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Thread: Designing your own holster?

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  1. #1
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    Designing your own holster?

    I found an online template for a common pancake 1911 holster and saved it. It printed out in 3 separate pages, all broken down in pieces (back side w/ tab for thumb safety, front (main) side, and a reinforcement piece in center). It also had a page showing it all assembled.

    I took the three individual pages and printed them out on thick card stock on my printer. I have a good friend (and fellow Mason in our Masonic Lodge) who does leather work as a hobby. He has all the tools, cutters, heavy gauge needles & stitching, and tons of stamps and punches of all varieties.

    With me being a "southpaw" I simply reversed the cutout design patterns and showed them to my friend. He said it looks easy enough to do, but would like my RIA 1911 during the final assembly/fitting, to make sure it will work and be secure enough.

    As seen below, I also got creative with the last page showing it all assembled and did a screen print and uploaded it into Photoshop. I did a "mirror" of the image so it appears lefty, and filled it in. I also added a few tiny images to show my Lodge Brother that I want a Masonic Symbol stamped right up front in center. With me also being retired Coast Guard, I want a USCG shield stamped on one side, and of course, you have to have the American Flag stamped on it too!

    Give me your honest opinion... What do you think of my design of an OWB lefty pancake holster?



    Lastly, for any Masonic Brothers out there, I am also a Past Master of my Masonic Lodge and also a 32° Scottish Rite Mason here in Richmond, VA. Anyone a member of a Masonic Lodge on these forums?

  2. #2
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    Your template looks like it's patterned after several of the popular 1911 holsters. It should work well for you if it's made well. The part I've never been able to figure out is how to mold the front panel to the pistol while keeping the back panel essentially flat.

    Here's one that appeared in our E-zine several years ago. This one was made for a 3-inch pistol so there's not enough room for the Coast Guard or flag stamps, but you can get the idea. And seeing this photo confirmed my initial reaction that I think the sweat guard flap on yours is too small.



    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside
    Likes (1) :
    ButchA (16th September 2016)


  3. #3
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    Thanks...

    The website/template for the 1911 is here:

    http://www.jlsleather.com/wp-content.../1911_05P0.pdf

    I might play around with some card stock paper in the printer and print out the backside with the flap again, but then come up with a bigger/larger top flap that won't interfere with the ambi safety.

  4. #4
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    The thumb safety paddle that is away from your body should not be covered, so there is no interference. The side toward your body should be completely covered by the sweat protector, and the leather should be molded around it when it is in the SAFE position.
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside
    Likes (1) :
    ButchA (17th September 2016)


  5. #5
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    Thank you....

    The sweat protector is only on the back piece and not on the front. I will be sure to remind my buddy when he goes to start fiddling around with the templates.

  6. #6
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    Conversely, I'd say the sweat shield is too tall. It looks like it would come up to cover the hammer and beavertail. That would prohibit you from getting your thumb to the thumb safety as the Kramer holster allows.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTQ View Post
    Conversely, I'd say the sweat shield is too tall. It looks like it would come up to cover the hammer and beavertail. That would prohibit you from getting your thumb to the thumb safety as the Kramer holster allows.
    There is no need or reason to reach the thumb safety while the weapon is holstered. The thumb safety is disengaged after the pistol has left the holster, while it is being swept up the the ready position.
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkmoon View Post
    There is no need or reason to reach the thumb safety while the weapon is holstered. The thumb safety is disengaged after the pistol has left the holster, while it is being swept up the the ready position.
    I disagree.

    I believe you either need to get your thumb to the thumb safety while holstered, or at least on top of the the sweat shield, that should end at the back of the slide. Note Milt Sparks puts no sweat shields on any of their OWB holsters and the Summer Special II sweat shield ends at the back of the slide.

    Note Gunsite's Ed Head on getting a grip on the 1911 at around :40 seconds into this Gun Talk TV 1911 video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGGxwJrrABY

    Note the late Todd Green's comments on a holster sweat shield in this pistol-training.com blog post http://pistol-training.com/archives/9692

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkmoon View Post
    ... the leather should be molded around it when it is in the SAFE position.
    I'd also point out Horseshoe Leather molds all their sweat shields for the thumb safety in the OFF position. We have a bunch of forum members that have Horseshoe holsters with sweat shields and I'll guess most of them carry their 1911's with the thumb safety engaged and have no troubles with their Horseshoe holsters and their 1911's.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTQ View Post
    I'd also point out Horseshoe Leather molds all their sweat shields for the thumb safety in the OFF position. We have a bunch of forum members that have Horseshoe holsters with sweat shields and I'll guess most of them carry their 1911's with the thumb safety engaged and have no troubles with their Horseshoe holsters and their 1911's.
    Andy and I have discussed that issue. He uses inert models as molds -- remember, he's in England, so he can't have a lot of real guns around. I've never seen a blue gun that's cocked and locked.
    Hawkmoon
    On a good day, can hit the broad side of a barn ... from the inside

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