Replacing a Trigger on Series 80

[Long Rifle]

Is this easy?

I hate that long, plain, black trigger on the Series 80 pistols

I want to install a plain short one. Like on my old circa 1986 Series 80 and all "normal" 1911's.

Is there a How To somewhere?

[stans]

You must completely strip the frame of all its internal components to get to the trigger. If you are uncomfortable with this idea, a qualified gunsmith can do this job for you. It's easy to do when you know how to do it.

[SMMAssociates]

Long Rifle:

Hope I'm not poaching here, but this link will take you to a good description of how to strip a 1911.

1911 Stripping (http://m1911.org/stripin1.htm)

(Don't remove the plunger tube components - no need to do that to change the trigger.)

There may be some fitting issues, and be careful to test the thing before you carrying it - a new trigger may lighten the pull up by pressing on the sear a bit more than it used to.

I'm not a smith, and YMMV, but it'll give you an idea if you're up to it.

I found that the toughest part is remembering to take out the magazine release ('cause it holds the trigger in) and diddling the disconnector and sear to get the sear pin in properly. Remember, too, to de-cock the gun when trying to install or remove the mainspring housing, and cock it when installing or removing the frame safety.

Regards,

[stans]

Oh, and that screw in the magazine release is not a screw, it is a cam lock. Push the mag release in, turn the screw 90 degrees counter clockwise and the mag catch will be free.

[Long Rifle]

Excellent link. This is way too much for me.

I am either just going just deal with this stupid trigger, or get the smith at my local shop to put one in.

Thanks so much for the feed back, very much appreciated.

[SMMAssociates]

Long Rifle:

Other than the fitting issues, it's not that big a deal.... The "Series 80" or Kimber "Series II" guns have a little bitty part that rides on the sear pin (the Kimber's on the right - I think the Colt's over there, too) that is important, and makes the re-installation of the sear parts a little more tricky, but that's about the worst of all of it.

I have to admit that I just figured out how to do that about three weeks ago! I'd been avoiding it when a buddy's new Kimber developed problems, and we decided that I'd have to take it apart for him. (Well, I decided. :scared: )

I was going to practice on my Colt, but it's in CT for repairs, so I decided my slightly simpler (Non-Series II) Kimber would be safe enough. Not a problem.... Getting the sear and disconnector lined up to put the pin in was "fun", but not a big deal. I'd had the rest of the parts out before anyway - hammer, mainspring housing, etc. Just not the trigger or sear.

(Joe wouldn't let me take his Kimber apart, but whatever crud was on the disconnector that led us to want to do that fell out, so it's shooting fine now.)

The real issue is fitting - since you're not changing the sear or hammer, about all you care about is the new trigger bow not pushing the sear back more than it should "at rest", and adjustment of the stop screw, if any.

If you have any doubts, a good smith would be in order, of course, but don't be afraid to pull it apart to see what's in there. Just don't be like my late uncle. When he was quite young, he took apart his dad's watch. It worked, I'm told, when he got done, but there were parts left over.... :D

Regards,

[stans]

If you are not comfortable with this job, definitely take it to your gunsmith.

[1911Tuner]

Though I've had very few problems in swapping one Colt trigger for another Colt trigger...the Series 80 pistols do require a check to insure that the levers are timing early enough to disengage the firing pin plunger correctly. (They work off the trigger) Some do and some don't...but most do.

If you're within driving distance of Lexington, NC I'll be glad to have a peek at it. N/C

[OD*]

You'll want to check the trigger bow also, they can be short and effect the correct functioning of the grip safety.

[RickB]

A short slave pin, made from an old sear pin, can be used to pre-assemble the sear, disconnector, and S80 lever, before inserting it in the frame. Round the ends of the pin, so it can be smoothly pushed out the side of the frame by the sear pin.

[SMMAssociates]

A short slave pin, made from an old sear pin, can be used to pre-assemble the sear, disconnector, and S80 lever, before inserting it in the frame. Round the ends of the pin, so it can be smoothly pushed out the side of the frame by the sear pin.Rick:

AAARGH....

Why didn't I think of that....

Thanks!

I'm usually a little confused, I guess. I needed to swap an MSH, and decided that I'd "practice" dealing with the spring & such using some parts I had laying around. Couldn't get the spring into the housing. I started looking around the place for some parts to make a jig or some such. That's about when I realized that you can't stuff a Commander mainspring into an Officer's housing.... :o

Sheesh....

Regards,

[drach]

Woo Hoo thanks for the info peeps! I just changed out my trigger for a short one because I have little hands. As far as I can tell everything seems to work (all the safty devices, trigger pull, etc) I did pull out the pin with the hammer cocked (that made it a little stiff) but now I know and it makes perfect sense. I didnt end up with any extra parts and I think I improved the setting on the over travel of the trigger pull. I think im going to get up extra early tommrow before school to go and shoot :D