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Thread: Recommendations for dessicant packets in steel GI cans storing bulk ammo?

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  1. #1
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    Recommendations for dessicant packets in steel GI cans storing bulk ammo?

    I've noticed those individuals storing surplus ammo in GI ammo cans are mentioning the addition of dessicant packets into the cans to minimize condensation and corrosion. I've never seen any specific guidelines for dessicant packet usage.
    I've seen 'large' dessicant packets available for sale at local gun shows as well as bulk dessicant packets of all sizes available through mail-order houses such as U-Line.
    Does anyone have any military guidelines for dessicant packet sizes to be added to: .30 cal cans, .50 cal., .50 cal FAT CANS, 20mm., and 40 mm cans?
    How often are the cans' contents supposed to be inspected for possible re-activation of the dessicant packets/
    Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated!
    rustymusket

  2. #2
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    This gives the general recommended amount of desiccant to protect a variety of volumes: http://www.mcmaster.com/#desiccants/=13hyvch You can also buy bulk and pre-packaged desiccants there. Perhaps the most economical is your local craft store: http://www.michaels.com/activa-flowe.../10300251.html While the bulk desiccant can be used loose in an ammo can, it's a little messy. Cut down on the mess by sewing the bulk material in a cloth bag. Hope this helps.

    Regards
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]

  3. #3
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    Information is excellent and 'spot-on'! I humbly thank you for myself and all those members who also were not aware of the amount of dessicant required for various size GI ammo cans and can now more effectively store their hoards!
    rustymusket

  4. #4
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    Silica gel can be rejuvinated (dried) by baking in an oven at the prescribed time and temperature. This can either be done at intervals set by the user or when the humidity in the container gets too high. How high is too high? Your call on that one. But how do you tell what the humidity level is? Cheapest way is probably to put a humidity indicator tag/strip in the container - like these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...fLoc=1&_sop=15
    When you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind. [Lord Kelvin]

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by niemi24s View Post
    Silica gel can be rejuvinated (dried) by baking in an oven at the prescribed time and temperature. This can either be done at intervals set by the user or when the humidity in the container gets too high. How high is too high? Your call on that one. But how do you tell what the humidity level is? Cheapest way is probably to put a humidity indicator tag/strip in the container - like these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...fLoc=1&_sop=15
    The 'clay' type packs can also be dried out in an oven.
    The instructions are often on the packets.

  6. #6
    My preference is to keep smaller packets around reloading tools when not in use. Around brass and other components, not really. Controlling humidity in the environment is where it's at in my book, and if you're in a garage or building with lousy-high humidity, keep that gear inside a house or better environment if at all possible.

  7. #7
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    I have all the desiccant packets I need, and I got them for free.
    Check with your local restaurant supply store. Many refrigerated cases are shipped with a desiccant packet about the size of a pitcher's resin bag. The installers normally throw them away after the case is delivered and set up for the end user.
    They are rejuvenated by leaving them overnight in an oven set at 240 degrees.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiker View Post
    My preference is to keep smaller packets around reloading tools when not in use. Around brass and other components, not really. Controlling humidity in the environment is where it's at in my book, and if you're in a garage or building with lousy-high humidity, keep that gear inside a house or better environment if at all possible.


    VpCI 'chips' work even better than desiccant packs for steel tooling.

    Often sold as small cardboard squares with VpCI already applied.

    They work very well in any reasonably sealed container like a die box.

    Buy a new bag every year.
    Put one in every container and throw out the rest.
    Next year throw out the old ones and put in new ones.

    For bulk ammunition plain old Bentonite clay kitty litter does the job.

    It is so inexpensive I just pour an inch in the bottom of ammo cans.
    After a year just pitch it.

    The silicon flower beads and stuff are a very thin film often on glass beads.

    Absorption is weight of coating per weight of water.
    How much do you think the thin film on the beads weighs?
    Last edited by brickeyee; 31st January 2017 at 16:00.


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by brickeyee View Post
    VpCI 'chips' work even better than desiccant packs for steel tooling.

    Often sold as small cardboard squares with VpCI already applied.

    They work very well in any reasonably sealed container like a die box.

    Buy a new bag every year.
    Put one in every container and throw out the rest.
    Next year throw out the old ones and put in new ones.

    For bulk ammunition plain old Bentonite clay kitty litter does the job.

    It is so inexpensive I just pour an inch in the bottom of ammo cans.
    After a year just pitch it.

    The silicon flower beads and stuff are a very thin film often on glass beads.

    Absorption is weight of coating per weight of water.
    How much do you think the thin film on the beads weighs?
    Silica beads are active to the core. Put one in water and watch it swell up.

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