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Thread: reloading dies for dummy rounds

  1. #61
    Join Date
    3rd September 2018
    Location
    Modesto, Ca.
    Posts
    13
    Posts liked by others
    5
    Hawkmoon, thanks so much for the tip about the wooden dowel. I used 7/16" diameter which fits well into a .45 ACP case. I used a cheap soft wood dowel, which may or may not have been the best choice. We'll see how that works out over time. I cut the length of each piece to 10.5mm. This allowed my 200gr LSWC slugs to seat well, for an O.A.L. of 31.75mm, which is the same I use for the loads I shoot at the range.

    I very much appreciate your help, and will keep an eye out for your posts on other topics of pertinence.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    3rd September 2018
    Location
    Modesto, Ca.
    Posts
    13
    Posts liked by others
    5
    I bought a piece of 7/16" diameter cheap imported dowel, which is a good fit for .45ACP brass. The wood is soft. Dowel with a non-primed case small.jpg For my 200gr LSWC rounds I cut the wood to a thickness of 10.5mm. Dowel visible through flash hole small.jpeg Here's how an assembled case looks with the wood visible through the flash hole.

    The whole point of this is to make dummy rounds that will last through multiple times of being used. So, it'll be a while before I find out just how well this works.
    Last edited by MuyModesto; 15th October 2018 at 15:40. Reason: typo


  3. #63
    Join Date
    21st September 2008
    Posts
    9,614
    Posts liked by others
    97
    Good. Some shooters fill the primer pocket with a piece of eraser, in case you need to dry-fire your dummy rounds. It won't last forever (or nearly so), but for occasional use it should do.
    Too many people miss the silver lining because they're expecting gold.
    M. Setter

  4. #64
    Join Date
    3rd September 2018
    Location
    Modesto, Ca.
    Posts
    13
    Posts liked by others
    5
    Interesting idea. I only use the dummy rounds by mixing them with live rounds. Currently I use the ratio of 1 dummy for every 2 live ones. I put them in a can and mix them up. Then, while looking away and using only sense of touch I load my magazines. That way I have no idea where the dummy rounds are in the mix. So far I've noticed my trigger control and my scores are improving dramatically using this method. In that context I have two questions:

    1) Is the eraser in the primer pocket needed? My understanding had always been that it was OK in centerfire guns to dry-fire with nothing there to stop the firing pin's motion. Such would not be the case with rimfire guns. I always keep one 1911 unloaded and locked up separately from the others - - unloaded. It's always the one going with me to the range on my next range day. I dry fire it every day. After range day I rotate that assignment to the next one.

    2) What would be a good adhesive to keep the erasers in place with all the motions of recoil and the heat generated by the firing of the live rounds in the mix?

    I'm glad I joined this forum. I'm picking up a lot of really good information here.

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