I've been a long time lurker here and have learned a lot of good stuff from 1911Tuner, niemi24s and others that has helped me out with my 45s. I have a specific question on ejector and extractor tuning on my new DW Razorback 10MM.

Pause here for the obligatory gun porn.



After a few FTF hiccups with some old reloads, I switched to 75 rounds of American Eagle, Federal, and Hornady factory ammo. After the factory ammo, I went back to the reloads for another 50 rounds of 175 grain LSWC and 180 JHP. After the initial problems in the first couple of mags, all ammo fed and fired with no problems.

I have a minor ejection problem of brass hitting top of the slide on the upper right just behind the ejection port. Hopefully you can see it in the next picture. All the brass is ejected quite "energetically" (which I think would be expected with 10MM) up and to the right without any coming back into my face. I not real sure if the ejection pattern is consistent since I was firing at an outdoor range with an awning and the brass was hitting the ceiling.



I've got an idea from doing a search about what I want to do to solve the problem, but I just want to check with the 1911 gurus to make sure that techniques and solutions that work on 1911 45s will also work on the 10MM before I whip out the angle grinder.



Hopefully, you can see from the above picture that the ejector comes to a very sharp point. It is hitting the base of the shell casing at the 7 to 7:30 position and is leaving a small but sharp indentation. Based on the info on the forum, I'm thinking (which could be a BAD thing) of moving the point at which the ejector is hitting the brass up by filing off some of the material from the bottom front of the ejector, making it look like a wedge than a spear.

Also - is the internal extractor on the 10MM the same as the 45ACP?

Keep up the good work and thanks,
Pete

I'd think that there is too much rearward bevel on the ejector.

__________________
Ken
"I like Colts and will die that way"
"It seems to me that I have forgotten more than I remember"

This is just a hunch on my part but, whether it's the same or not, checking its tension should probably be the same. Tension checking procedures can be found in our Tech Issues section.

And I'd check the extractor tension (and adjust, if necessary) before doing anything to the ejector.

Regards

__________________
When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]

kenhwind and niemei24s - thanks for the replies. I'll trying adjusting the extractor first before working on the ejector. Should be a little easier to bend metal than put it back on. Of course, I have been know to break a bowling ball with a rubber mallet.

Pete

And before working on the ejector (if extractor tension fiddling doesn't fix it) it might be a good idea to get another ejector as a spare.

Kenhwind's comment about the ejector nose having too much rearward bevel may be the key, but correcting it would involve making the present ejector a little shorter. But it's an extended ejector now so making it shorter should be OK.

If you decide to whack on the nose, I'd suggest keeping it straight - but less slanted - by filing off at the bottom to just reduce the angle without removing any material from the top. About half that angle might make a significant difference, but you may have to make it nearly vertical.

Regards

__________________
When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]