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Results 181 to 190 of 195

Thread: 1911 Build

  1. #181
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
    Location
    Idaho
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    162
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    The Gap brothers

    GapBrthrs.jpg

  2. #182
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
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    Idaho
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    For the readers of my bumbling and fumbling my way through this build, I hear you. "Is he going to shoot it or what!?!?"

    Yes, as soon as I finish my morning coffee I'm heading to the range. Loaded my range bag last night. Mag loadings: 2 GI mags one round each, 2 Checkmate 8 rounder mags 2 rounds each, then 2 mags 3 rounds, then 4 rounds, then full mags. I will inspect brass after each mag session. At some point I'll field strip and inspect components. That is dependent upon function of course.

    The sun hasn't crested the horizon yet. It is expected to reach 104 degrees (F) today. I'm not a fan of anything over 90. So I'm going early. Hope I still have all my digits upon returning. Of course appropriate safety eyewear is a must. Wish me luck and stay tuned for more tales of bumbling and fumbling....
    Likes (1) :
    JD11 (1st August 2020)


  3. #183
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
    Location
    Idaho
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    Successful range trip! I came back home with all my fingers and no extra holes in me!

    On the 2nd magazine (GI) with only one round in the mag, after firing the slide failed to lock open. I did not use that magazine again. I used 10 Checkmates and 1 other GI. I'm thinking magazine.

    That is it. NO: fails to feed, fail to eject, fails to fire, etc. Primer indents on center. Brass landed 8 feet away in the same area. Easy to pickup that way. No odd marks on the brass. Thumb safety worked throughout as well as grip safety.

    A total of 100 rounds fired. Most (84ish) were Federal AE 230 gr fmj, the rest PMC 230gr.fmj. Next time I'll try some of my reloads. I wanted to eliminate "me" from the range test as much as possible the first time.

    I will perform an autopsy on the gun later. Family first (spent a huge amount of vacation this week on the 1911 time for a break).

    I set up at the gun club in a rifle bay. Target at 11.5 yards (why 11.5? That is what the range finder said. I was aiming for an even 10. Close enough, I left it.)

    The "ladder" loadings of the magazines were shot off of a bag. I wanted to be sitting down in case something went wrong and a big part koncked me in the head.

    The other 80 rounds were standing and shooting off hand (that is what I call it, mind you I don't have ANY formal training in guns whatsoever. AF basic doesn't count as those were 22LR converted M16's and were junk). Speaking of no formal training, let those targets tell the tale....

    Hope notes on targets are readable, I'm tired of typing and my kids want to play...
    7:31:20Build.jpg1911Build1.jpg1911Build2.jpg1911Build3.jpg1911Build4.jpg
    Likes (3) :
    JD11 (1st August 2020), megafiddle (3rd August 2020), Rick McC. (31st July 2020)

    Last edited by BrettID; 31st July 2020 at 13:37.


  4. #184
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    162
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    Post range trip break down and inspection of pistol completed. The hammer and sear surfaces look just like when I finished them. Barrel feet and link look good.

    The only discrepancy noted is the front of the recoil spring guide rod has some peening on the face from the contours of the slide. I'll try post a picture later.

    It has been a while since I've shot a gun with a new barrel that has as much stubborn copper fouling as this one does, so I let it sit overnight with a Hoppes brand copper solvent. Years ago I used Sweets copper solvent for that task. That stuff is nasty smelling and can be harmful to the barrel if not used correctly. Hopefully it will finally come clean when I finish it in an hour or so.

    Anybody have tips on plunger pin/thumb safety installation? I set up a makeshift barrier around the frame during reassembly to catch the inevitable plunger pin launch. It took 3 attempts before I successfully installed the thumb safety without the launch of the pin. I've been using a rectangular shaped metal key chain ornament that one side is coated in plastic as an installation aid.
    0731201631.jpg

    After Niemi24s posted about his discussion at the range about the guide block issue. I stewed about it for a few hours. And in my typical fashion (I do irrational things). I had a man sized temper tantrum. I ordered an expensive solution. It showed up on my doorstep late yesterday afternoon.

    0731201357.jpg

    As of this writing I'm inclined to do another build. Unless those with more knowledge/experience than I will ever have with the 1911 recommend re-doing the top end of my build. I would appreciate some input (and criticism) from your wisdom.

