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Thread: Removing rust and grime after 20 years not being used

  1. #1
    Join Date
    2nd September 2020
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    Fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada!
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    Question Removing rust and grime after 20 years not being used

    I purchased my Kimber Custom Shop Combat Carry in 1999 when I lived in Seattle, then moved to California at the end of 2000 and the gun sat in storage for 20 years until I just recently moved to Nevada.

    I just did a very basic inspection of the gun and it appears to work as well as I remember, but with some corrosion showing on the end of the barrel and the slide.

    When I was shooting regularly I would clean the gun after every visit to the range. I only ever took the slide off and cleaned the basic components, never even removed the firing pin.

    So I'm wondering what would be a good idea for me to do before going to the range again? Is there something I should inspect for? Some extra cleaning some place? Any tips on removing the corrosion on the barrel and the slide? My first idea was to drop the barrel in some Eastwood Rust Dissolver, but I wasn't so sure this would be a good idea on the slide.

    I was also wondering if anyone has any tips on cleaning the grease and skin out of the metal grip spikes?








  2. #2
    Join Date
    4th June 2004
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    First I would try Breakfree CLP, soft cloth rags and a toothbrush with the bristles cut to about half normal height. Breakfree CLP softens rust so the rags/toothbrush can remove it but usually any pitted areas remain dark. Any rust remover I've ever used etches metal.
    Likes (1) :
    ThisIsMy1911 (21st October 2020)


  3. #3
    Join Date
    24th December 2006
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    I picked up a 1911 Armory made nm. It had beeen in a flood and left on a shelf for years.
    Rusted up tight with empty magazine in it. Slide was stuck. Hammer would move with force.
    Put it in a bucket with oil for little over two months (removed grips). Got the slide out and got every thing to function.
    The oil removed the rust & left the pits. It's one ugly pistol that shoots.
    I would try and soak in in CLP then lightly rub with stainless steel wool to remove any remaining rust,
    Then use it, pits & all.
    There is always Cerakote.
    Likes (1) :
    ThisIsMy1911 (21st October 2020)

    Last edited by Norton; 21st October 2020 at 08:56.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    2nd September 2020
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    @Norton, I think that's they way to go - just maintain it as an old, reliable compact 1911; nuttin' fancy.

    The sites are tritium, and even though the glow is just visible in complete darkness, should I remove the sites before soaking the slide in oil? I'm not even sure how to remove them.

    Also, the gun has likely never been apart beyond just removing the slide - should I do anything in the frame?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    24th December 2006
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    The internal parts should be inspected. Slide disassembly, cleaning & lube.
    The frame & components I would blow out after allowing oil to drain. If your comfortable with a full strip this is a good excuse.
    If you are one who tends to squirt in CLP into the crevices of the frame you're probably good.
    Some others may have better answers.
    Shoot & enjoy it.

  6. #6
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    I don’t think you should try to remove the sights; they should be OK in a CLP bath anyway. As I recall from my Kimber days; they’re put in using a powerful hydraulic press.

    You really should give the gun a good detail strip and cleaning. I think there’s an animated disassembly guide on the Technical Issues sub-forum on this site. There are probably instructional videos on the boob-tube as well.
    "Sights are for the unenlightened."

    Rick

    IDPA Certified Safety Officer

  7. #7
    Join Date
    24th July 2005
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    If it was me I would detail strip it and drop it in a pan of Mineral Spirits ( Available in the paint department of your home store).
    Let soak overnight, put some gloves on and scrub with a toothbrush.
    Pull parts out let dry or hit with some compressed air.
    Barrel can be cleaned with Flitz.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJIMM3ObMMo
    Kimber barrel are very prone to rust.
    Lube when you reassemble
    Don't forget to replace the recoil spring Assembly every 500 rounds
    https://www.egwguns.com/guide-rod-ki...-agent-lda-etc

  8. #8
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    Do you have access to a Ultra-sonic cleaner?

    I've had success removing rust from carbon revolver parts!

    Smiles,

  9. #9
    Join Date
    2nd October 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by T-TAC View Post
    If it was me I would detail strip it and drop it in a pan of Mineral Spirits ( Available in the paint department of your home store).
    Let soak overnight, put some gloves on and scrub with a toothbrush.
    Pull parts out let dry or hit with some compressed air.
    Barrel can be cleaned with Flitz.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJIMM3ObMMo
    Kimber barrel are very prone to rust.
    Lube when you reassemble
    Don't forget to replace the recoil spring Assembly every 500 rounds
    https://www.egwguns.com/guide-rod-ki...-agent-lda-etc
    If you can’t find mineral spirits; get a bottle of charcoal starter. They’re pretty much the same thing.
    "Sights are for the unenlightened."

    Rick

    IDPA Certified Safety Officer

  10. #10
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    In my opinion a lot depends on how badly rusted is the pistol.
    Just for a start I would disassemble it completely and give it a good BALLISTOL/Kroil bath, then i would use an old toothbrush, some clean cloths and a lot of elbow grease.
    Sergio
    Imagine your grave on a windy winter night. You've been dead for 70 years.
    It's been 50 since a visitor last paused at your tombstone . . .
    Now explain why you're in a pissy mood today.

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