View Full Version : Broken Ejector on SA Champion
ccwnow
1st December 2005, 23:06
I have a broken ejector on my Springfield Champion (rear pin is broken). I've read the other posts on hear on how to remove and replace the ejector, even if loctite was used, and I feel comfortable doing that. I'd rather buy and replace the ejector myself than have to send the gun to SA for a month. (They are a great bunch!) A few questions, does the Champion use a regular/extended ejector or one sized for the shorter frame, and, will the ejector need tuned? If so, dare I ask how?
Thanks! B.
mitchjoe
2nd December 2005, 22:11
ccwnow:
The GI Champion I had for awhile used a standard 1911 ejector, not sure about the "Loaded" model(s). Are you saying the rear leg on the ejector is broken? Does/ did your SA use the Loctite-only method of retaining the ejector? Easy to tell as these pistols do not have the frame hole for the roll-pin.
mitchjoe
ccwnow
3rd December 2005, 07:19
Mitchjoe,
It's not a loaded Champion, so I'd guess it's the same model you used to own, a GI Champion. Pretty much standard issue everything on it. I bought it used about 5 years ago, and would guess it was manufactured in the mid-late 90's. Yes, the rear leg on the ejector is BROKEN. I haven't removed the old ejector yet...so haven't gotten as far as removing the hand grip or any dissembly to look for a roll pin. None is currently visable.
OH, I just realized, I can compare the ejector in my Champion to the ejector in my Colt 1991 to confirm it's a standard. Or just remove the ejector and take it to my local gunshop.
SHOULD I install an extended ejector?
EDIT: update, the ejector is pinned in.
ccwnow
3rd December 2005, 11:47
Ok, after a lot of searches on this great forum, I've narrowed it down to one question...
Will an extended Ed Brown ejector fit in a SA Champion?
mitchjoe
3rd December 2005, 14:30
ccwnow:
Dang, how did the thing break?
It will definitely fit, but I'm wondering if the combination of the ramped 3.9" barrel & GI-spec ejection port didn't have something to do with SA's choice of a std. ejector for these pistols.
In running it through the noggin, the same factors that prompted Colt to use the extended part in the Commanders would seem to apply & having the ejector whack the case a little sooner would be good. The Champion however, end's up being closer to the Officers model as far as slide mass & velocity, etc. & I'm not familiar w/ them.
Hopefully we can get some more "edumicated" input :D.
mitchjoe
ccwnow
3rd December 2005, 20:47
Well, I bought a 'Colt extended ejector for all models 1911' at my local gunshop, she no fit. The cross section profile is quite different. The original SA ejector is taller and wider. I'll call Springfield Monday.
mitchjoe
3rd December 2005, 21:08
ccwnow:
Nonwithstanding any tuning, most ejectors need to be fit to the respective pistol. What doesn't "fit"?
mitchjoe
ccwnow
3rd December 2005, 23:17
Mitchjoe,
If you compare the ejectors cross sections, that is, look at both of them from the rear for example, the new extractor is shorter and narrower. Considerably. Put another way, when I test fitted the ejector by placing it in the SLIDE (not the frame), there were large gaps at the rear of the slide where the ejector would normally sit with the slide full forward.
CJR
4th December 2005, 13:06
ccwnow,
You asked about fitting ejectors. They need to be initially fitted in three(3) places; the leg going into the frame may need its notch to be filed carefully so that when the retaining pin is inserted into the frame the ejector will sit flush on top of the frame, likewise the sides of the ejector need to be filed if they interfere with the slide as it moves on the frame, then with a loaded magazine inserted in only the frame(ie. no slide on pistol) the top bullet in the magazine must not hit the underside of an extended ejector(if it does, file the underside of the extended ejector until the bullet clears the ejector). After this installation, the tip of the ejector can be further altered to control the direction at which the cases are thrown.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
CJR
ccwnow
4th December 2005, 13:13
CJR, thanks for the summary! I feel confident I could do all, except for tuning the tip of the ejector to alter the direction of the cases. I've pretty much decided to either send it back to SA, or to have them send me an ejector that I can install and risk destroying. One of the reasons I purchased this 1911 was to use it as a learning tool for SIMPLE 1911 repair and smithing. But I really like the way it shoots, so I'm thinking about not screwing with it anymore and using it as my carry weapon.
CJR
4th December 2005, 17:16
ccwnow,
You shouldn't have any problems installing a new ejector. Some people clean the ejector leg and the hole in the frame and then coat the leg with Locktite (i.e. blue) to make the ejector more sturdy. A 1911 is an excellent weapon to carry. When properly set up, they go bang everytime.
Best regards,
CJR
ccwnow
6th December 2005, 01:24
FYI, I called SA. Deb said they could not send me an ejector. I'd have to send the gun in. DARN.
vesmcd
6th December 2005, 01:51
IIRC, Springfield uses a 9mm/38 Super/10mm/.40 ejector in some models. It is taller and wider(extends inboard further) than a standard 1911 Gov't .45 ejector. Maybe that's what you have.
ccwnow
6th December 2005, 07:52
Thanks Ves, I know the gun shop down the road has one. It's simple enough to take mine with me and compare side by side.
ccwnow
6th December 2005, 09:58
Looking at the pics on the Ed Brown site, the 38/9 ejector DOES look like mine. Crap, my gun store is closed on Mondays :butthead:
vesmcd
6th December 2005, 12:22
If you use a 38/9 ejector, you will probably have to shorten the nose to make it work in a .45acp. With some of the extended ejectors, the nose of a loaded round will hit the barrel hood when you try to clear a round from the chamber. I usually set them up so that the ejector nose is flush with the slide breech face when the barrel hood extension is flush with the front edge of the ejection port. Start with nose cut square and adjust angle as necessary to get it to kick the brass the way you want it.
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