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Thread: Converting an 18.9 LDA from Series 70 => Series 80

  1. #1
    Join Date
    25th February 2010
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    Converting an 18.9 LDA from Series 70 => Series 80

    EDIT - I meant Series 80 => Series 70

    Hi - thanks in advance for any guidance on an LDA question - I had some issues with one of my Para 18.9 LDAs at the range yesterday - it's got a loose firing pin stop and something caused the stop to move down a bit while I was shooting - it stayed with the gun, and luckily, I didn't have to go searching around on the ground for it. Thinking that I probably did something wrong when I was re-assembling all of the components after doing a detail strip, I was gonna just strip it down and re-assemble it again, but now I'm thinking that I'd like to just remove the Series 80 parts and put in a spacer like I've done with a few other Series 80 1911s - but I'm wondering if that'd work as easily with the 18.9 LDA - the series 80 component in the frame (just the "plunger lever", I think, part number 46, shown here https://www.brownells.com/schematics...x#s44306sid786) looks different than the Series 80 parts on regular 1911s I've worked on - with the other Series 80's I've converted, I just removed the plunger and spring, and the two Series 80 parts in the frame, and put in one of these spacers - https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/p...76011780_2.jpg.

    Will the same shim I've used in other 1911s to convert them to a Series 70 work with the 18.9 LDA?

    Also, some of the shim providers offer shims in different thicknesses - given the little dimple on my LDAs plunger lever, maybe I should get a slightly thicker shim for the LDA.

    Your thoughts, please, and thanks in advance !!
    Last edited by texas yankee; 8th November 2018 at 14:21.


  2. #2
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    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  3. #3
    Join Date
    25th February 2010
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    Thanks - another issue has come up.

    The firing pin stop is very loose - I'm not sure if it's the original FPS or not - it actually slipped down a bit when I was shooting the gun last time - which causes me to suspect that the firing pin spring is weak and probably needs to be replaced. From what I can tell, the extractor looks OK. I could \ should probably replace the FPS as well, but I only shoot the gun at the range and I'm thinking that a drop of Loctite in the frame at the top of the FPS channel will probably hold it in place - yeah. it's a bubba solution, but to avoid fitting a new FPS, what do ya think?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by texas yankee View Post
    Thanks - another issue has come up.

    The firing pin stop is very loose - I'm not sure if it's the original FPS or not - it actually slipped down a bit when I was shooting the gun last time - which causes me to suspect that the firing pin spring is weak and probably needs to be replaced. From what I can tell, the extractor looks OK. I could \ should probably replace the FPS as well, but I only shoot the gun at the range and I'm thinking that a drop of Loctite in the frame at the top of the FPS channel will probably hold it in place - yeah. it's a bubba solution, but to avoid fitting a new FPS, what do ya think?
    What about replacing the firing pin spring?

    What color of Loctite do you propose using?
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  5. #5
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    Yeah, I'm thinking that I replace the firing pin spring, maybe get a set of three (regular, reduced power, and increased power) and experiment. I was thinking blue Loctite, LOL, since that's what I have on hand.

    I ordered some regular and extra power firing pin springs from Wolff - the reduced power springs didn't make any sense given the problem I was having.
    Last edited by texas yankee; 11th November 2018 at 12:34.


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