spring power 16 lb. or 18 1/2 ? in Govt. which to use ?

[USMC/8541]

I have been shooting 1911's for a long time now, and I have always changed the spring to 18 1/2. I always thought that 16 lb. would damage the frame with prolonged use with full-power loads 230 gr. FMJ, JHP. I have not read this, I just thought that way. I just bought the 1911 WW 1 "reissue" and I am thinking about changing the spring out on her. I would like to keep the 16 lb. has anyone had problems or heard of them w/ 16 lb. springs with full power loads. thanks in advance.

[Joni Lynn]

If the slide isn't battering the frame I doubt it makes much difference. If the gun runs ok with a heavier spring the only harm a heavy spring could do is to exert more force on the slide stop, the holes in the frame for the slide stop and the barrel lugs.

[SMMAssociates]

Lynnie:

You can also change the timing - the way it feeds - by playing with the spring weights.

I think the rule is to go with the heaviest spring that works with the heaviest loads you're likely to use. Plan on swapping to a lighter spring if you try to run a couple boxes of target loads....

My Commander likes an 18# variable spring better than I think it should :D . I sent it to Colt for a psychiatric consultation.

(That, and the barrel-to-frame contact surfaces are whacked.)

Regards,

[SAWBONES]

In a fullsize 1911, I've used both weights of recoil springs.

The 16# is standard, but I've had rare FTFs with one particular gun, which disappeared when a 18.5# recoil spring was installed.

I don't see that it makes a lot of difference, but if you intend to shoot mostly +P loads, maybe the 18.5# spring is the better choice, whereas if you consistently shoot standard loads, why not stick with the 16# spring?

[John]

My advice would be to use the lighter spring which allows your gun to work properly. A heavier than necessary spring may not batter the frame on its way back, but it sure does nothing good for your pistol, on its way forward.

[1911Tuner]

If the slide isn't battering the frame I doubt it makes much difference. If the gun runs ok with a heavier spring the only harm a heavy spring could do is to exert more force on the slide stop, the holes in the frame for the slide stop and the barrel lugs.
*******************

Ahhhh! You have learned well, Lady Grasshopper.

Accolades to John for speaking simple truth.

Sawbones...If the gun won't return to battery with a 10-pound spring, it needs to be tweaked. If you're ever in my neck of the woods, bring it to me and I'll correct the problem while plying you with copious amounts of turbocoffee. ;)

Continuing education for the sake of same...and to make diagnosis of future problems move a little faster...

A failure to feed is a complete failure of the round to get into the chamber.
If it enters the chamber, even just a little, it then becomes known as a failure to return to/go to battery. The first is most often magazine related...about 95% of the time. The second is most often caused by the extractor....roughly 75% of the time.

[Joni Lynn]

I use a 16 pound spring in most of my 1911's but still don't know exactly which one I should be using in my old Gold Cup Midrange models that fire the 38 Special 148 grain wadcutter round. Since these are blow back operated and don't even have locking lugs I figure the strongest spring that the gun will function 100% with will also keep it closed the longest and give best accuracy. Just a note, the gun won't even work with a 18 pound spring.

[wichaka]

Lynn.......if I remember right.........it takes a 12lb spring.

[Joni Lynn]

Great! Thanks. Next time I order from Brownell's I'll get a couple new ones. I wouldn't be surprised if the originals weren't still in the guns.

[stans]

My Kimber Gold Match stainless wears a 15 pound spring, works well with reduced power target loads and is ok with 230 grain ball, so it's a best of both worlds spring for me. My home built Commander uses a 20 pound spring, but I will again experiment with an 18. My military parts gun uses a 16 pound spring and gets fed the standard 230 grain loads. My Delta Elite currently runs a 22 pound spring, but a flat bottom firing pin stop will let me drop down to a 20 pound spring and I might be able to drop to an 18 if I put in a really heavy mainspring.

Speaking of mainsprings, they have a huge influence on how soon the slide and barrel unlock as does the radius on the bottom of the firing pin stop. Basically, the more resistance they give, the slower the unlocking of the pistol. The original 1911 design specified a flat bottom firing pin stop, it was the Army that put the generous radius on it to make it easier to hand cycle the slide.

[John]

The original 1911 design specified a flat bottom firing pin stop, it was the Army that put the generous radius on it to make it easier to hand cycle the slide.

Correct, and Johnny still owes me one of these!!!

[Hunter]

What about the new Colt Gold Cup Trophy that comes with a weaker (not sure of the weight) installed for semi wad cutters and a heaver weight spring in the box (not sure of the weight of that one either). The instruction state that shooting semi wad cutter ammo use the weaker (shorter) spring with green paint on the end and everything else run the heaver spring. Would it hurt the pistol to run the weaker spring in it with other than semi wad cutter ammo?

[stans]

Potentially yes, the slide will impact the recoil spring guide rod head with more velocity. The job of the recoil spring is to slow the slide near the end of its rearward travel, then propel it forward to pick up the next round. A light weight spring with full power ammo make the slide move real fast, kind of like the shortened 1911 designs. Spring rates are a balancing act, too much or too little induces problems.

[ADP3]

Wolff also makes a 17# spring that will give you a bit more resistance than the factory 16# and less than the 18 1/2#. I've used these in a variety of Colts and Kimbers over the years and for non + P loads they seem to be a very effective compromise.
Best Regards,
ADP3