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Thread: Taper crimp die question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    25th September 2006
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    Could you post a photo of the inside of that die like somewhat like this?

    http://

    This taken with die bodies covered and light shining in through the tops of the dies.
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]

  2. #12
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    I will take a pic for you after I return to work.

    My reloading bench is at work 30 minutes from home. I might go down shooting one day though.

  3. #13
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    12th October 2008
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    Mea Culpa. Hawkmoon is correct, and I was confused. In any case, if you have sufficient grip on the bullet, no crimping is needed. I have in the past used Lee factory crimp die to taper crimp, but have found that it was not really needed.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    2nd June 2007
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    You will find brass shavings in or below your expander die and crimp die for one principle reason: you didn't lightly chamfer the case when you first used it (or, heaven forbid, after you uselessly trimmed it). This is only exacerbated by poor machining. I am sure Hornady will be happy to have you return it, though they may just send you a new one and you can keep that one.

    niemi24s has it exactly right. The sum total of required taper crimp is to remove the case mouth flare (bell).

    Flare removal was done for decades by:
    1) LOOKING at the round in front of a white background
    2) running a finger or thumb down the bullet ogive to see if the case mouth "grabbed" your finger from residual flare
    or
    3) Taking a factory round, place in shell holder, raise the ram, and then turn the taper crimp die down until it just touches the case mouth (when you first feel any resistance to the die being screwed down).
    Now, with so many wanting everything measured, you go to the SAAMI drawing for the case mouth dimension for a loaded round and, in general, take the shown dimension as the target. So, for 9x19, the SAAMI drawing shows the case mouth to be 0.3800 (+0.0000/-0.007"), so one would aim for a case mouth dimension of 0.378-0.380".
    Attached Images Attached Images
    NRA Life Member
    Last edited by noylj; 23rd December 2017 at 18:25.


  5. #15
    Join Date
    25th September 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by PolyKahr View Post
    I have in the past used Lee factory crimp die to taper crimp, but have found that it was not really needed.
    FWIW, a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die can (at least in 45 Auto) be used to successfully crimp (de-flare) provided only the lower carbide sizing ring is used, the case mouth not going beyond it. In other words, one way to use a Lee CFCD to crimp (de-flare) is with the the upper crimping sleeve removed so you won't be tempted to run the round all the way through its lower sizing die.

    This is because the lower carbide sizing ring is too small and - especially with lead bullets in thick cases - will actually dramatically reduce the cases grip on the bullet. However, the upper adjustable crimping sleeve can be used without detriment if the carbide sizing ring at the bottom is first removed. But that's easier said than done. It's what I use to crimp (de-flare) my 45 Auto reloads - a Lee CFCD with its sizing ring removed.

    But whether all this applies to the 9mm or any other caliber, I just don't know. The way to find out is to accurately measure the lower carbide sizing rings ID and compare it to the maximum SAAMI/CIS case mouth OD for your cartridge. Here's what I've found for the six 45 Auto/ACP LCFCD's I've measured:

    http://

    And the reason for the "Should Be 0.473" !!!!!" just above for the 45 Auto/ACP is shown below, straight from the Lee website:

    http://

    So per noylj's nice SAAMI diagram, if Lee makes a CFCD for the 9mm and its lower carbide sizing ring is less than 0.380" ID, it's not properly made and can loosen the grip of a good thick case on a lead bullet.
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]
    Last edited by niemi24s; 25th December 2017 at 09:28.


  6. #16
    Join Date
    2nd January 2016
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    I gave up trimming pistol cases this year due to the rather overwhelming consensus her in the not necessary category.

    i have never given the 9mm a light inside chamfer and all my other brass has chamfers due to trimming,maybe that is the difference.

    i will try that and see what happens.

    Merry Christmas!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    27th March 2013
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    Either don't crimp .45 & 9mm cases OR back your taper crimp up some.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    27th March 2013
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    Texas
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    Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated as always, what did we do before we had the Internet.

    We read a LOT of books!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    2nd December 2004
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    It is more of an expansion removal step than an actual crimp.

    The taper crimp die should straighten out the case walls and nothing much more.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    2nd January 2016
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    Niemi,

    I thought at at one time in this post I saw photo bucket instructions in a post from you?

    Was it an illegal post or can it be reposted?

    Been flu bitten for 3 weeks but aliving and moving slowly again.

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