Quick question

[shovelwrench]

What is the tool with the screwdriver handle used for?

http://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/080000089.jpg

[kenhwind]

I do believe it holds the slide forward when cutting the recoil lugs.
My Kuhnhausen Book 1 is in the other room and I will fetch it.

[Dave Berryhill]

It's used as a lever to push forward on the slide while you cut the barrel lower lugs or feet.

There is a hole near the tip of the tool. You hold the frame in a vise and put the end of the tool in the frame where the grip safety usually goes and put a thumb safety or other pin through the thumb safety hole in the frame and the the tool. With the handle end of the tool held vertically, the dog-legged part of the tool pushes against the rear of the slide.

[shovelwrench]

It's used as a lever to push forward on the slide while you cut the barrel lower lugs or feet.

There is a hole near the tip of the tool. You hold the frame in a vise and put the end of the tool in the frame where the grip safety usually goes and put a thumb safety or other pin through the thumb safety hole in the frame and the the tool. With the handle end of the tool held vertically, the dog-legged part of the tool pushes against the rear of the slide.


Thanks Dave..

I kinda remembered seein a pic of it set up like that somewhere, but was'nt sure. I'm gettin ready to cut my first lugs, and understood the rest of the procedure, just did'nt see any mention of that tool.

Any more advice before I cut into 200$?

[Dave Berryhill]

...Any more advice before I cut into 200$?
Yes. It's much easier to remove metal than to put it back! :D Just double check everything before you start cutting.

[shovelwrench]

OK,
Thats done, looks good.

New problem=Link Length.

My old link is .100 (stock .278 link) measured at the solid part between the holes.
My barrel after cutting measures .111. I had to use the .195 cutter to get into battery with the slide stop in.

Does it sound right that I'll need a link that long? The .288 will actually be a little short.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=16412&st=&s=36894

[log man]

OK,
Thats done, looks good.

New problem=Link Length.

My old link is .100 (stock .278 link) measured at the solid part between the holes.
My barrel after cutting measures .111. I had to use the .195 cutter to get into battery with the slide stop in.

Does it sound right that I'll need a link that long? The .288 will actually be a little short.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=16412&st=&s=36894
Yes, that sounds about right to start. But have you actually tried the #5, they vary incrementally and trying is the only way. The link length or size can be longer. The first upper lug depth of the barrel, in conjunction with the frame and slide dimensions control link length. A match barrel's first barrel lug depth should be .040"-.045", this will give centered firing pin hits +or -.

The correct link is the one that will just allow the slide stop pin when in the link allow the pin contact with the cam surface and be loose enough to not stop the pin from contacting the feet stop. A #5 can be fitted if it or any other size is just short and the next size is long, by using a 3/16" chain saw file and lower the hole a couple thousandths.

LOG

[niemi24s]

New problem=Link Length.Not a problem. Merely a natural consequence of what's been done.Does it sound right that I'll need a link that long?Sure. You went through all the trouble & expense of hard-fitting a barrel so the SS pin stuffs the barrel all the way up as far as it can go into the slide.

Because of that the barrel link pin's higher up in the gun and a longer link's needed. How long the link needs to be is a function of every one of the 8 or 10 separate specs that end up determining the distance between the centers of the SS pin and barrel link pin when they're vertically aligned.

If the link's too short it'll squeeze the SS pin against the barrel lugs in battery.

If the link's too long it'll prevent the SS pin from contacting the barrel lugs in battery.

The correct link for your gun is somewhere between the too short length and the too long length - whatever those are.

FWIW, my Bullseye 1911 with a hard fit NM barrel needs a +17 (0.295") link.

Regards

[Pappy]

It certainly looks like the tool I use for the lockwork on S&W revolvers.....

It's called a rebound slide tool.

It can be made by using a standard screwdriver with a 3/16" blade.
The tip is filed to have a notch 1/16" in the middle.
Heat shaft so it can be double bent with a parallel 3/4" drop 2" long.

The photo shows a rounded tip, so it wouldn't work for a S&W revolver.

[log man]

Good one Pappy, but it is for pushing the slide forward when cutting the lower lug. The rebound tool, I made a sleeve that captures the end of the spring and when pushed the last bit, gets out of the way, works great.

LOG

[Pappy]

Thanks LOG, I had made a similar tool years ago, as I said, to work on revolvers.
When I saw that photo, I thought "I know that one!!".