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Thread: How is the Colt Defender frame finished?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    27th November 2008
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    How is the Colt Defender frame finished?

    .

    Hello all.

    I don't know how far back in time the Defender goes, or if any production changes have occurred over the years.
    But my question concerns recently produced Defenders, over the past 2-3 years up to the present.

    Does anyone know how Colt finished the frames?

    The surface is some sort of Cerakote-ish finish.
    (This is not my main concern, but if anybody knows how Colt specifies that "coating" I would be interested to know.)

    What about UNDER the Cerakote-ish finish?
    Anything?
    Is the Cerakote-ish material just applied directly to the alloy frame?
    Or is the frame anodized first, then "coated"?

    Bonus question would be: if the frame IS anodized do we know what type anodizing? Type II? Type III?

    Much obliged if any Colt sleuths know this information!

    James

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    1911 Epiphany
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  2. #2
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    8th August 2010
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    I am interested to find out too. My TALO Night Defender is getting quite worn on the frame (and slide) from multiple presentations a day. After I retire her from EDC, I'd like to get her refinished.
    Beauty is skin deep but ugly goes right to the bone.

  3. #3
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    21st September 2008
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    Since the coating requires that the part be prepared prior to spraying by getting glass-bead blasted, so the surface has some 'tooth' for the finish to grab onto, any underlying anodizing would suffer... unless I'm missing something. Plus, if they were anodized to begin with, why spend more money to Cerakote them?
    Too many people miss the silver lining because they're expecting gold.
    M. Setter

  4. #4
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    27th October 2009
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    i agree with Spy, the only reason to cerakote over anodizing would be for a color change. Type II blasts off pretty easily compared to III. I use Aluminum oxide as it gives more "tooth" than beads. i only try to dull Type III or it'll take all day
    You never pay too much for a Colt...you may just buy it a little early

  5. #5
    Join Date
    21st September 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashmesajim View Post
    I use Aluminum oxide as it gives more "tooth" than beads. i only try to dull Type III or it'll take all day
    My bad, you're right: Cerakote recommends #100 or #120 grit aluminum oxide.

    Also, it says the following, with regard to hard-anodized aluminum components:
    Hard anodizing does not need to be removed if it withstands 3-5 seconds of blasting at normal blast pressure (80-100 psi) in one location without coming off the part.
    So it seems that anodizing AND Cerakoting might be possible, if the anodizing is hard enough. Interesting.
    Too many people miss the silver lining because they're expecting gold.
    M. Setter

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