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Thread: Remington R1 Models

  1. #11
    Join Date
    21st September 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ric4509 View Post
    Hmm! Interesting comments about the R1. I have a full size carry model that I have not fired. I guess it's time.
    Perhaps you could fieldstrip it first, and take a picture of the frame, specifically the barrel bed, looking at it at an angle, from the top and the front. Like this one:

    r1-frame1.jpg

    I'm asking because while the problem was definitely present in early R1 pistols, they've now been around for 5 years or more, and I don't remember seeing a recent one.
    Too many people miss the silver lining because they're expecting gold.
    M. Setter
    Last edited by Spyros; 15th April 2015 at 05:47.


  2. #12
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    I have an R1 Enhanced that I bought a few years ago. I shoot USPSA with it and have put ~10,000 rounds with it. I have had some trigger work, gamer magwell and changed out springs but it gets shot a lot. Biggest issue I had was an extractor break at the notch for the Series 80. I have used it pretty hard and the finish is not great after a lot of holster wear but still very happy with it. I pick up my Volkmann on Monday and this will probably get relegated to backup but this was a great first 1911. I have read enough horror stories about R1's (and kimbers, colts etc) that people have definitely gotten some lemons but mine has been great.

  3. #13
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    15th January 2008
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    nonlinr - any chance the extractor was contacting the chamber face? look for a mark on the barrel right side rear at about 3 O'clock.
    Last edited by 1911jim1941; 3rd May 2015 at 11:22. Reason: Can't type!


  4. #14
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    Jim, I will take a look although it happened last year and new extractor has been good but will take a look. Thanks.

  5. #15
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    15th January 2008
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    The reason I asked is that if the nose of the new one is also banging on the barrel, it will probably break some time. Assuming that the origin al extractor was not colliding with teh barrel and that it was not defective, it could also have broken because of rounds being "push fed" without the extractor hook being tuned to snap over them.

  6. #16
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    Well the extractor didn't break at the nose, so it doesn't seem to be related to the barrel.
    Too many people miss the silver lining because they're expecting gold.
    M. Setter

  7. #17
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    15th January 2008
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    Spyros - if the extractor breaks, it breaks at its weakest point. That could be at a sharp corner, at a thin point, at an internal void, etc. Why don't we wait until nonlinr can provide more data.

  8. #18
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    17th July 2011
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    Took a look and this extractor seems fine although I replaced the broken one with a Cylinder and Slide extractor that seems to work better. It seems a pretty good hypothesis though because the first extractor snapped at the cutout for the Series 80 plunger which made for a very interesting failure 7 rounds into the first stage of a match. I do very much appreciate your help and will make sure I take an extra look when I detail strip it before my next match. It is really filthy right now because I shot 500 rounds of Bullseye handloads so I cleaned the edge of the barrel and looked for some grease transfer. Thanks again for your help.

  9. #19
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    15th January 2008
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    nonlinr - A couple of things: One is to periodically check your fired brass. There should not be an extractor mark on the rear of the head of the cartridge case or on the rear rim of the extractor relief cut in the cartridge case. If there is a mark, you are having push feeds - the round is getting out of teh magazine ahead of the extractor, forcing the extractor to have to jump the rim of the case head (or fail to go to battery). Every now and then I load a magazine with all rounds having some particular mark (I normally use the "45" in the head stamp, but a dot from an indelible marker will work.) pointing up so that after firing I can see where the firing pin struck each primer and easily detect any other marking orientations (like an extractor mark). Also, if there are dents in the side of the fired cartridge case, knowing the original orientation of the cartridge in the magazine can help narrow down where to look for brass marks so you know where the brass is being struck. The second thing is just a one-time check. Look down into the open chamber to make sure that the extractor nose isn't protruding beyond the slide breech face block.

    It is really filthy right now
    An ideal time to look and see what's contacting what! I hate it when somebody brings me a clean pistol to check. If people would leave them dirty, problems would be much easier to spot!

    Good luck!
    Last edited by 1911jim1941; 5th May 2015 at 10:28. Reason: Can't Type!


  10. #20
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    I picked up an R1S a couple of years back. It's not fancy. It just works. I've never had any problems with it and accuracy is fine at self-defense distances. That's what I bought it for.
    They sicken of the calm, who knew the storm.
    ~ Dorothy Parker


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