1911 Build Part 2

[BrettID]

Fitting a new thumb safety is in progress. I did not maintain a proper angle on my first one and discovered how off it was when inserted into a 10-8 armorers block. I didn't have enough metal to correct.

I went with an EGW ambi. It has a sleeve that fits over the split pin. I like that design. I fitted one to another build and it doesn't "flex" like the one I initially installed on this build. I also like the extended hammer pin design better on the EGW.

I got the angle correct this time. I filed til I was real close before I joined the two halves together. They have to be joined for the safety to operate in the same plane as I discovered with my first ambi safety install. It was quittin' time last night when I was still polishing the two pin halves so they would both fit inside the sleeve. To be continued...

[BrettID]

A lot of single file strokes followed by trial fitting. Just because it clears the sear block and can be fully inserted doesn't mean the filing is done I discovered. Each pistol is different. This is the 4th thumb safety I've fitted on 3 different 1911's. I really paid attention to the angle of the thumb safety sear engagement surface vs the the sear. I actually had pretty hard contact the other day. Which prevented the safety from being able to go fully into safe or on. What clued me in, other than the force applied, was the paddle not fully fitting in the cutout in the slide. Several more single file (a couple of triples) swipes and it went "fully" on. The shape of the paddle was different than the previous one and it still looks odd. As in it doesn't fully fill the slide cutout. The sear block is at an angle that gets mated well as the safety is rotated. Not just at the point where the safety can be fully inserted into the frame. Also the paddle was not 90 degrees from the pin. I had to tweak it a tad for the safety to clear the frame.

I also had to employ the dreaded dremmel. In order for the plunger pin to fit in the detent. It wasn't quite lined up with the plunger tube. I hope I didn't go too far as it is a stiff click.

For my next build (parts already ordered) I will not do an ambi. Nope.

[BrettID]

A bit of polishing on the front edge, especially the round corner and the thumb safety works great. Very positive "snicking". I checked some of my other 1911's for comparison and there are differences. I hadn't paid attention at this level before fitting this thumb safety. Now I'm a critic.

[BrettID]

The mechanicals are done. Safety checks complete. Dummy rounds cycle fine. I'm going to run it through a session of glass bead blasting. As recommended from another site, I'll be using Ballotini glass beads, 60-120 grit. I have to solve an inadequate sized air compressor problem first. In the mean time I hope to find time to go shoot the gun. Aim High as I call the build. My dorky idea of a Air Force tribute pistol. For when I served a long time ago.

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[Steve in Allentown]

Coming along nicely.

Before you hit it with the glass beads I suggest you shoot it just in case there's more metal work needed.

It's easy to loose sight of the objective during test firing. Test firing is not the time to fling 100 rounds down range as fast as possible. This is the time to see if the extractor is functioning correctly, if the slide locks back after the last round but not before, feeding reliability, and ejection function. I perform these tests strong hand only and weak hand only using the limpest grip I can manage without dropping the pistol.

I use factory 230gr FMJ initially. If it passes all the tests with that ammo then I'll rerun the tests with my preferred handloads and factory JHP.

All my test firing is done slowly and deliberately. If it passes all the tests with all the ammo I'll go crazy and do a mag dump as fast as I can pull the trigger as my reward for having been so restrained. A boy's gotta have a little fun once in a while.

[Hawkmoon]

Coming along nicely.

Before you hit it with the glass beads I suggest you shoot it just in case there's more metal work needed.

It's easy to loose sight of the objective during test firing. Test firing is not the time to fling 100 rounds down range as fast as possible. This is the time to see if the extractor is functioning correctly, if the slide locks back after the last round but not before, feeding reliability, and ejection function. I perform these tests strong hand only and weak hand only using the limpest grip I can manage without dropping the pistol.

I use factory 230gr FMJ initially. If it passes all the tests with that ammo then I'll rerun the tests with my preferred handloads and factory JHP.

All my test firing is done slowly and deliberately. If it passes all the tests with all the ammo I'll go crazy and do a mag dump as fast as I can pull the trigger as my reward for having been so restrained. A boy's gotta have a little fun once in a while.

^^^ Seconded.

People sometimes look at me strangely when I go to the range and start shooting with no target. Most of them can't wrap their heads around the notion of "function first."

[BrettID]

Thanks for the kind comments Steve and Hawk.

Excellent suggestion on holding off on the bead blasting until after range testing! God help me if I have to do more metal work! This build tried my patience.

I should make it to the range before bead blasting. Since I'm having a tough time finding an air compressor with enough cfm for a blast cabinet that doesn't cost a bunch. I have an air equipment sales business near me that have some really nice ones in stock. I am in love with a Saylor-Beall. So much so that I'm putting some safe queens up for sale locally. Depending on my liquidation plan I'll be getting a Craftsman/Ingersoll Rand/Saylor-Beall 80 gal. vertical. I digress.

I am concerned with the extractor as it took quite a bit of a bend to obtain tension. Compared to say the Ultimate extractor from C&S that I did last. It passes the shake test. I tried using those Weigand plates with a trigger spring scale and that wasn't doable, for me anyways.

I tried to blend the upper forward corner of the dust cover on the frame, attempting to "artfully" blend with the slide. The pointy, squared off end was not to my liking. I found I'm not to artful. I may live with what I've done or cut it at an angle. Not sure yet.

The grip panel screws look like they're sitting proud in the pic. They're not tightened fully, because the bushings aren't loctited in place. Not sure if I should do that before or after bead blast.

I had many mistakes in this build and discovered that my knowledge increased a bunch because of it. Not that I like making mistakes, but my first build with a Sarco slide kit and in spec PSA frame was easy compared to this build.

[Steve in Allentown]

I am concerned with the extractor as it took quite a bit of a bend to obtain tension.

If you set the deflection to no more than .010", you'll find it nearly impossible to bend it enough to negatively affect feeding. Because I'm so fanatical about the deflection setting I've never had to worry about putting too much tension on the extractor.

[BrettID]

If you set the deflection to no more than .010", you'll find it nearly impossible to bend it enough to negatively affect feeding. Because I'm so fanatical about the deflection setting I've never had to worry about putting too much tension on the extractor.

Ahh...deflection setting. Did not check that. I recall (vaguely) reading through a post of yours awhile back when I did my first extractor install that mentioned that. I just did a search and found it. Will investigate. Thanks.

[Murray]

This looks pretty darn stunning to me. "Recent events" have encouraged me to pick up a couple of parts so I can follow in your footsteps far sooner than I hoped I would. I'll just be happy if the thing works when I'm done. I'll be giving your build threads a closer read in the near future. Best of luck putting the finishing touches on it, though it'd be hard to say what could improve an already great looking project.