I have a couple of questions about my new CQB. When I purchased it, for some reason it was missing the owners manual and bushing wrench.

First off, I have seen the "avoid" list for ammunition that Wilson gives, but don't know what brands of ammo Wilson suggests? Any recommendations? The piece of paper that came with the CQB shows that it works flawlessly with 800-850 fps velocities, but I thought that JHP need 900+ fps for reliable expansion? I am an HK fanatic, and really like DoupleTap and Ranger ammunition. Will these two manufacturers work well with my CQB?

Second, Wilson is sending me another packages that contains the owner's manual and bushing wrench, but I think it is the plastic wrench. Is this good enough, or should I purchase a metal one?

Lastly, what is the Shok-Buf system? Is it a good upgrade to purchase and what exactly does it do? Any feedback on this would be very helpful.

Thanks.

A metal bushing wrench "COULD" scratch/mar the finish ....plastic should be ok
AVOID the shock buff, if your gun is setup right it is useless

+1 on the above. As for ammo, a pistol like the CQB should be reliable with any commercial, standard pressure ammunition. And there is no need to go to +P rounds, the .45 ACP in its standard loadings is pretty effective.

__________________
John Caradimas SV1CEC
The M1911 Pistols Organization
http://www.m1911.org

1) I don't see any need for (nor have I ever used) a bushing wrench in a 1911 pistol with a "standard" length (short) guide rod. My CQB came stock with the standard length rod and is easy to disassemble without a wrench. Having said that, if you must use a wrench, I would recommend plastic over metal for "finish" considerations.

2) As for ammunition - any good "standard pressure" ammunition should be just fine. Federal is a favorite of mine - their American Eagle is great for practice and their Hydra-shok is great for defense. If you want "velocity", the Federal Hyrda-shok 165 grain 45ACP (standard pressure - NOT +P) comes out of the barrel at 1060 fps and is said to have less recoil than the standard 230 grain offering. (Although, I must admit that I am curious about +P ammo in my CQB as I have seen a few interesting offerings in this genre)

3) A Skok-Buf is a shock absorber between the frame and the slide. The only reason to avoid them that I can think of is that some 1911 pistols don't function reliably with one installed (probably because the recoil spring is too long when compressed i.e. wire too thick and/or too many coils). Having said that, my CQB has had one installed from birth and has functioned flawlessly with it for about 1000 rounds so far... Hmmm, that reminds me, it's about time to change it...

Good luck with your new CQB - I hope you love yours as much as I love mine...

1.) My CQB will eat anything. I try and stick to AmEagle 230gr FMJ for the range and I use Pow'R'Ball for defense because they are hot, accurate, expand reliably and I trust the bullet profile to always work (In my opinion, 1911's are designed to shoot ball ammo, so when you are trusting your life to one, why would you push your luck ?)

2.) I like the Shock Buffs. They shorten the stroke of the slide a bit when they are new, but that's never presented me with a problem. The first time you replace one and see how beat up it is, you will appreciate the fatigue life it probably saved your gun for what, a dollar?
Nothing lasts forever, you know - and when you hit a rock with a hammer a thousand times and it shatters on the last lick, trust me - it ain't just that last lick that did it.

3.) I like full length guide rods on ANY 1911. I think they make them operate more smoothly and keep the spring tension more consistent. When I got my CQB I ordered that full length tungsten job to give me more weight on the front end, really calms down the muzzle flip. People always argue about guide rods, but usually when you see a manufacturer's top of the line gun, it will have one, for whatever reason. Please, all of you guys with short rods, I am not trying to make a case either way, just expressing my preference.

Great choice you made there, I know you will enjoy it.
Happy shooting.

Just one comment or two, on the buffs front.

Do you think that such a thin piece of plastic has much shock absorbing capability? You see the damage on them, after they are used, but how can you be sure that they are not passing the exact same force to the frame, thus getting damage themselves too? How come that a properly sprung pistol can go on the same shock buff for thousands of rounds?

Sorry folks, as for the guide rods, please feel free to do as you like, but until someone proves these things to me, I remain skeptical. If JMB believed that such a thing would be helpful for his pistol, he would have invented it.

__________________
John Caradimas SV1CEC
The M1911 Pistols Organization
http://www.m1911.org

John,
Yes, I believe that the shock buff has sufficient elasticity to absorb a percentage of the shock force (kind of like your pneumatic tires do when you run over a rock in the road), and, also, perhaps just as important, it SPREADS the load more uniformly so as not to point load one or two concentrated areas in the shear plane at the back of the guide rod.
As far as what JMB would have done, and I hope this is not considered blasphemy on this forum, ALL of the modern improvements that have been made on the original design, and that we have now become accustomed to, are testimony to the fact that the old boy did leave some room for improvement in several areas, let alone that he did not have the technological resources we have today in the way of advanced plastic polymers, lightweight alloys, tritium, and CNC machining technology.
Anyway, I lift a glass to the old man on a near regular basis, his genius is still the heart and soul of the weapon, and don't forget we were barely at the onset of the industrial revolution when he designed this weapon for the masses....Lord only knows what he would be coming up with if only he were alive here and now.
As far as the full length guide rod goes, I dare anyone who has not used a full length guide rod to try one and see if it doesn't smooth out the cycling, not to mention that it assists in loading the recoil spring uniformly, every shot. Picture what the front end of the recoil spring on a gun with a half length guide rod must look like during the firing cycle - it just sproinks all over the place, contained only by an oversized space. On the full length rod, it compresses the same every time, thus giving you more consistent tension and wearing evenly instead of randomly buckling at the weakest point in the spring for each different shot.

