Disclaimer: These are the results of my trying to assemble an inexpensive 1911-a1. This is not a flame, but a listing of my snags / problems encounter. Results of other people may differ.

I wanted to see if I could assemble a 1911A1 in an inexpensive manner. I won a Double Star frame on www.gunbroker.com for $90.00 and purchased this kit from www.sportsmansguide.com.

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When I received the kit, I pre-fitted all parts to check for fit. Initial indications were:

1. The barrel bushing had 1/16” movement when assembled.
2. The barrel hood had approx 1/16” gap to the breech face.
3. The slide was used. The firing pin hole enlarged. The area where disconnector rides had large machine marks. The ejector did not fit flush on the rear. When assembled, the slide sat approx 1/8" forward on the frame
4. The slide to frame fit was really loose.
5. The slide would not retract when complete assembly was put on the frame.
6. The sear had noticeable play when prefitted on pin
7. The Main spring retainer pin hole of the Main spring housing had to be drilled out


To check compatibility of parts, all were tried on a park Springfield Armory and a Charles Daly I have.

To date: I’ve replaced:

1. Barrel Bushing, $14.00
2. Slide, $75.00
3. Barrel, $69.00
4. Sights for new slide, $30.00
5. Barrel link, $0.00 (had on hand)

So far, I’ve $513.00 in parts cost (this does not include shipping and taxes), and I still do not have a 1911A1 that I feel confident in. I still have to replace other parts.

Again, This is my experience only and to show what problems may be encountered should someone decide to follow.

Hate to say it, but you get what you pay for.

The absolute bottom-end parts I'll work with are Essex frames and McCormick parts. Starting with that platform, you are going to spend right around $500 in parts to have a carry/CDP/Lim-10 pistol to your general specifications.

Let me spend about $1,200 and I'll build a STI up right. $1,800 in parts makes an Open gun, again going top-shelf all the way.

Trying to save money on parts only ends in dejection...I'm new to the game (only been building guns for a decade and a half now), but I'd spare anyone else the learning curve I...and you...went through! Better to buy a entry-level Springfield or Kimber (used), and then rebuilding it as it should have come out of the factory if lawyers didn't walk the Earth



Alex

I've had some experience on 1911A1's. This was posted only to show people that trying to save bucks does not work all the time. I thought that I would try to do as many home gunsmith's would do and report my "savings". I have always thought that "cheap" may not be inexpensive, but inexpensive is "cheap". I hope others will learn from this

Hi, im not really experienced in assembling 1911's but i have done it twice. I purchased all the parts (frame, slide, barrel, etc...) to make a 1911 from a gunstore who distributes SAM. I bought everything for around $260. Maybe i got lucky, or since all the parts were brand new and coming from one manufacturer my pistol turned out okay. My pistol is still okay after 250 rounds through it.

My second pistol was also made with a SAM frame and slide, with a lot of parts from a USGI pistol (the barrel, grip safety, trigger, slide safety and the recoil spring assembly). I had a failure to eject problem but i sorted it out, fired 150 rounds through it and it is still going strong. I spent $180 for the pistol. The USGI parts came from my Uncle who gave it to me as he has no more use for it. He used to be a gunsmith and has lots of parts for me to choose.

I did not use high end parts for the pistol since stateside parts are very expensive here in the Philippines, and i guess there is not much i can do with a SAM as a base for a gun project. It was done more for the fun of building my own 1911 than anything else. I really enjoyed doing it. I had a lot of help from forum members and from J.kuhnhausen's book.

__________________
I love the smell of gunpowder in the morning...

This is a pretty old thread, but if anybody is interested I have also built a .45 based on a Double Star fram, so I thought I would add my 2 cents worth.

I started with a Doble Star frame, got a Sprinfield Armory "GI" (their cheapest model) .45 slide and barrel (with bushing, extractor and firing pin) off of Ebay. I completed the frame with a Chip McCormick hammer and sear - Wilson thumb and grip safeties, unknown disconnector and trigger from Ebay (allegedly Nowlin, but I have doubts), Wilson springs and pins, Nowlin plunger tube and some old pachmeyer grips I had in a drawer.

I guess I just got lucky, because after one false start with a crappy extractor and ejector from Ebay (changed to Springfield Armory for both) it functions flawlessly and is unusually accurate. I really like the Doble Star products. I have built an AR-15 and a 1911 with Double Star parts and both function perfectly and both have better accuracy than I have had from Colt factory guns in the past.

I would say throw out the big parts kit, but keep your Double Star frame.

I put a gun together using a Double Star frame. It was the easiest one I ever did. The slide is a USGI hard slide. The barrel is a USGI chrome lined and the rest of the parts are left over GI, and Springfield and Colt take offs. It is the only 1911 that I ever put together where all I had to do was stake the plunger tube and assemble the rest. The USGI ejector was already notched and the USGI extractor was already tensioned. The mag has a Horsey on the bottom and it works in all of my guns. I shoots like a box stock pistol. The frame rails are not exceptionally tight. The radius under the slide stop is a bit high causing the slide stop to over hang a little. Not a problem just looks a little funny. It ain't real impressive but I don't mind sticking under the seat in my truck.

All of those parts I used can be had for a little bit more than Masen or Sportsmans Guide junk but then I am a parts scrounger since 1992 and know the good from the bad.

Don't think I'd use a Double Star to build up something really nice though as put together guns aren't worth much for resale. Especially when they got funny names on the frame that most no one ever heard of.

Thought I'd throw in a few more words. Stumbler, I know your pain, been there. My first gun was a an Essex/Remington Rand/Masen/ USGI. Essex can't get there pin holes located worth a poop as I had to waller the MSH retainer pin hole out in the MSH to get it to fit the frame. Also the slide locked up about an eighth inch foward of the back of the frame. Surprisingly the gun functioned but it were'nt pretty. Essex is kinda like Auto Ordnance. They might be making the best stuff there is now (I'd have to get a free one and see it to believe it) but until they change there name I'll never buy another.
Consider your junk gun tuition and make the next one a Caspian or better base.

One other thing building guns is a whole lot more expensive than just buying one but it sure is fun and addictive too

You get what you pay for. I wouldn't touch anything from the Sportsman's Guide; they sell crap. The last pistol I built started with a Para P-16 frame and Caspian slide. I bought the rest of the parts from Brownells. No problems.

Gammon, That is exactly what I would like others to know. I have found that when I purchase an inexpensive part (trying to save money), I have (90% of the time) had to purchase another because the part did not fit, broke, for some other reason. You get what you pay for. Always go for the best that one can afford.


I'm surprised that this thread is still alive!
Thanks for your input.

Believe those Double Stars are made/sold by an outfit near Lexington, Ky., correct? Might be interesting to contact the pistolsmiths in that area and see what THEY have to say about building up a gun on those frames. If they cuss you out or quickly turn ya down, that may be construed as a "clue" as to quality.

Seems as though there's a 'smith outfit called "Gemini"-something or other around Frankfort, Ky. Could be interesting to ask them about the Double Stars..