Slide safety isn't fully engaging?

[Boxholder]

I've got an RIA and I swapped out the grip safety and replaced the hammer. With the new hammer I don't get 100% engagement of the slide safety. I'd guess its probably 90% +. Its enough so that the hammer won't drop but its not as much with the old hammer. By that I mean on my stock gun engaging the safety means its fully in the "notch" on the slide, on my modified gun there is probably 1/16th of an inch (mebbe a lil more) space. If I then hold the hammer further back I can get full engagement of the safety. Is this a problem with hammer, safety engagement or a problem with trigger/sear.

At first I was thinking it was hammer/safety and I need to file or dremel one of them.......preferably the cheaper one ;)

thanks in advance!

[stans]

The new hammer has slightly altered the position of the sear and the thumb safety is not being allowed to make full engagement without the hammer being pulled back, this moves the sear out a bit and allows the safety to fully engage. Remove the thumb safety and very gently file just a tiny bit of metal off the portion of the thumb safety that contacts the sear. Reinstall and test, repeat until the safety fully engages. If you file too much, the safety lever will move all the way up, but it won't block the sear.

[1911Tuner]

Dayummmmm....stans flat nailed that'un! :cool:

Wanna see the hammer do a cute trick? Pull it back just a little from full cock as you engage the thumb safety. When the safety engages, let go of the hammer. Now...watch the hammer closely while you disengage the safety.
It'll move!

The best way to see what's happening when refitting the thumb safety is to assemble the pistol without the grip safety. You can look into the area and see exactly where the contact is, and how much has to be removed to get it to work. Look closely at the radius of the safety lug close to the corner of the sear's safety block pad. Sometimes that's where the problem is, even when the flat area contacts the sear perfectly. When I see that, I prefer to lightly bevel the corner of the sear pad instead of removing metal from the radius. Sometimes ya gotta do both.

Luck!

Tuner

[Boxholder]

Thanks to both of ya'll for your help!!!

1911 tuner thats an excellent suggestion about how to see whats going on inside.

But since I'm stuck at work right now does anyone have a site or picture that shows how the slide safety and the sear interact? I checked this site and some other sites but nothing that shows the parts I want to see (sear and slide safety) interacting.

[John]

Unless you can get me one of those cameras they use in surgery, I can't get you a picture of those parts. Or can I??

This is with the safety down:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/sv1cec/Pict0723.jpg

And this is with the safety engaged:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/sv1cec/Pict0724.jpg

From a bit closer, here is the safety off:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/sv1cec/Pict0722.jpg

And here is the safety on:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/sv1cec/Pict0721.jpg

Don't forget, if it concerns the 1911, you can always find it in M1911.ORG (and if you can't, I am here to help).

Rgds

[Boxholder]

Cool!!! those pics are great! Thanks John!!!

[Boxholder]

Thanks everyone, stans nailed the diagnosis, 1911tuner told me how to see what was going on inside and John posted some awesome pics so that when I got home I knew exactly what to do.

The extended safety slide safety that I had no idea how to make work, now works perfectly. I think I was a little over zealous on the stock safety, it still works, stops the sear but its pretty close and I'll feel better if I replace it and try again.

I'm definitely beginning to develop a 1911 habit and an appreciation of Mr. Browning's creation.

Thanks again!!

[1911Tuner]

Boxholder said:

I think I was a little over zealous on the stock safety, it still works, stops the sear but...
__________________

Howdy Boxholder. Here's how to check the safety for correct function...

Hammer cocked, safety on. Pull the trigger with about double the normal pressure required to cause the hammer to fall...about 10-12 pounds of pressure should do. Hold the left side of the gun up to your ear, and slowly pull the hammer back past full cock. Don't let the hammer spur touch the grip safety. If you hear a light "click", the safety didn't completely block the sear. The click is the sear resetting into the hammer. If you don't hear it, the safety fit is good.

Repeat the test, but this time, before you pull the hammer back and listen, thumb the safety off. You shouldn't hear the click. If you do, the safety isn't right. If you don't hear it either time, you're good to go.

Oh yeah...make sure the gun isn't loaded before you do the tests. (I know. I know...but I gotta say it.) :D

[stans]

Oh yeah...make sure the gun isn't loaded before you do the tests. (I know. I know...but I gotta say it.)

Personal experience there Tuner? :eek: :D :D :D

[1911Tuner]

Personal experience there Tuner? :eek: :D :D :D

Yessir...I often have people bring their pistols up here to the house to have a look at a problem. You'd be surprised at the number of guys who walk in and hand me a loaded gun. When I clear it, the response is usually: "Wow! I
don't remember loadin' that pistol!" :eek:

[Boxholder]

One more question. Obviously where I filed the safety removed the parking. Should I get one of those blueing pens and cover the bright shiney unprotected metal? thanks!

[1911Tuner]

One more question. Obviously where I filed the safety removed the parking. Should I get one of those blueing pens and cover the bright shiney unprotected metal? thanks!

Nah...If it's gonna rust, it'll rust no matter what ya put on it. A little oil from time to time will take care of it.