Welcome to M1911.ORG
The M1911 Pistols Organization Forums Site


John needs your help
Please read this message.


Sponsors Panel
If you intend to buy something from the companies advertising above, or near the bottom of our pages, please use their banners in our sites. Whatever you buy from them, using those banners, gives us a small commission, which helps us keep these sites alive. You still pay the normal price, our commission comes from their profit, so you have nothing to lose, while we have something to gain. Your help is appreciated.
If you want to become a sponsor and see your banner in the above panel, click here to contact us.

Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Converting an 18.9 LDA from Series 70 => Series 80

THREAD CLOSED
This is an old thread. You can't post a reply in it. It is left here for historical reasons.Why don't you create a new thread instead?
  1. #1
    Join Date
    25th February 2010
    Posts
    203
    Posts liked by others
    5

    Converting an 18.9 LDA from Series 70 => Series 80

    EDIT - I meant Series 80 => Series 70

    Hi - thanks in advance for any guidance on an LDA question - I had some issues with one of my Para 18.9 LDAs at the range yesterday - it's got a loose firing pin stop and something caused the stop to move down a bit while I was shooting - it stayed with the gun, and luckily, I didn't have to go searching around on the ground for it. Thinking that I probably did something wrong when I was re-assembling all of the components after doing a detail strip, I was gonna just strip it down and re-assemble it again, but now I'm thinking that I'd like to just remove the Series 80 parts and put in a spacer like I've done with a few other Series 80 1911s - but I'm wondering if that'd work as easily with the 18.9 LDA - the series 80 component in the frame (just the "plunger lever", I think, part number 46, shown here https://www.brownells.com/schematics...x#s44306sid786) looks different than the Series 80 parts on regular 1911s I've worked on - with the other Series 80's I've converted, I just removed the plunger and spring, and the two Series 80 parts in the frame, and put in one of these spacers - https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/p...76011780_2.jpg.

    Will the same shim I've used in other 1911s to convert them to a Series 70 work with the 18.9 LDA?

    Also, some of the shim providers offer shims in different thicknesses - given the little dimple on my LDAs plunger lever, maybe I should get a slightly thicker shim for the LDA.

    Your thoughts, please, and thanks in advance !!
    Last edited by texas yankee; 8th November 2018 at 13:21.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    2nd June 2004
    Location
    Terra
    Posts
    22,287
    Posts liked by others
    906
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  3. #3
    Join Date
    25th February 2010
    Posts
    203
    Posts liked by others
    5
    Thanks - another issue has come up.

    The firing pin stop is very loose - I'm not sure if it's the original FPS or not - it actually slipped down a bit when I was shooting the gun last time - which causes me to suspect that the firing pin spring is weak and probably needs to be replaced. From what I can tell, the extractor looks OK. I could \ should probably replace the FPS as well, but I only shoot the gun at the range and I'm thinking that a drop of Loctite in the frame at the top of the FPS channel will probably hold it in place - yeah. it's a bubba solution, but to avoid fitting a new FPS, what do ya think?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    2nd June 2004
    Location
    Terra
    Posts
    22,287
    Posts liked by others
    906
    Quote Originally Posted by texas yankee View Post
    Thanks - another issue has come up.

    The firing pin stop is very loose - I'm not sure if it's the original FPS or not - it actually slipped down a bit when I was shooting the gun last time - which causes me to suspect that the firing pin spring is weak and probably needs to be replaced. From what I can tell, the extractor looks OK. I could \ should probably replace the FPS as well, but I only shoot the gun at the range and I'm thinking that a drop of Loctite in the frame at the top of the FPS channel will probably hold it in place - yeah. it's a bubba solution, but to avoid fitting a new FPS, what do ya think?
    What about replacing the firing pin spring?

    What color of Loctite do you propose using?
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  5. #5
    Join Date
    25th February 2010
    Posts
    203
    Posts liked by others
    5
    Yeah, I'm thinking that I replace the firing pin spring, maybe get a set of three (regular, reduced power, and increased power) and experiment. I was thinking blue Loctite, LOL, since that's what I have on hand.

    I ordered some regular and extra power firing pin springs from Wolff - the reduced power springs didn't make any sense given the problem I was having.
    Last edited by texas yankee; 11th November 2018 at 11:34.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Sponsors Panel
If you intend to buy something from Brownells, please use their banners above. Whatever you buy from them, gives us a small commission, which helps us keep these sites alive. You still pay the normal price, our commission comes from their profit, so you have nothing to lose, while we have something to gain. Your help is appreciated.
If you want to become a sponsor and see your banner in the above panel, click here to contact us.

Non-gun-related supporters.
Thank you for visiting our supporters.