Welcome to M1911.ORG
The M1911 Pistols Organization Forums Site


John needs your help
Please read this message.


Sponsors Panel
If you intend to buy something from the companies advertising above, or near the bottom of our pages, please use their banners in our sites. Whatever you buy from them, using those banners, gives us a small commission, which helps us keep these sites alive. You still pay the normal price, our commission comes from their profit, so you have nothing to lose, while we have something to gain. Your help is appreciated.
If you want to become a sponsor and see your banner in the above panel, click here to contact us.

Results 1 to 1 of 1

Thread: Ambiguous terms lead to misunderstanding./ 1911 bumper pad attachment.

THREAD CLOSED
This is an old thread. You can't post a reply in it. It is left here for historical reasons.Why don't you create a new thread instead?
  1. #1
    Join Date
    3rd August 2021
    Posts
    25
    Posts liked by others
    9

    Ambiguous terms lead to misunderstanding./ 1911 bumper pad attachment.

    Pursing the posts on several different forums relative to screw-on bumper pads I found several different posters who opined that the base plates on 1911 magazines were "hard" and could only be drilled with a carbide drill.

    That is just not true. The few 1911 base plates I tested (MecGar plus one unknown brand) with a file demonstrated a slight reluctance to cut, but the file did not skate across the metal without cutting at all. Therefore, not "hard" (as to a machinist anyway). Albeit, they may be described as somewhat "tough".

    The common thread size and pitch for attaching bumper pads is tap size 4-40. The drill size for a 4-40 tap is #43 which is only .089 in diameter. Solid Carbide drill bits are very brittle...way more so than the more common High Speed Steel drill bits. In short, the chances of a non-machinist using a cheap home drill press with a solid carbide .089 diameter drill bit to drill the two holes in a typical 1911 base plate are not very good without breaking the bit.

    However, the base plates are not hardened can be drilled successful. It is just that I would suggest using Titanium Nitride (TiN)coated drill bit to do it. The Titanium (a Gold colored ceramic), is coated on the High Speed Steel (H.S.S) and will cut tougher metal, while at the same time being less brittle and likely to break. Use high RPM's and a center punch to locate the holes. Or better yet, take a night class in machining at your Community College and learn how to do such things there.
    Likes (1) :
    Mark75H (16th September 2021)

    Last edited by Bushranger; 13th September 2021 at 20:32.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Sponsors Panel
If you intend to buy something from Brownells, please use their banners above. Whatever you buy from them, gives us a small commission, which helps us keep these sites alive. You still pay the normal price, our commission comes from their profit, so you have nothing to lose, while we have something to gain. Your help is appreciated.
If you want to become a sponsor and see your banner in the above panel, click here to contact us.

Non-gun-related supporters.
Thank you for visiting our supporters.