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Thread: 1911 Build Part 2

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  1. #11
    Join Date
    2nd June 2004
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    Terra
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrettID View Post
    Has anyone dehorned (correct term?) all the sharp machined edges off of frame/slide? If so what was your process? Materials used? Pros, cons, cautions?
    Thanks.
    I use a flat jeweler's file.
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside
    Likes (2) :
    BrettID (29th November 2021), Rick McC. (11th December 2021)


  2. #12
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    22nd December 2019
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    Idaho
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    I'm about 25ish hours into the build so far. Not trying to keep an exact count as I probably don't really want to know. Kinda like the first day I had to teach myself how to read a micrometer again. Not having used one in over a year is my excuse. Not my age. No sir.

    I don't have the experience or knowledge of some folks here. But what I would like to pass on as advice is to; walk away when frustration sets in. You can remove metal. But you sure as heck can't add metal. I took a break early yesterday afternoon.

    Blending the top of the frame tangs to the grip safety went easy and well. There were only tool marks and it was close to matching. As far as how much metal to remove.

    The bottom of the frame tangs; the manufacturer left plenty of metal to work with. Kudos. The complexity of the angles and curves is more than meets the eyes. Knowing what I know now I probably would start with something bigger than a swiss file. The ones I bought (thanks Niemi24S) work better than I have ever used before in my life (no more harbor freight needle files for me). But with the amount of surface area, which is a lot for a swiss file, is a lot of metal. Whenever I would get close to a point where I wanted to check my work, I would polish with 6000 grit. Imperfections show up well. After hours of sitting with the parts in a vise, my eyes seem to magnify the work. I could see divots and high spots. Like hammered metal. Granted they are very tiny. But I could see them. I was running out of metal and couldn't for the life of me find the correct angle or stroke to "level" the metal. As I said that shape under there is complex. So I took a break. I'll return in a day or two.

    Anyhow, I took a couple pics. One pic I took still had the tool marks. Hard to take a picture under fluorescent lighting with a high shine. Thought I'd share. Cheers all. Afterall I don't know anybody 'round these parts that tinkers on guns in general, let alone 1911's for fun.

    1129211247.jpg
    1129211232.jpg
    Likes (1) :
    Steve in Allentown (30th November 2021)

    Last edited by BrettID; 30th November 2021 at 19:11.


  3. #13
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    22nd December 2019
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    I "finished" blending the grip safety. More like I stopped at this point. Being my first "full" blend I'm ok with it. Didn't quite turn out for what I had pictured in my head. But at least a part of my quest has been filled. Before my first build I set out on a quest to find out why a high end 1911 cost as much as they do; Skill level and craftmanship. And a lot of it.


    Anyways, I thought I'd share what my skill level produced. It won't stay shiny. Once the build is complete the plan is to bead blast to a desired sheen. I have a media picked out.

    1204211856.jpg1204211856a.jpg1204211857.jpg1204211857a.jpg1205210930.jpg

  4. #14
    Join Date
    2nd October 2006
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    Weeki Wachee, Fl
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkmoon View Post
    I use a flat jeweler's file.

    I did the same thing on a stainless Colt LW Commander.
    I lightly beveled all of the sharp slide edges except the muzzle edge right in front of the FS, and it came out very well.
    "Sights are for the unenlightened."

    Rick

    IDPA Certified Safety Officer
    Likes (1) :
    BrettID (11th December 2021)


  5. #15
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    "Sights are for the unenlightened."

    Rick

    IDPA Certified Safety Officer
    Likes (1) :
    BrettID (18th December 2021)


  6. #16
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    22nd December 2019
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    Idaho
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    Still polishing/stoning/fitting. Took a couple week break. Due to an oops and being sick. Sure wish I would have done a couple more "cheap" builds before jumping off the frying pan.


    Almost forgot how many assemblies and dissassemblies I'd be doing. Hehe. Got a blister and ripped it open during the multiple slide cycling yesterday.

    Could probably assemble one of these things in the dark. Again.
    Last edited by BrettID; 24th January 2022 at 18:24.


  7. #17
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
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    Idaho
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    I fit the firing pin stop today. The NHC fps I bought was oversized. A raise my eyebrow level of oversize. A bit more than necessary in my opinion.

    Anyhoo. Thought I'd get into the extractor and firing pin while I was at it. Now I fully understand I bought a NHC slide that requires work to fit. Odd though.

