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Thread: 1911 Build Part 2

  1. #1
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
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    1911 Build Part 2

    I'mmmmmmmmmmmmmm baaaaaaaaackkk!!!!!!

    After my last build documented on this site of my Sarco kit / PSA frame that was a fantastic success thanks to many on M1911 dot Org, I am once again starting a new build. I've had a pile of parts sitting and waiting for over a year. Other hobbies called me away.

    I followed the advice of others for the first build; don't spend a lot, learn how to, read Kuhnhausen and memorize. Build number two is a stainless Nighthawk Custom frame and slide. With various internals that I'll likely document here ad naseum.

    I humbly look forward to conversing with ya'll about another build.


    Thanks to whomever it was that recommended gage blocks in the other thread. Sanity savers!

    Anyone else use gage blocks and not get overly concerned out to the 4th decimal place? I did map out the frame and slide to the 4th decimal place. I just didn't fit it that finite. I am not capable with stone, file, sand paper, etc. to get that close by hand.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Likes (2) :
    Frgood (Today), Steve in Allentown (24th November 2021)


  2. #2
    Join Date
    18th August 2012
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    You're a seasoned pro now!
    Likes (1) :
    BrettID (25th November 2021)


  3. #3
    Join Date
    25th September 2006
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    Gauge blocks are indeed a sanity saver. And if you ever get any of the various types of bore/hole gauges, don't forget the ring gauges.
    P(10)C030002a Digital Electronic Benefits..., Post 17.JPG
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]
    Likes (1) :
    Frgood (Today)


  4. #4
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
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    Yes the ring gauge! We discussed that at the end of the last build. I did peruse ebay for them and didn't decide to buy at that time.

    Better bore ball gauges this time around will have to enter the tool bin. And a bore micrometer.

    I did buy a basic can lip gauge. I believe I got a new one off of ebay for 50-60 bucks. I wasn't brave enough to modify it to fit over the top of the breech block to measure the slide rail. The one Brownells offers was very expensive ($240ish). I'll make do with the one I have, unless a need arises to modify.

    Last night I reamed the slide pin stop hole. Using a reamer chucked up in a spare drill chuck.

    For fun I put barrel, bushing, recoil spring/guide/plug in and played with my build. I have a different bushing/plug combo that will be the permanent pieces that have yet to be fitted. The "drop in" Storm Lake barrel actually feels like it locks up pretty decent. I have not measured/checked anything yet. But it was fun to cycle the slide this early in the build and nothing impeded the cycling.

    1124211754.jpg
    Last edited by BrettID; 25th November 2021 at 11:41. Reason: verbage


  5. #5
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    22nd December 2019
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    Has anyone dehorned (correct term?) all the sharp machined edges off of frame/slide? If so what was your process? Materials used? Pros, cons, cautions?
    Thanks.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    18th August 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrettID View Post
    Has anyone dehorned (correct term?) all the sharp machined edges off of frame/slide? If so what was your process? Materials used? Pros, cons, cautions?
    I use a combination of files, sandpaper, and the dreaded Dremel. My objective is to minimally radius the edges such that a quick glance doesn't reveal that any metal has been removed.
    Likes (2) :
    BrettID (25th November 2021), Frgood (Today)


  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Thanks Steve! I can't tie flies. So a dremel could be dangerous.

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