Welcome to the forum!
I use factory Colt sear springs, they make them just like Wolff, Nowlin, Brown and the like, and are a bit less money, and are very well made.
The first thing that will affect your trigger pull is engagement of the sear into the hammer hooks. After that, you fine tune the pull using the sear springs middle and left leaves.
As perry1963 pointed out above, the middle leaf has 2 functions, it resets the trigger, or forces it forward after each shot, and it functions the disconnector. The disconnector is what keeps your 1911 from going full auto on you, so if the spring is not tensioned properly, or is bent out of shape enough it can make the disconnector sticky........which is not good.
The left leaf bears down on the sear itself, forcing it to engage into the hammer hooks. The adjustment on this one is important too, as too little tension can cause the same problems as well as having the hammer follow the slide forward coming to rest on the 1/2 cock notch.
If you re-adjusted your sear spring back and now have 3lbs on the trigger, what was it before? I ask as for most situations like concealed carry I would advise a trigger above 4lbs and closer to 5. Just a margin of safety, should your trigger finger get excited.
Be careful not re-adjust the sear spring too many times..........that will weaken it and it won't hold its proper tension for very long. Always bend it just above where the leaves separate from the main base of the spring. Especially the center leaf that rides on the disconnector. The bottom of the disconnector has an angle on it, if the spring leaf doesn't match that angle, you've got trouble.
I have on occasion re-arced the sear leaf to get better contact and pressure on the sear, but that's in rare cases.
If it isn't durable, it isn't reliable.