    The breechface guide block(s) dimension is; 0.151" (ordnance spec; 0.159 +.000 -.003). A quick stab with the Storm Lake barrel I have does show a sliver of a gap. That is without fitting of the barrel obviously. So that gap could disappear.

    Thanks again for this site. I couldn't have made it this far without it.

    Side note: I would think as expensive as the VZ grips are that I purchased, they would come with a set of grip screws. The GI grip screws that came in the Sarco kit have a screw head that fits well in GI grips. But they don't fit well in the countersink of the VZ grips. To me they stick out like a sore thumb.
    Last edited by BrettID; 1st August 2020 at 08:07.


  5. #185
    Join Date
    18th August 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrettID View Post
    Anybody have tips on plunger pin/thumb safety installation?
    I've found the Pachmayer widget to be the fastest, easiest way to depress the plunger while pushing the thumb safety back into place. It can be purchased from a variety of vendors. If your plunger spring doesn't have a kink in the middle, you can make the kink by carefully using a pair of wire cutters between the coils - don't cut the spring.

    Likes (1) :
    BrettID (1st August 2020)


  6. #186
    Join Date
    25th September 2006
    Location
    South of Lake Superior
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrettID View Post
    A quick stab with the Storm Lake barrel I have does show a sliver of a gap. That is without fitting of the barrel obviously. So that gap could disappear.
    If your Storm Lake barrel goes to battery in the new slide, what kind of "fitting" do you anticipate needing to do?

    Q: Was this Storm Lake barrel a drop-in or oversized (won't drop in, requires fitting) model?
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]
    Last edited by niemi24s; 1st August 2020 at 09:40.


  7. #187
    Join Date
    22nd December 2019
    Location
    Idaho
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    Quote Originally Posted by niemi24s View Post
    If your Storm Lake barrel goes to battery in the new slide, what kind of "fitting" do you anticipate needing to do?

    Q: Was this Storm Lake barrel a drop-in or oversized (won't drop in, requires fitting) model?
    It is a drop in barrel. I did a quick drop in and it seemed to me to take quite a bit of pressure to "snap" it into place. Maybe a polish on the hood to breech face engagement surface of the barrel due to the parkerized coating? There is zero gap. Hood sides do have a gap. I would like to verify by measurement/sharpee marking of the lug engagement.

    Edit: I just remembered. That was with the barrel bushing not completely installed (or not, don't exactly recall, I tried both ways). Barrel bushing isn't a drop in, it doesn't. It needs fitting. The first thing I wanted to see when I opened the box was the guide block gap. Just as a side note as I was looking at that I "felt" the barrel a little on the stiff side to drop in. So it really wasn't a "lets check the drop in barrel fit".
    Last edited by BrettID; 1st August 2020 at 11:57.


  8. #188
    Join Date
    2nd October 2006
    Location
    Weeki Wachee, Fl
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve in Allentown View Post
    I've found the Pachmayer widget to be the fastest, easiest way to depress the plunger while pushing the thumb safety back into place. It can be purchased from a variety of vendors. If your plunger spring doesn't have a kink in the middle, you can make the kink by carefully using a pair of wire cutters between the coils - don't cut the spring.

    A 1/16” punch works well for me.
    "Sights are for the unenlightened."

    Rick

    IDPA Certified Safety Officer

  9. #189
    Join Date
    29th August 2017
    Posts
    341
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrettID View Post
    I did find my missing plunger pin. I could have sworn it went beyond the work bench and out into orbit.
    Attachment 5519

    When you first launched the plunger pin, the spring was not attached?

    You may need a new spring if the plunger ends don't snap securely into the spring.

    (edited to add)

    I just noticed the photo in post #184; the plunger pins and spring are not assembled.

    Snap the ends of the plunger pins into the ends of the spring. It then becomes a single assembly, and will at least keep everything together.

    Then, a kink or offset in the middle of the plunger spring will hold the assembly in the tube when the thumb safety is removed.

    -
    Likes (1) :
    BrettID (1st August 2020)

    Last edited by megafiddle; 1st August 2020 at 17:38.


  10. #190
    Join Date
    25th September 2006
    Location
    South of Lake Superior
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    The Ordnance drawings in our Tech Issues section will show you exactly how much to uncoil one of the center plunger spring coils to make it stay in the plunger tube until forcefully withdrawn.
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]
    Likes (1) :
    BrettID (1st August 2020)


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