I have switched to a 17 pound recoil spring in my 5 inch 1911. How much do you think the extra pound of spring resistance decreases the life of the gun, due to the extra force of the returning slide?

I'm not 100% sure but I think the extra strength spring would increase the life of the weapon, not decrease it. It reduces the hammering from the slide cycling.

It's all going to depend on your ammo choices, slide to frame fit, FLGR or standard, your grip/shooting style, etc. There will, more than likely, be no perceptible durability loss/gain. Not that it's a problem by any means, but would you mind if I ask why you decided to change the spring weight?

I was having some feeding problems and FTRB and thought the extra spring weight might help matters. I took it to the range today, and really notice no difference in performance.

I'm not sure what other steps you have taken, but definitely check the extractor tension. I took some jewelers files to mine and beveled the appropriate edges. I also lightened the extractor in mine a little bit (it was really strong!). Also make sure it's not "clocking." Good luck and let us know how it goes!

I have checked the extractor tension and it seems fine. First thing I checked when the problems did not go away after breakin. How do you check for "clocking"?

Most often than not, the stronger recoil spring will only mask the problem not cure it. If going with a heavier spring "corrects" the RTB issue, it is simply applying greater force in jamming the round into battery. Also, springs work in both ways - a stronger spring not only slams the slide into battery faster, but it also retards the slide's rearward motion, too. This can cause issues with extraction and ejection.


Does your extractor turn within its channel with the firing pin stop (FPS) installed? On a properly fitted FPS, the extractor cannot twist; it is securely held in place and does not turn. A loosely fitted FPS can turn or "clock", changing the angle of the extractor claw and, consequently, effect how (and where) the empty brass is ejected.

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First of all, welcome on board.

Please keep in mind that springs work both ways, in other words, both when compressed but also when they are released. And while indeed a stronger spring lessens the battering of the frame by the slide, it also increases the battering of the barrel's legs, the slide stop and the slide stop holes, when the slide returns to battery.

Also, keep in mind that the 1911 was originally designed to work with a 14 lbs spring, the 16 lbs one is already 2 lbs above what John Moses wanted. So anything more than that, unless it is required by your ammo, is not helping your pistol.



Ah, I am sorry but how does a Full-Length Guide Rod affects the weight of the spring you should use in a pistol??



You are most probably right. One lbs won't make any significant difference, but the questions (like you said) is why?



As Tom said, you have just masked the problem, you didn't solve it. A 5" 1911 should be able to work fine with a 14 lbs spring. If it doesn't work with the 16 lbs one, the problem is NOT the spring.

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Mechanically there would be a slight difference, if only due to the friction caused by the FLGR against the spring. This wouldn't be perceptible unless it has been improperly fitted. Nevertheless, it is (albeit indirectly) relevant to his original question of durability. If you re-read the question, it wasn't a matter of changing spring weights due to having one or not. Mechanically, though it is a valid question (though I might have phrased it more properly to avoid a misunderstanding) if only to ensure that if one (FLGR) is used, it is not causing problems. Am I making more sense now, or have I convoluted the issue further?

Hilton Yam recommends a 17 lb recoil spring. That's the only endorsement I had to hear; put one in my TLE a few hundred rounds ago.