The M1911 Pistols Organization Forums Site - is this normal, loose ejector
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This is an old thread. You can't post a reply in it. It is left here for historical reasons.Why don't you create a new thread instead?
 
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United States  Old 6th August 2004, 22:20
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is this normal

I am new to 1911's so my question may seem basic.
I have a new 1911 clone and after a few hundred rounds, i noticed the ejector became loose. just got it back and after about 40 rounds it appears to be loosening up again. is this a common thing and if so how loose is too loose???
what does the ejector do anyway? any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

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United States  Old 7th August 2004, 00:21
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No the ejector should be tight and not move at all. The ejector does what its name says.........it ejects the spent shell out of the port in the slide. The extractor pulls the spent shell casing out of the chamber as the slide is going back. It then contacts the ejector which in a sense throws it out of the port.

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United States  Old 7th August 2004, 11:25
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thanks

thanks for the timely response, it is appreciated.
any ideas as to why this may be happening ie eg timing or the ejector is too long or out of tolerance?

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United States  Old 7th August 2004, 12:14
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I see you have 2 threads started about the same thing. You might want to delete the other one.

What make is the gun, as some are glued in.

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United States  Old 7th August 2004, 18:06
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ejector

the gun is a charles daly efs1911-a1. i can see one pin...and some small tool marks where the mfgr worked on it.

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United States  Old 7th August 2004, 20:56
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There should be a cross pin that goes thru the frame and hold the ejector down onto the frame...........if the pin is installed correctly.

The ejector should not move at all, it should be solid as a rock. If it does move, there's a great chance that you'll start to get ejection jams. i.e., the spent shell won't eject correctly, or won't get out of the port in time for the slide to close.

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United States  Old 7th August 2004, 21:28
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I'm hoping that it isn't the frame that is goofed up. what you may want to do is avoid shipping and all that stuff and order a good one from maybe (ed Brown) drift the pin that holds the ejector in out, carefully pull the extractor out, don't brake the pins off or you got trouble, put the end brown in. you will have to cut the spot where the new drift pin goes first, and be done with it, Warranty smoranty, fix it yourself and get R done.

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United States  Old 7th August 2004, 21:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911slabsides
I'm hoping that it isn't the frame that is goofed up. what you may want to do is avoid shipping and all that stuff and order a good one from maybe (ed Brown) drift the pin that holds the ejector in out, carefully pull the extractor out, don't brake the pins off or you got trouble, put the end brown in. you will have to cut the spot where the new drift pin goes first, and be done with it, Warranty smoranty, fix it yourself and get R done.



Amen..........

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United States  Old 8th August 2004, 13:06
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think that this is the correct approach

Ther are no outward signs of the frame being compromised...but I guess I won't really know until I disassemble the ejector. In any case I am begining to think that this is the correct approach. I am going to order An Ed Brown ejector and pin (maybe two pins, rather have it and not need it than the other way around) and put it in myself. I will probably also get ahold of my step-son, who is deployed with the USAF and see what kind of super duper adhesive they use for their aircraft, if possible, and augment the new ejector and pin assembly with it. You mentioned "drift"...in my world a drift pin is tapered....is that the case here? which would indicate which way it is to be removed and re-installed.
I do appreciate all of the help and i thank you all.

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United States  Old 8th August 2004, 14:05
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I don't believe that the pin is tapered, I've changed a few and either I got lucky and always went the right direction or it straight. It's really not a major operation, you will have to cut a notch in the leg where the pin goes through, a quick hit with the dremel or a few passes with a file take care of that, The only real problem you can run into is having one of the legs break off inside the frame, be very careful in removing the old part, pull straight out don't bend and pry. I didn't use any adhesives or lock tite on mine usually the part holds real well with just the pin.

 




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