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Thread: Trigger Overtravel

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    31st January 2006
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    38

    Trigger Overtravel

    I see the allen screw in the trigger of my Kimber and understand that it is to adjust for "trigger overtravel". I'll ask a dumb question - what is trigger overtravel?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    1st June 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    7,965
    The amount the trigger will continue to move after the hammer drops.
    If it isn't durable, it isn't reliable.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    31st January 2006
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    38
    Thanks, that makes sense.

  4. #4

    Trigger Overtravel

    Quote Originally Posted by wichaka
    The amount the trigger will continue to move after the hammer drops.
    Let me shed some light on my lack of knowledge

    I too have noticed the screw on the trigger of my Custom II. Is adjusting this screw recommended for mere mortals like me or is it something that should be done under the watchful eye of a gunsmith? Will it have any affect on the weight of the trigger pull?

    Thanks in advance!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    19th December 2004
    Location
    Elmhurst, IL
    Posts
    1,466
    Quote Originally Posted by bharen
    Let me shed some light on my lack of knowledge

    I too have noticed the screw on the trigger of my Custom II. Is adjusting this screw recommended for mere mortals like me or is it something that should be done under the watchful eye of a gunsmith? Will it have any affect on the weight of the trigger pull?

    Thanks in advance!
    It is extremly easy to do, if you can screw in and unscrew a screw and pull the trigger then you can do it. As far as trigger pull I'm not sure but it will remove overtravel which makes a better trigger. In order to adjust it screw it in until you can't make the hammer fall when you pull the trigger, then slowly unscrew it while checking as soon as the hammer starts to fall when the trigger is pulled unscrew another 1/4-1/2 turn and you'll be good to go.
    "NGFL"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    7th December 2004
    Location
    Conifer, Colo.
    Posts
    261

    Overtravel

    If you have owned and worked on 1911's for awhile, you can probaly do your own overtravel adjustments. Just make those adjustments in VERY small increments...!!! Question #2....No...
    "When in doubt, empty the magazine"..!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    8th June 2004
    Location
    Surf City, CA
    Posts
    575
    If you haven't changed the trigger, then it's best to just leave it alone since Kimber sets them at the factory and uses threadlocker to keep them in place.

    It will have no affect at all on the trigger pull weight.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    1st June 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    7,965
    Quote Originally Posted by Moose63845
    It is extremly easy to do, if you can screw in and unscrew a screw and pull the trigger then you can do it. As far as trigger pull I'm not sure but it will remove overtravel which makes a better trigger. In order to adjust it screw it in until you can't make the hammer fall when you pull the trigger, then slowly unscrew it while checking as soon as the hammer starts to fall when the trigger is pulled unscrew another 1/4-1/2 turn and you'll be good to go.
    Moose stated it very well.......

    If that last part isnt done, you'll ruin your trigger pull weight and/or how it feels.......as the sear wont clear the hammer hooks completely.
    If it isn't durable, it isn't reliable.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    29th May 2004
    Location
    Athens, Greece, Earth
    Posts
    27,391
    Blog Entries
    2
    OK, maybe we should make a sticky for this one.

    The overtravel screw adjusts the travel of the trigger, after it releases the sear from the hammer, i.e. after the hammer falls. It has no effect on the trigger pull.

    Why it is there? So that when you pull the trigger, and after the hammer falls, there is not too much travel. The more the trigger travels to the rear, the more it will have to travel to the front, to reset the firing mechanism, so this is time lost, between your first and second shot.

    If on the other hand there is no travel after the hammer drops, there are some serious issues. First the sear nose, as Wichaka explains, drug on the hammer and can destroy a perfectly good trigger job. Second, since your finger is pressing back on the trigger, even after the hammer falls (for some fractions of a second), and since you are now pressing the trigger on the frame, there is a possibility that the aiming of the pistol is affected (usually the shots will go low), becaise you are moving the frame, while the bullet is still in the barrel. Splitting hair? Most probably, but I like my trigger to have some overtravel.

    And that screw DOES NOT AFFECT THE TRIGGER PULL!
    John Caradimas SV1CEC
    The M1911 Pistols Organization
    http://www.m1911.org

  10. #10
    Well, I have been making trigger travel adjustments to various paintball markers for several years now. I used to be in the business of anodizing... Anyway, as far as trigger pull and travel on my Kimber, it feels just right, out of the box. I woulsn't want it any lighter, for saftey's sake, and I think the overall pull is short enough. It initially had some creep before the hammer would drop, but now after 1300 rounds, it snaps beautifully. Last Sunday at the range, I had people complimenting both my .45, and my shooting, so I guess it's adjusted fine and broken in. Unless you notice a real long jump after the hammer falls, I wouldn't mess with the factory overtavel setting.

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