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Thread: New guy with new 1911a1pkzse. Couple questions.

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    New guy with new 1911a1pkzse. Couple questions.

    Just picked up a new AO 1911A1, PKZSE. I've had a few rifles and shotguns, but this is my first pistol. I have a lot to learn!
    Anyhow, here are my questions.
    While I was waiting for my gun to arrive, I watched a ton of detail strip videos and of course that's the first thing I wanted to do. My first problem was that I had pieces left over after reassembly! Well....that might be a bit of an exaggeration. There were two small parts I didn't see in any of the videos that I had a heck of a time figuring out where they belong. Both are small sheet metal parts that pivot, one on the sear pin, the other on the thumb safety pin. Just wanted to verify what they are and where they go before I shoot this thing! They seem to be in the right place after quite a bit of thinking and looking for where they go!
    Secondly, how do I remove the extractor? This gun has the little push-button to release the firing pin on the underside of the slide and the extractor seems to be catching on that. I tried pushing that while attempting to remove the extractor, but it didn't want to come out and I don't want to force it.
    Any help is appreciated! Looking forward to trying this thing out but I want to be sure it's right before I do!
    Thanks!
    Johnny

  2. #2
    Join Date
    8th August 2010
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    By the sound of it, your pistol is a "series 80" type design. The 2 pieces assemble on the right side of the frame and are used to depress the little spring loaded plunger on the underside of the slide. The purpose of this is to provide an added safety measure to the firing pin. The firing pin can not move forward to strike a primer unless the trigger is pressed. There have been cases of guns discharging from dropping them on terra firma. Once the pistol strikes a hard surface from a great enough height, inertia can allow the firing pin to strike a primer on a loaded round.
    This video may be helpful for reassembly.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nr5Wm9Y_CVs
    Beauty is skin deep but ugly goes right to the bone.

  3. #3
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    ncviking is correct. Here's a photo showing how the two parts fit together.



    They go in a recess on the right side of the frame, to the right (outside) of the hammer and sear. In the photo, the muzzle end is toward the right. You can't fire the gun without these parts, because the firing pin is blocked. Don't try to do it, because the little plunger in the slide will get nicked up.
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  4. #4
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    26th April 2017
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    Exactly what I needed! This confirms I got it right through trial and error.
    Any advice on the extractor?

  5. #5
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    The extractor is a little tricky because of that plunger.
    The extractor is held in place by the firing pin stop. The firing pin must be depressed into its tunnel to provide clearance for the firing pin stop to slide downward. In order to depress the firing pin, the plunger must first be depressed.
    First, get yourself 2 small pin punches... say about 3/16" or so. Use 1 to depress that plunger on the underside of the slide. While holding that depressed, use the other punch to press the firing pin forward. Usually, I use the punch as a lever of sorts and pull down on the firing pin stop. Once you get it moving downward, you won't need the punch on the plunger. Continue to move the firing pin stop till it clears the slide. Be careful, the firing pin is going to be under a little spring tension, so don't lose your parts. Remove the firing pin and spring and set it aside. Pull the extractor rearward out of its tunnel. You may need to either push it from the front or pry it from the rear to get it moving.
    Beauty is skin deep but ugly goes right to the bone.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Here's a slightly different way to detail strip the slide. A little bit easier, I think, because I use the firing pin safety plunger to help control the firing pin:

    I have fairly large (read: fat) fingers but I can press the plunger inward (up, as the slide is oriented) with my thumb, instead of a punch. Then with the plunger pressed and held, I use either a punch or a hex key (if you happen to have hex grip screws) to push the firing pin all the way forward. Then release the plunger. Release the firing pin. It should stay partially forward, clear of the firing pin stop. Use the hex key/punch to pull down on the firing pin stop. Then, put one hand behind the slide, cupped, and with the other hand press hard and fast on the plunger again. The firing pin and spring should fly backward, onto your cupped hand. If you didn't press hard enough on the plunger, the spring may not stay with the firing pin.

    Then comes the slightly tricky part: you need to move the extractor backward just a fraction, to release the plunger and plunger spring. From the breechface, push back on the hook of the extractor, until the rear of the extractor stands proud, a couple of fingernails' worth. You may need to wiggle it back and forth until they drop clear. Note the position of the extractor when they do, because you'll need it when reinserting them. Then remove the extractor the rest of the way, and you've taken the slide apart. Assemble in reverse order. Again, you can capture the firing pin with the plunger, to insert the firing pin stop nice and easy.

    For the frame, you can find a video showing how to deal with those pesky levers. A couple of tips: if you just rest the frameon a table on its right side, then push the levers around with a punch, one at a time, you might find it easier. Another one is to use a special short pin for the sear and disconnector, holding them aligned and in place, while keeping the lower FP safety lever in check. You can buy these special short cross pins, or you can make your own, using the plastic shaft of a cotton bud*, cut to the right length.


    *obviously cotton buds come handy when cleaning your slide's firing pin and extractor tunnels, as well as the disconnector hole on the frame. But be sure to take plenty of cotton buds from the bathroom cupboard BEFORE your hands get dirty with lead deposits, to keep the peace in your household..!
    Too many people miss the silver lining because they're expecting gold.
    M. Setter
    Likes (1) :
    ncviking (30th April 2017)


  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the help guys! Finally had time to take it apart again and all of your suggestions worked great!
    Hopefully I'll get a chance to finally put some rounds through it Sunday morning!
    Thanks again!

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