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Thread: Sear Spring Adjustment

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  1. #11
    Join Date
    1st June 2004
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    Washington State
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    I've not seen reduced trigger pull sear springs, but have seen reduced trigger pull main (hammer) springs. These are the springs that go in the main spring housing.
    The stock weight is 23lbs., the lowest I would go is 20lbs. I've seen them lighter.........Wilson routinely uses 18 & 19 lb springs to get their 3.5lb pulls.
    If it isn't durable, it isn't reliable.

  2. #12
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    21st April 2005
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    I haven't seen one of those springs either. I have seen kits (C&S is one supplier) advertising pull weights.

    My experience has been a 21# mainspring with a Wolff sear spring set at 16 ozs. on the disconnector and 16 ozs. on the sear results in a range of from 3 to 4 pounds, depending on how well the rest of the trigger parts are fitted.

    Again, as I'll always say, this is not a kitchen table gunsmithing project. Unless you really know what's going on, disastrous results can happen. Let a qualified gunsmith do it for you, if you lack the experience.
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  3. #13
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    The brain just engaged. Are we talking about a Clark sear spring, the one with 4 legs? The extra leg is on the trigger bow and is designed to eliminate trigger bounce on "light" trigger jobs.

    That would still need to be set correctly.

    I still can't see just taking a sear spring out of a package and dropping it in and saying it's good to go, without first checking it out.
    Aut viam inveniam aut faciam

  4. #14
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    21st August 2004
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    Thanks for the responses. I saw it on Midway USA site. It stated it would reduce the pull strength by 1 1/2 Lbs. It is item # 188154. The sear spring looks thinner on the left leaf.
    I have a reduced main. I am currently using a 19# for light target loads (my factory was 28#'s) but the factory trigger pull is still to high for target shooting.
    So what is involved to reduce the tigger pull? What does the smith actually do?
    Again thanks for the feedback.
    Last edited by whoop; 31st May 2005 at 15:52.


  5. #15
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    1st June 2004
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    Checked the Midway part, that's the way the Colt factory sear springs look.

    The 'smith will mate the sear to the hammer hooks, stone a proper relief angle, see what lb of main spring is needed (23lb factory, no less than 20lb for a carry gun, my opinion here) and adjust the sear spring. All that can take anywhere from an hour to hours depending on how cooperative the gun is. Meaning if its in spec or not. There are some factors that come into play whether the job is straight forward or a pain in the petute!

    I think some parts on the market today are for the do it yourself kinda guy, but in reality they still need to be adjusted to each gun, as each gun can be off just enough to cause problems. And if you've not done it before or don't have a thorough understanding of the gun, have it done.

    I would stay away from that type of sear spring and get a better quality part, such as a Colt, Wolff, or Brown. Nowlin used to make good sear springs, but have had problems with them lately.
    If it isn't durable, it isn't reliable.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    23rd January 2005
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    Mainsprings

    Scheschy:

    I definitley agree w/ Wichaka on the mainspring recommendation! I tried a 19lb. mainspring as an experiment to get the last "ounce" of reduction on the trigger pull...and was promptly greeted with a few of the "last round of mag stucketh upeth" due to the increased slide velocity. A return to the original 23-pounder and all was good. The majority of parts in a 1911 are inter-twined pretty tightly; any modifications often need to be well-balanced & carefully executed.

    mitchjoe

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