View Full Version : New guy from Dallas
Dnglbry
24th August 2004, 03:53
Been hanging around with other lurkers and have decided to come out of the closet (so to speak). I bought a Ultra Compact, serial number N48xxxx, (parkerized) about 2 months ago. I didn't know they made some of their guns in Brazil, and in fact, I don't see any 'Brazil' stamp on the gun. Perhaps I lucked out and got one made completely in America. Four points to ponder for those considering this weapon. First, I have shot 600 rounds through it with one failure to feed (a gentle tap on the back cured that problem) and one failure to eject. I am very happy with the reliability of this firearm. I had a Randall I loved and it failed all the time (until I ditched the magazines for Wilson's). Point 2, I haven't shot in close to twenty years and the first day I shot this gun I was able to get consistent 5 shot groups at 50 feet in the 2.75" range. Off hand (that means with no rest, for you in Rio Linda). None ever went over 3.5" and many groups were in the 1.75" range. I remain astonished with the accuracy and reliability of this gun. Point #2, the rear site loosened at ~400th shot. This was not such a concern because I wanted to change it anyway (I had installed Millet Sites). Point #3, The &*%*$^%*&%^$%^$%&%&**^&$%$$% safety is extremely tight. I can one arm curl 60# sets with either hand and have a really tough time moving the safety one handed. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? Point #4, When I got the gun, one of the grip screws was completely stripped. My gunsmith suggested I call Springfield implying they would respond to me faster than he. Three days later I received two grip screws and a free Springfield Armory hat Number One Son wears oh so politically incorrectly to school. (I also changed the grips for Hogue rubber grips).
stumbler
24th August 2004, 10:00
Welcome to the SA Ower's club.
On the safety, is it hard to put on or take off. Different things may be required depending on what it is doing.
1911 TERRY
24th August 2004, 17:13
Hey Stumbler, my WWII G.I. thumb safety was so stiff it caused my plunger tube to come loose at the rear stake. Anyone know how to loosen the safety up so it snicks on and off easier, or should I send it back to Springfield? I hate to send it back if it can be easily resolved. My first Springfield, and its been kind of disappointing.
John
24th August 2004, 19:37
If it is difficult to put the gun on safe and off safe, I would send it back to Springfield. If it is difficult to put the safety on and take it off (like when disassemblying the pistol), I wouldn't worry about it.
Rgds
Dnglbry
24th August 2004, 22:56
It is hard to engage and disengage the safety. (I haven't tried to disassemble the safety). I have handled a couple dozen other SAs, none of them was this tight.
swampertwo
25th August 2004, 00:38
My experience has been that the groove just inside the flat part isn't quite wide enough and it rubs on the inside of the frame--got a Dan Wesson I just went through that with when I installed an ambi safety. It's just pinching on the frame(my best guess).
Jeff
stumbler
25th August 2004, 05:44
On the last one that gave me thumb safety problems, this is what I did (it may work for you).
This is easiest done when you have a couple of undisturbed hours.
Do a detail strip of the gun (info at www.m1911.org (http://www.m1911.org/) technical area).
Using frame only, Put the safety back on by itself.
Work the safety and observe how the plunger tube assy interacts.
Using a fine file, I removed a little of the safety at the point where plunger tube is compressed the most (maintaining the profile of the safety).
Repeat as necessary
REMOVING TOO MUCH IS EASIER THAT PUTTING IT BACK ON (so be careful).
Mine took less than 10 strokes.
It is like Brylcreme, a little will do ya!
lil toad
4th September 2004, 18:04
If you have a dremel tool, cut a couple of coils off of the plunger spring. I haven't found an off the shelf 1911 that couldn't use some spring work.
wichaka
4th September 2004, 19:35
I think Stumbler hit it on the head. Look at how the safety interacts with the plunger, frame and slide. Not sure if you'll have to detail strip it, but take the slide off and see how the parts work together. If need be, detail strip and start like Stumbler mentioned see if its hard by itself. Then keep adding parts to find out when the bind starts.
It usually ends up that you'll need to take a bit off the the face of the safety where the plunger rides. But also check the notch in the slide, and the frame too.
Dnglbry
6th September 2004, 22:38
Thanks for all the helpful advice. Right now I'm considering upgrading either to a GI stainless and let a pistolsmith tune it, or get a Les Baer Match Wadcutter. I am not familiar with LB other than some of the chat here. I am particularly interested in the 1 1/2" LB upgrade if anyone wants to respond on the Les Baer chat line....
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