dogdollar,

Thanks to you and the others for all you feedback. I'm very new to 1911's and was wondering if you can explain to me why people say that full length guide rods make it more difficult to disassembl/assemble the pistol. I must be doing something wrong when I took my CQB apart and put it back together for the first time because it seemed to be difficult pushing the spring in without it having a full length rod to ride upon. To me, it appeared that the spring was bending in crazy ways. Since my pistol was missing the owner's manual (which Wilson is sending me one), I followed the video. This video was also missing when I purchased, but my dealer had one he included. The video was from the early 90's, and was difficult to view. I followed it best I could during the cleaning, but the takedown and reassemble was on a full length guide rod equiped pistol.

The very last step to my reassembling, other than moving the barrel bushing back into place, was to decompress the spring. Did I do this correct, or should the spring be pushed back and the barrel bushing pushed back into place prior to fitting the slide back on the frame?

Lastly, I too feel the only drawback to the CQB is the light muzzle. I understand that on a tactical pistol, you want a fast swinging pistol, but I prefer more weight on the front-end. Would I be screwing anything up by going with a Wilson tungsten full-length rod?

Well, I don't pretend to be a gunsmith or a 1911 expert, either, but there sure are plenty of each on this forum so I will go ahead and try to address your problem(s).
When you reassemble, you want the slide upside down (resting on the sights) with the barrel engaged into the lugs. Then, thread the spring onto your guide rod, making sure that the "tight" end (the end with a couple of tight turns) is the end you thread onto the guide rod. NOTE: THIS IS NOT TRUE OF ALL SEMI-AUTO GUNS, BUT IS TRUE FOR THE 1911 AND FAMILY.
Now, put the bushing in (OVER THE END OF THE BARREL) and rotate it clockwise and up out of the way. Next make sure the link is laying down flat and thread the spring out through the end of the slide, setting the end of the guide rod down where it goes (against the link clevis). I like to try and lean the link up against the center of the little hollow spot in the center of the guide rod, but you will find your own way. Now turn the frame upside down, line up the rails, and slide the frame onto the slide until you see the link through the slide stop hole. If it is lined up perfectly, push in the slide stop and buy a lotto ticket. If not, find something to stick in there and get that link lined up. I use those bamboo shish-kabob skewers they sell at the grocery store. This is when the baby starts crying, the phone rings, and a mosquito starts biting you on the neck. Anyway, once you have the slide stop engaged into the link and both sides of the frame (but no more), keep pushing the slide back until the alignment notch will let you push the slide stop the rest of the way in. BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH YOUR GUN - TRY TO ENGAGE THE CYLINDER IN THE PLUNGER TUBE WITH THE FOOT OF THE SLIDE STOP BEFORE IT HITS THE SIDE OF THE SLIDE, THEN PUSH UP AND IN.
Now, push the slide forward, put your plug on your spring, and feed it into the housing, pushing with your thumb on the plug and guiding the spring in with the other hand, if necessary. You will notice the plug has a "shoulder" on it. You can keep the cap mashed in with your thumb and swing the bushing in to just engage that shoulder, then you can release and take a swig of beer.
After that you can either go commando and depress again with your thumb, going all of the way this time, or, you can finish with a bushing wrench. I like the bushing wrench. one more thing, dude......
WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES. THE SPRING AND PLUG CAN COME FLYING OUT IF YOU LOSE YOUR GRIP AND WILL TAKE OUT AN EYE. THIS IS ESPECIALLY BAD IF IT IS YOUR "STRONG" OR SHOOTING EYE.
Hope this helps.

As far as ease of assembly/disassembly and what effect the length of the guide rod has to do with it, I don't see it making a huge difference, but I am used to a full length guide rod. Want something hard to take down ? Try a new Les Baer. I would rather clean an alligator.

About the tungsten guide rod: I think they are overpriced, but they are a drop in part and do exactly what you describe with regard to adding weight to the front end. Tungsten, by weight, weighs about three times more than stanless, so don't cheap out and expect to get the same thing.
Make sure they send along the reverse plug.

As for the video you are waiting on, don't expect it to be current or filled with pearls of wisdom. My goodness, does EVERYONE in Berryville have a mullet?

Welcome to 1911's and to the forum, but be warned......these guns are addictive.
Happy shooting !!!!!

Thank you very, very much! I don't think I even need the manual after you explained that to me. If your not a teacher, you have another profession waiting for you. The only question I have is this:

While placing the spring on the guide rod, it seemed to me the tight end (where the last two coils are close together) was unable to slide onto the rod. It was too tight and looked as if it would stretch the spring, so I turned it around and have the more loose end on the rod.

Oh, I also noticed that even after just one field strip, the cap (don't know its exact term) that goes over the spring where the bushing slides over is already showing some scratches from rotating that bushing over it. Did I do something wrong, or is this common due to re-positioning the bushing? Since it is black, it looks worn and would think that the reverse plug you mentioned with a full-lenght rod would not look so worn due to it being tungston or stainless. What do you think? Do I need to push the cap down more while re-positioning the bushing?

Sorry for these amateur questions and I know I could just wait to get my manual, but I'm so used to my Glocks and HK's, these 1911's are a little tricky for me.