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Thread: Taper crimp die question

  1. #31
    Join Date
    30th April 2006
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    30
    Posts liked by others
    1
    When I started reloading 45acp, I ran into minor problems, but after I bought a gage from LE Wilson and adjusted my dies to fit the gage, all my problems went away. If it fits in the gage, it will fit in the chamber.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    2nd January 2016
    Location
    California...north!
    Posts
    196
    Posts liked by others
    5
    It wasnít that the cartridges werenít fitting the chamber, it was the taper crimp die the cartridge was sticking in and removing a lot of brass from the case mouth when coming out of the die.
    With this new die there is no sticking or popping lose from the die, no brass shavings on the shell plate and a nice cleanly defined outside case mouth edge to headspace on, just like my 45 and 38 taper crimp dies behave.
    It is real nice when tools work as they are supposed to.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    2nd May 2008
    Posts
    6
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    0
    Iíll confess to not reading all these pages... Iíve been reloading since middle 80ís...... autoís get a Light taper crimp. Just enough to burnish the edge and stop. Those that post measurements just Stop please!! Nobody can accurately reproduce those numbers. Use your eyes and Do Not be excessive.

    Revolvers.... Redding Profile Crimp. Period.

    H

  4. #34
    Join Date
    2nd June 2007
    Location
    In the desert
    Posts
    281
    Posts liked by others
    3
    hoveyh: +1.
    Roll crimp is always a Profile Crimp Die.
    Taper crimp is ANY taper crimp die--never found any better than any other, except the Lee pistol FCD die has swaged my lead bullets, so they all are used for Bulge Busting or the carbide ring has been removed.
    If people would just paint their non-chambering round with a black marker (bullet and case) and do a Plunk test, they would discover the problem, correct it, and not "need" a pistol FCD
    NRA Life Member

  5. #35
    Join Date
    2nd December 2004
    Posts
    493
    Posts liked by others
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by hoveyh View Post
    I’ll confess to not reading all these pages... I’ve been reloading since middle 80’s...... auto’s get a Light taper crimp. Just enough to burnish the edge and stop. Those that post measurements just Stop please!! Nobody can accurately reproduce those numbers. Use your eyes and Do Not be excessive.

    Revolvers.... Redding Profile Crimp. Period.

    H
    The case needs to have the flare removed and not a whole lot more.
    It should end up more or less straght at that points snce carbide dies force the case into a straight wall configuration for the most part.
    The entire length of the shell down almost to the actual head is the same diameter.

    The expansion of the bullet and the small distance at the head the carbide ring cannot touch result in the 'coke bottle' look.
    It does not matter.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    2nd May 2008
    Posts
    6
    Posts liked by others
    0
    Iíve been reloading 15 diff cals starting in the early 80ís. We all have eyes and a sense of function. Of course the flare must be removed. You should Not be excessively flaring the case!! Very important! You Must also fully size the case. Especially if you pick up ones Glock brass!!!

    Once the proper steps have been set in to your press a shinny burnished edge will provide the optimum feeding and proper engagement with the chamber for head spacing. IF then there Is Not sufficient case tension on the projectile then you need to play with expander die dimensions. You Do Not fix that by screwing down your crimp die

    H

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