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Please keep in mind that M1911.ORG is not responsible for any handloads presented in here, by members. Use basic handloading precautions when trying out new loads. Always compare to existing published data, from reputable sources. Use common sense when reading handload recipes.
This forum is to be used for questions pertaining to 1911 calibers. Do not use it to ask questions about ammo for other firearms or for ammo that a 1911 was never chambered for. |
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#2
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Hi
Very nice article. I think the pictures are *great*. Good job !!!! Bob |
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#4
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Great article Hunter! Very thorough and easy to understand. I've been thinking of casting for awhile so this was a timely addition to the e-zine.
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Quote:
Interesting... I'm glad they're getting re-used. I'm going to go speak with some of the dealers in my area today, trying to get ahold of some weights (and i'll report back what i find out).
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Eli |
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Eli I have found out that the larger chain shops do as John said and sell them back to battery manufactures but many of the smaller tire stores either recycle them or throw them away.
Lead has increased in price so the days of free wheel weights are going away but not unheard of. Drop by the local tire stores and talk with the managers. There are a few that still give me the wheel weights but most not get anywhere from $5 to $20 a 5 gallon bucket full. Worst case scenario I have found was $20 but out of a 125 pound bucket you will get around 100 pounds of usable lead (I am estimating). There is 7000 grains to a pound so if you are casting 200 gr bullets that is 35 bullets per pound or 3500 bullets per 100 pounds. So not counting your time that is still about 3500 bullets for $20. The Lyman Cast bullet handbook is essential to the hobby and the ABCs of Reloading is nice to have. Thanks yall for the kind words, I am glad John let me do this as I am hoping it will explain somethings about casting.
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From my cold dead hands. If it ain't a Colt its a copy. |
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#8
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Very nice review, this is stilll a bit over my head but I still love to learn about things that I am clueless about.
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Well Hunter you are a pretty good student and you have written a very concise article on our hobby. I would ease up a tad on the amount of flux you are using and to new casters make sure you stir it in. As the flux works all the impurities will rise to the top.
For those interested in making their own lube check out the following formula for Felix Lube. Named after Felix R. who put it together: 2 Tablespoons mineral oil 1 Tablespoon castor oil 1 Tablespoon Ivory, or homemade soap (grated) 1 Tablespoon Lanolin Beeswax - Piece approximately 3 1/2" X 3 1/2" X 1 " Heat mineral (baby) oil until it starts to smoke. Add castor oil, and stir continuously for 1/2 hour. Sliver the soap, and stir into the mixture a little at a time, until melted. Add the beeswax before the lanolin, and then when that is melted, reduce or remove the heat and add the lanolin, thus not running any risk of burning or scorching the lanolin. 1 teaspoon of carnuba wax can be added to give a shiny bore. This can be found on the seal of Makers Mark whiskey, or the red wax on cheese from the supermarket. Once made, let cool. This can be remelted in a microwave, and poured into the lubrisize This lube works for me in both pistol and rifle. Take Care Bob
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Virtus Junxit, Mors Non Separabit There is no one more persistent than a liberal with a bad idea. |
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Kudos
Hi Hunter:
Excellent piece of work - especially the pictures. This will be a great thing for those wondering about casting their own. One teeny point: In the Bullet Sizing And Lubricating section, paragraphs 2 and 3, the word "bore" should be replaced with "groove". Bore/land diameter for a 1911 is about 0.443 inch, groove diameter's about 0.451 inch. Have you tried writing your name with lead poured from the dipper yet? Gives me something to do if the mold gets too hot! Cheers |
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