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Thread: Taper crimp die question

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Taper crimp die question

    I recently started reloading for 9mm.

    I use Hornady taper crimp dies for .45 and where a taper crimp is applicable on .38 Special. These dies have always been smooth and no drag on handle so to speak.

    The 9mm has a pop to it as I lower the press handle to remove the crimped case from die and leaves almost a powdered brass on the bullet and eventually a mess of brass powder and shavings on the shell plate after 2-3 hundred rounds. I crimp to .378.5-.380

    Hornady had nothing to offer on this.

    9mm is new to me in November so I don't know if this is common to 9mm or if I need a new die.

    Any comments are as usual appreciated, thanks!

  2. #2
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    Hello,
    The 9mm is not any different than .45.
    I do not crimp my straight walled pistol ammo (as long as I have good neck tension). I would reset the die to keep it from crimping and retry....if it still pops or drags on that final step then I would inspect the die.
    Beauty is skin deep but ugly goes right to the bone.
    Likes (1) :
    majorleewild (3rd February 2018)


  3. #3
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    It initially sounds like you are over crimping. I only crimp enough to remove the flair and pass the plunk test. They measure somewhere between .376-.378 at the case mouth when using Berry's 124 plated RN.

    What projectile are you using and what diameter?

  4. #4
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    I have to agree. You don't really need to crimp .45 or 9mm. You should flare just enough to start the bullet into the case. No crimping is needed, and in any case it should not be a tapered crimp because these rounds headspace of the case mouth.

    Wade

  5. #5
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    I use a .356 124gn lrn coated Badman bullet.

    I use a Lyman type m die for the case mouth set to pocket just enough to allow the bullet in there without shaving the driving band when seated, .384 case mouth o.d.

    I need to taper crimp to .380 for finished rd to chamber via plunk test, .378.5 falls back out of chamber freely.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PolyKahr View Post
    No crimping is needed, and in any case it should not be a tapered crimp because these rounds headspace of the case mouth.
    That's why it should be a taper crimp. The other choice is a roll crimp, and that's what we use on revolver rounds.
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkmoon View Post
    That's why it should be a taper crimp. The other choice is a roll crimp, and that's what we use on revolver rounds.
    Hawkmoon is correct.

    Tawadc45,
    Everything that you are doing seems to be ok. Are you seating and crimping at the same time or separately?
    Make sure that the inside of the die is clean. I occasionally start getting a build up of gunk that periodically needs cleaned out. I use mineral spirits and a bore brush. Make sure the sleeve in the seating/crimping die is moving freely.

    Also a pic of a loaded round and one of the projectile might help.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by tranders; 20th December 2017 at 10:41.


  8. #8
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    All that brass residue could be the result of expanding the case mouth too much. A simple way of telling when your finished round has just enough taper "crimp" - actually just enough of any remaining flare removed - is shown below:

    http://

    I use this single edge razor blade method to set my taper crimp die, measuring the case mouth OD only occasionally and then only to satisfy my curiosity.

    That "pop" you feel in the press handle when removing the finished round makes me think the round is being forced into the crimp die to far and the case mouth is going up beyond the crimping (tapered) section.
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]
    Likes (1) :
    ncviking (21st December 2017)

    Last edited by niemi24s; 20th December 2017 at 12:24.


  9. #9
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    The die taper might be rough reamed. I have seen brass dust off of a rough expander plug.

  10. #10
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    I thought at first I might have the die set so the case was going way up there and the bullet just wouldn't say let it crimp any further than .376.My conclusion is I don't think so as small adjustments yield small small changes, in other words it did not take a lot of backing the die out to go from a finished diameter of .376 out to .380.

    I looked closely at the inside of the die today and the finish has visible ream marks to it, unlike my other taper crimp dies from the same manufacturer which are smooth and shiny. Maybe qc was missed with that die? I think I will ask Hornady about that.

    I like the razor blade trick, I use it to find ogive shank junction but never thought of it for checking flare removal.

    Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated as always, what did we do before we had the Internet.
    Likes (1) :
    ncviking (21st December 2017)

    Last edited by Tawadc95; 20th December 2017 at 22:38.


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