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Thread: 1911 A1 WW2 Reloading

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  1. #1
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    1911 A1 WW2 Reloading

    I am a newbe to this site but I have been reloading for about 35 years. My Dad passed away two years ago and my mother gave me his Colt 1911 A1 that he carried in Europe. He was a Ranger, after Normandy they were sent back to their old units his was out of Oklahoma. He was I forward observer for artillery for the rest of the war. I am shooting the gun, it is in great condition. That was his title in Rangers Weapons Expert. My question is how close to max reload should I get? I am loading 4.9 gr Titegroup with Fed. 150 primers and 230 FMJ bullets. They cycle great, feed great (my dad tuned his own magazines and hand honed the trigger and hammer). I just do not want to damage it because it is too important to me. Anyone know if the older 1911 can stand getting up to max reloads?

  2. #2
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    Do not put maximum loads in that old gun.
    Do not put a lot of standard loads in that old gun.
    The collectors will warn you that they were not fully heat treated and are not as strong as postwar 1911A1s.
    I have only seen one cracked slide in person but that was an immediate paperweight.

  3. #3
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    That is what I was thinking. My Dad had a lot of old ball ammo he purchased probably in the late 60s. This is the gun I learned to shoot with he showed me how to point and shoot not try to aim with old iron sights. He was a dead shot! Thanks for the info I will keep it and pass it to my grandson, along with a Mauser red 9 with orginal wood holster he brought back.

  4. #4
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    Heed the advice to keep your shooting of your father's 1911A1 to a minimum.

    You can get the same experience by purchasing one of the new 1911A1 pistols by Springfield Armory, Rock Island Arsenal and other makers at a reasonable price. A GI model can run as little as $450 and be everything you want.

  5. #5
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    That is what I intend to do. When I do shoot it I going to keep my loads as light as possible. But I do not intend to shoot it much. Like I said I have a 1991 A1 Colt Compact and I carry a SA XDS all in 45acp. I am looking to buy a good cheaper 5" Government type model. From your forum a lot of members like the Rock Island models. Anyone with a better solution will appreciate any comments. I conceal carry but now in Texas you can open carry, will not open carry but if someone sees your conceal carry gun through printing or clothes malfunction no foul. Thanks again for your input Great Site!!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pbiker85 View Post
    Anyone know if the older 1911 can stand getting up to max reloads?
    Definitely NOT! Stay at or below starting loads, and shoot as scarcely as possible.

    Suggested reading: http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.ph...nal-USGI-M1911
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  7. #7
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    At one time a parts dealer out of St Louis had a couple boxes of cracked slides for, I believe, $20 each. People bought them for the sights or to build long slides. Most had cracked on the left side of the ejection port slightly fwd of the breech face. Last Tulsa show a gentleman brought his parts pistol by the table. His RemUMC slide had cracked in the same place.

    Damaging a parts pistol slide from shooting is one thing; damaging a family heirloom is something else entirely. If you decide to shoot it again use nothing more powerful than standard ball, use fresh springs, use a shock buffer if possible, check the front sight constantly for any looseness. Still no guarantees but about all you can do.

  8. #8
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    That parts dealer was Ozark Surplus located in Poplar Bluff. I bought one of their last two slides. As it turned out, the slide was a rust bucket but was not cracked. I cleaned it up and charcoal blued it.

    That said, my Hodgdon load data sheet shows the maximum load for a 230 gr FMJ to be 4.8 grains of Tightgroup. Assuming that data sheet is current, your load might be too hot for any pistol, let alone a keepsake.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pyrenean View Post
    That said, my Hodgdon load data sheet shows the maximum load for a 230 gr FMJ to be 4.8 grains of Tightgroup. Assuming that data sheet is current, your load might be too hot for any pistol, let alone a keepsake.
    Dunno why I didn't think to check that. Good idea.

    Your data are current. I just checked the Hodgdon web site. They list two loads for Titegroup with 230-gr bullets. Both max out at 4.8 grains. For a LRN bullet the starting load is 4.0 grains, and for a FMJ flat-point the starting load is 4.4 grains.

    If it were my pistol and it had seen my father through a war, I wouldn't shoot it at all. I think the advice of the curator at Aberdeen Proving Grounds is spot on -- it only takes one shot to be THE shot that breaks it, and there is no way to predict which shot that's going to be.
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  10. #10
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    WRT reloading the .45 ACP cartridge for your father's 1911A1, I'd look at 200 grain plated - not FMJ - bullets from Berry or other maker. The copper plating prevents leading but is much softer than jacketed bullets and are to be shot at lead bullet velocities. I use them a lot in 9mm, .40 S&W and .45 ACP. I also cast bullets but like the convenience of the plated ones.

    The 200 grain bullets will be accurate and not nearly as hard on the gun as the 230 grain bullets if loaded properly. A good reference is Lyman's cast bullet manual.

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