Safety Malfunction

[rhtwist]

Hello to All,
I've run into a problem with the thumb safety function. Not currently able to have it professionally worked out, I was wondering if there is something I can do, or maybe did. If the trigger is pulled ( a smith installed Wilson ) with the safety engaged, the sear appears to move. I've disengaged the safety and if I pull the hammer back slightly a distinct click can be heard. Diving into the problem I slightly bent the spring leg that tensions the disconnecter. Why is now a moot and probably unanswerable question. Now over 50% of the time when this scenario is played out, the hammer falls when the safety is disengaged. This problem may have gone unnoticed until I found this forum and began to become more knowlegable :confused: about the 1911 and it's correct function. Any ideas or should I just grin and save my dinero?
A second problem on a different pistol is more distressing. Its a 90's Gold Cup. Again increased knowledge ( Oh blissful ignorance ) has caused me to notice what appear as cracks on the frame. It's one of the enhanced with the cutout under the trigger guard. The cracks (two and possibly three in all) are as follows. From the lower corners of the trigger cutout (both sides), down the sides of the trigger guard where it joins the frame and them about a 1/16th into the cutout. The possible one is below the left slide stop hole down where the side of the frame meets the curve into the trigger guard top. It's a nickled gun and it may be a scratch. The ejector is loose, wobbles side to side slightly. I quess I am asking if any of these second pistol's symptoms might be warranty items.
Colt was not encouraging and said to send in the Gold Cup for evaluation. I know the top end is good as a famous member checked it out. Thanks for any help, advise or encouragement.

rhtwist

[1911Tuner]

The safety was badly fitted. The sear shouldn't move when the trigger is pulled with double the normal amount of force needed to fir the gun. Actually, it shouldn't move no matter how much force is applied...but too much during the test will bend the trigger stirrup.

If the safety is maed of machined steel, the lug can be "stretched" a little
by striking it with light, repeated blows at a shallow angle, letting the hammer head skid off the lug in the direction that you want to displace the steel.

Lay it between two slightly open vise jaws with a paper towel under it to prevent marring. Find a combination of feeler gauges that will fit in the frame clearance slot to prevent collapsing the lug, and go to work. A hundred light strikes are better than 5 heavy ones...so be patient. The metal will displace.
When you see it start to move, check the fit and function....Repeat until the sear doesn't move.

The cracks under the trigger guard? Well...That's the price we pay when we try to re-engineer the frame to suit the latest trend.
The thinner the steel in a stress area, the easier it breaks.

[rhtwist]

Hello Kind Sir,
Looking at the back of the safety this is what is seen. The sear lug?!? looks roughly like a round pin with a "C" cut out on the right side. The location of the bottom of the cutout where it meets the outer radius appears flattened and the blue is gone. Additionally the rear shows what looks like caste pitting, and there is what might be a cast 4 in a circle. I do believe it is a casting. This is the original factory safety from a 90ish Officer's. Does that jibe with your astute observational accuity? First noted the problem when I substituted an extended colt safety and it had the problem. Hope it didn't infect the sear :) .
Tried the safety from the GC and it didn't even do as well as the others. Wish I knew then what little I know now. Thanks!

Glenn