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This is the proper forum to use for troubleshooting, gunsmithing and refinishing questions.
If you have a problem with your pistol, this is the proper forum to ask for help. Before you do post your question though, you may want to have a look in the Gunsmithing Sticky Threads sub-forum, in here. We have collected several interesting articles in there, which can probably answer a lot of your questions. |
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Can an ejector be loose? Tuner?
The ejector on my SS Kobra Carry is loose. The back end lifts up a few thousandths. I don't recall it moving at all when the gun was new 6000 rounds ago. The gun still shoots fine. It's pinned into place so it probably won't get any looser than it is right now.
So. New ejector? Remove old one, spread rear pin, locktite and pin back into place or just leave it be? Any thoughts, especially from Tuner would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. |
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#3
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Whereas your ejector can't go anywhere, the slide houses it, it's something that I would prefer not to have happening.
I would get a new pin, and remove the old pin. Remove the ejector, clean all up, and see where the play is w/o pin. It's possible that just a new pin will fix things up. If so, adding a teeny touch of red or green to the studs should enhance the life of the setup. b- |
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#4
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The pin goes through the front leg. A new pin won't do anything if the back lifts.
The fact is, when a case hits the ejector, it's going to tend to push the back of the ejector down anyway. And the ejector is captive. I've shot 1911s that didn't have a pin. No problem. If it ain't broke ... don't fix it.
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Hawkmoon On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside
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#5
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As berk noted...even if it's loose, the ejector really can't move much as long as the channel in the slide is in light contact with the top of it...or nearly so.
That said...It's also not conducive to the mounting legs living long and prospering if there's a little play. Loosely mounted, and the ejector is slammed rearward with every impact. It won't take long for one or both of the legs to shear off in the frame. Depending on several factors, they can be pretty tough to remove. I've been able to rap the frame on a benchtop and dislodge them within a few whacks...and I've had to set the frame up in a mill vice and use a stub center drill...followed by a small twist drill and an EZ-Out. If the twist drill happens to snap off flush with the frame rail...which can happen if you don't get the set-up just right...things can get truly interesting. Go ahead. Ask me how I know... ![]()
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#6
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I'd call Ed Brown and have them send you a new one with a new pin.
Even though it can't escape in normal circumstances if it moves it'll gradually move more. Wear happens to parts that work against each other. |
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Quote:
Thanks for the response. I've also gained some wisdom the same way. If I can ask a bit more.... What causes the ejector to work loose in the first place? And would you just repin and locktite the old one or would you replace it with a new ejector as well? I've also heard of removing the ejector, peening the rear leg for a tighter fit and reinstalling it. Any thoughts on that? |
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#10
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Quote:
Improper installation...specifically, when the groove is cut for the pin. Correctly done, the pin should pull the ejector down tightly against the frame. Repinning it with the same pin isn't likely to correct it because the groove size and location is the problem. The other part of the problem is the leg and hole diameters. If the difference is great enough to allow a little movement...the ejector will move eventually...which leads to impact stresses that work to shear the leg and/or wallow the hole.
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