    The extractor tunnel seems to be "done" as it is in spec. A little on the sloppy side in my opinion. A 0.209" pin gage fits (spec:.2075+.0030). The NHC extractor isn't a good fit. It's stainless anyways. And I've gone with C&S extractor on my other build as it is the correct type steel (spring). So I'll probably order one of those again.

    Buuuttt the firing pin hole. Why on earth did it get finished at the size it did is beyond me. NHC likes the 38 super firing pin for its slides. Ok. The NHC firing pin has a large end diameter of 0.2125". But the firing pin hole in the slide is likely .2115. A pin gage check showed me .211 is a GO and a .212 is a NO GO.

    Why finish the extractor tunnel but not the fp hole?

    My conundrum is reaming the hole to size. Now I didn't mind using a HAND reamer on the frame holes. Not much material to run through. But a firing pin hole. Not with a hand reamer in my opinion. That is a deep hole. A lot of metal. Grrrr.

    Considering the dimension of the 38 Super firing pin of 0.2125", what size reamer would you more experienced builders use to ream the firing pin hole?

    I guess NHC leaving the hole undersized allows the builder to enlarge the hole to the desired dimension. Whether it is the 38 Super or 45 ACP size firing pin dimension.

    I would have to say in my limited experience with building 1911's I am beginning to form opinions about parts. The NHC frame and slide are of good manufacture. But there are a lot of little things about their little parts that are stacking up that leave much to be desired. The extractor is not a good one, their slide stop is not a good design and their mainspring housing....don't get me started...glad it's my gun and not a customers.

    Whine, whine, whine, complain, complain....yah yah. Just frustrated with the build today. My only gun buddy that would understand is down sick today. So I can't call him and complain.

  8. #18
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    22nd December 2019
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    Ummmm....nevermind. I"m an idiot.

    As I was looking at the cover of Kunhausens Vol.2 book and marvelling at the cutaway picture, my eyes were drawn to the firing pin and firing pin spring. I don't know why, but the thought of that firing pin spring that fit just fine in my slide caused a eureka moment.

    So I took a look at the fp hole in my slide again. Huh, the opening of the hole is out of round. You see I had an idiot moment the other day and dropped the hammer (more than once) while pulling the trigger with the gun assembled as far as I've got it built. And wouldn't you know it. Without a firing pin stop installed, the hammer will make a mess out of the entrance to that firing pin hole. So yeah, good thing it's my gun and not a customers.

    So a couple of swipes at the mouth of the firing pin hole with a round file and wa-lah, the firing pin now fits. Whoodu thunk it....

    Huh, to think that one day I might get good enough to tinker with 1911's and earn some pocket change. Probably not with all the "oops" I keep having.
    Likes (2) :
    Murray (7th February 2022), pickax (7th February 2022)


  9. #19
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    22nd December 2019
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    Wish I could post a pic of my idiot moment. Just to share so that others can learn.

    I should also post about my big oops. But at the moment I am to prideful to embarass myself to the 1911 world via the internet. So I will keep that to myself for the time being.

  10. #20
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    22nd December 2019
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    That wasn't good blending of the beavertail back a few posts of mine. I got better by doing another 1911. This one now looks better than previously posted. Yuk.

    I walked away from this build for awhile. Barrel fitment just ain't goin' right. Kinda thinking the slide lugs need hone. Not surprising. These parts aren't for a novice builder like me. Better for those with a machine shop and lots of knowledge and experience. I'll post more about that later.


    Felt like just putting 'er together to see what it looks like. Still have to install the ejector. The rear sight installed would fall out easily, even with the set screw tightened. So it's there for looks. Turns out not all novak sight cuts are correct. See Novak's website for his naughty list. I have an oversize one to fit when I'm ready. Held off as I plan on bead blasting this build when all is left is the sights. Or not. Could just tape 'em off.

    I did put an idiot scratch in it! The pic I have shows it well. Partly due to the bajillion times I assembled/disassembled. But definitely once I did the plunger tube assembly. The slide stop installed now is one I was reluctant to use at first since it is smooth. So I bought one with grippy cuts. Could not get a correct bevel on that one to slide past the plunger pin. It just didn't fit well over all. The Smooth slide stop made by NHC was a drop in fit and has a wonderful plunger pin groove already cut. Best slide stop I've ever had the pleasure of installing on a 1911. So far, I kid you not, it is the only non fitted part in the gun. Not one single file stroke, stone slide, or sandpaper glide. It dropped in like a dream.

    Anyways I'll show a picture of my rookie work.

    0327221707.jpg
    Last edited by BrettID; 30th March 2022 at 20:22.


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