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Thread: Extractor removal

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    7th August 2008
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    Ft. Collins
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    Extractor removal

    The pinned extractor is about the only feature of my C3 that I do not like. I have been around 1911's for several decades and have cleaned enough crud from extractors and tunnels to believe their removal is an essential part of detail stripping. Searching the net and corresponding with EGW, where I bought a replacement extractor and some springs, found the advice to tap the pin from the bottom with a 1/16" punch just enough to clear the extractor body but remain in the slide. I plan to try this soon after an application of Kroil to encourage the pin. Does anyone have advice or experience.? Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    15th November 2014
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    I am curious as well. Is there room to do this? I have noticed the slot for a punch.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    7th August 2008
    Location
    Ft. Collins
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    81
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    Did it

    Quote Originally Posted by Texan79423 View Post
    I am curious as well. Is there room to do this? I have noticed the slot for a punch.
    Texan: With some guidance from EGW, a quality enterprise, and from a C3 owner on another forum, I removed, cleaned and replaced my C3 extractor.

    In detail: I removed the slide from the frame and took out all of the internals. This was probably not necessary, but I did not know that then. I put a drop of Kroil on the top and bottom of the exposed pin and above and below the extractor body at the location of the pin. With a vise and some wood blocks, I put the slide bottom up in a firm situation, with the extractor site touching nothing. I began tapping with a 1/16" punch, but it wanted to walk, so I switched to a 1/32" and the pin moved far enough toward the top of the slide to free the extractor.

    The necessary force was similar to what is needed to remove a MSH pin on a 1911 - nothing heroic. Another way to express the force needed is that if is too much for a quality 1/32" punch, something may be wrong. The spring did not launch, but was easily lifted from its recess.

    After 700 plus rounds, the externals were about as dirty as they would be on a traditional 1911 after the same number of rounds. There was enough crud to bother me, but certainly not enough to impede function. After cleaning and replacing everything, I tapped the pin most of the way back in with a rubber hammer, then seated it with a punch.

    For the next few hundred rounds, I plan to try infiltrating rubbing alcohol into the channel to flush out the crud and to try to follow that with BreakFree. I lube conventional extractor internals, too. After another 500 rounds, I'll pull the extractor again. While I now know how easily the pin can be removed, the slide internals could stay in place, but I'll probably detail strip the slide at the same time. I don't know how much the Kroil helped, but I'll use it again because it certainly does not hurt.

    If you try this, be sure to set up the slide so it rests on blocks high enough to protect the sights, stabilized so it does not roll and with the extractor site free. Try both sizes of punches to see what works for you, but be careful about dinging the inside of the slide if your 1/16th walks. Please PM me with any questions or post here as you prefer.

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