr; 29th March 2006 at 23:03.


  2. #2
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Kruzr
    ...The firing pin in a Kimber Series II is different than a Series 80 pin. The cut out is located differently. A Series 70 pin will defeat the FP block all together...
    All this talk from folks who want to remove the Series II parts from their pistols and which parts need to be removed, etc...

    This makes it sound like all you need to do to defeat the Series II safety (the goal being to make the pistol more reliable) is to replace the FP with a Series 70?

    BTW, the small shelf on the Kimber FP (nearest the pointy end) looks like it would work harden, become brittle and eventually break after serious dry firing?! That little shelf as got to cause the FP to abruptly stop if there is not round or snap cap in place?
    I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend.
    It only takes a second to dial 911; it could take the rest of your life for help to arrive...
    Posts are my opinion based on my experience; YMMV.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by warmrain
    All this talk from folks who want to remove the Series II parts from their pistols and which parts need to be removed, etc...

    This makes it sound like all you need to do to defeat the Series II safety (the goal being to make the pistol more reliable) is to replace the FP with a Series 70?

    BTW, the small shelf on the Kimber FP (nearest the pointy end) looks like it would work harden, become brittle and eventually break after serious dry firing?! That little shelf as got to cause the FP to abruptly stop if there is not round or snap cap in place?
    I dry fired my Gov't Kimber countless times when I first got it. I used to practice balancing an empty shell on the front sight and pulling the trigger. Add this to the 32K or so rounds through it and I'd say I've dropped the trigger well in excess of 100K times without any breakages. I never used snapcaps. The little shelf is buffered by the spring.

    You can defeat the Series II with the 70 type FP but it will drag a little. In my case, I've never had a problem with a Series II safety on either of my Kimbers or any others I've shot (many, many.) So to me, to add drag to the firing pin isn't necessarily adding reliablity.

  4. #4
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    I too have only Series 80 Colts and Series II Kimbers. I also don't have an (what seems in some cases purely emotional) issue with those safeties either. Thanks for the feedback!
    I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend.
    It only takes a second to dial 911; it could take the rest of your life for help to arrive...
    Posts are my opinion based on my experience; YMMV.

  5. #5
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    I bought an Ed Brown Heavy Duty Firing Pin #824 for 1911 style Pistols that fits Series 70 and Series 80. Is this OK to defeat the Schwarts System or does it have to be a pure Series 70 pin? Thanks

  6. #6
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    There may be better ways... It has been heavily discussed in other threads... I like simple solutions, but I'm not sure about the "draging" parts issue...
    I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend.
    It only takes a second to dial 911; it could take the rest of your life for help to arrive...
    Posts are my opinion based on my experience; YMMV.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by warmrain
    There may be better ways... It has been heavily discussed in other threads... I like simple solutions, but I'm not sure about the "draging" parts issue...
    Warmrain, thanks for answering, but you didn't address my question about which pin is OK.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by myanof
    Warmrain, thanks for answering, but you didn't address my question about which pin is OK.
    Only because I don't know I'm hoping one of my mentors (e.g. Kruzr or Johnny) might come to aid...
    I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend.
    It only takes a second to dial 911; it could take the rest of your life for help to arrive...
    Posts are my opinion based on my experience; YMMV.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by warmrain
    Only because I don't know I'm hoping one of my mentors (e.g. Kruzr or Johnny) might come to aid...
    Thanks, It gets a little confusing. Most manufactures only offer comination series 70/80 firing pins so I assume it's OK, but I really want to hear from someone who using the by-pass.

  10. #10
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    Yea, that combination FP will work in any Colt and others with the same safety (or none at all). But the deal is the Kimber's safety requires the Kimber FP... It's actually a way better arrangement then the Colt Series 80. The Kimber has no effect on the trigger feel, the Colt does...
    I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend.
    It only takes a second to dial 911; it could take the rest of your life for help to arrive...
    Posts are my opinion based on my experience; YMMV.

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