is this normal, loose ejector

[chitoryu2454]

I am new to 1911's so my question may seem basic.
I have a new 1911 clone and after a few hundred rounds, i noticed the ejector became loose. just got it back and after about 40 rounds it appears to be loosening up again. is this a common thing and if so how loose is too loose???
what does the ejector do anyway? any and all help will be greatly appreciated. :D

[wichaka]

No the ejector should be tight and not move at all. The ejector does what its name says.........it ejects the spent shell out of the port in the slide. The extractor pulls the spent shell casing out of the chamber as the slide is going back. It then contacts the ejector which in a sense throws it out of the port.

[chitoryu2454]

thanks for the timely response, it is appreciated.
any ideas as to why this may be happening ie eg timing or the ejector is too long or out of tolerance?

[wichaka]

I see you have 2 threads started about the same thing. You might want to delete the other one.

What make is the gun, as some are glued in.

[chitoryu2454]

the gun is a charles daly efs1911-a1. i can see one pin...and some small tool marks where the mfgr worked on it.

[wichaka]

There should be a cross pin that goes thru the frame and hold the ejector down onto the frame...........if the pin is installed correctly.

The ejector should not move at all, it should be solid as a rock. If it does move, there's a great chance that you'll start to get ejection jams. i.e., the spent shell won't eject correctly, or won't get out of the port in time for the slide to close.

[1911slabsides]

I'm hoping that it isn't the frame that is goofed up. what you may want to do is avoid shipping and all that stuff and order a good one from maybe (ed Brown) drift the pin that holds the ejector in out, carefully pull the extractor out, don't brake the pins off or you got trouble, put the end brown in. you will have to cut the spot where the new drift pin goes first, and be done with it, Warranty smoranty, fix it yourself and get R done.

[wichaka]

I'm hoping that it isn't the frame that is goofed up. what you may want to do is avoid shipping and all that stuff and order a good one from maybe (ed Brown) drift the pin that holds the ejector in out, carefully pull the extractor out, don't brake the pins off or you got trouble, put the end brown in. you will have to cut the spot where the new drift pin goes first, and be done with it, Warranty smoranty, fix it yourself and get R done.


Amen..........

[chitoryu2454]

Ther are no outward signs of the frame being compromised...but I guess I won't really know until I disassemble the ejector. In any case I am begining to think that this is the correct approach. I am going to order An Ed Brown ejector and pin (maybe two pins, rather have it and not need it than the other way around) and put it in myself. I will probably also get ahold of my step-son, who is deployed with the USAF and see what kind of super duper adhesive they use for their aircraft, if possible, and augment the new ejector and pin assembly with it. You mentioned "drift"...in my world a drift pin is tapered....is that the case here? which would indicate which way it is to be removed and re-installed.
I do appreciate all of the help and i thank you all.

[1911slabsides]

I don't believe that the pin is tapered, I've changed a few and either I got lucky and always went the right direction or it straight. It's really not a major operation, you will have to cut a notch in the leg where the pin goes through, a quick hit with the dremel or a few passes with a file take care of that, The only real problem you can run into is having one of the legs break off inside the frame, be very careful in removing the old part, pull straight out don't bend and pry. I didn't use any adhesives or lock tite on mine usually the part holds real well with just the pin.

[wichaka]

I agree, if it's done right...........you shouldn't need any adhesive.
I had one on a Colt that the rear leg broke off, if it had been glued in........it would have been a pain to get out.

[chitoryu2454]

thanks for the information, i will be orering it tomorrow.
one final question. is there a "rule of thumb" for "tuning the ejector. i ask this because it looks like the factory smiths removed some material from the actual business end of the ejector. that is one small diameter pin holding it.....i havent mic'd it but it looks a bit smaller than .060"

[1911slabsides]

I think that sometimes smiths will smooth the edges so they aren't sharp so they wont ding the cases, The pin is small, I don't know the diameter but technically an ejector that is correct will work even if the pin is not installed, the pin is really there to keep it from dropping out when the slide is taken off.

[chitoryu2454]

wow....i knew the pin would not be able to take a sizable force, even if was is in double shear.....but i hadn't thought of it as only a "keeper". i thank you for all of the help you have provided. now its wait for the postman and as was qoted to me "get r done" thanks again to every one

[1911slabsides]

Gotta be honest, lies are for other places, I've never seen the value of a warranty, But the truth of the matter is that I think I held a 1911 before I had teeth, now I'm on the other end where my teeth may be leaving soon :o, I'm the kind of guy that has changed a U Joint with a box end wrench and a sock full of rocks, That's where the Get R Done comes from. I spent a few nasty years in the army "it was peace time" except for one night, I guess I've always said if I can't fix it well then maybe it can't be fixed, I'm still amazed at the post office and UPS, The 1911 isn't a brain buster, I'm living proof of that, I don't know how to work a VCR or a DVD player, I'm a mess at the computer but the 1911 was old when I showed up on this rock, it can be fixed at home without all sorts of stamps and crapola, (note: I worked in an emergency room and Crapola is a medical term ;) ) if it ain't it ought to be. You'll get it rolling just fine, if you come up on a hitch get with me and I'll see what I can do.

[chitoryu2454]

i know the feeling . i grew up poor but had the advantage of having a dad who was a master mechanic. when i was old enough to drive i was taught how to fix a car never sent it to the shop, didnt have the money for that so as you say i had to "get r done" if i wanted to drive. didnt seem so great then....but its been a God send ever since.
i gained knowledge and self reiance but lost 18 yr old eyesight as well as hair and some teeth, but the older model of me is way better than the young one. i will certainly call on you should i run into a hitch. thanks to you and all of the members of the organization i have a priceless commodity at my fingertips ....knowledge.
thank you all

[vanhanaikainen]

I had the same problem with my ser.80 Colt after about 500 rounds. I sure did send it back, as it came with full warranty and I wasnt going to try to do it myself, as there sure aint no knowhow about it overhere-havent yet found this forum either-although I am big on DIY, have rebuilt and maintained number of my bikes,etc and living in an old house sure keeps you busy with repairs&maintainance.but being the first government(after some 25 yrs of dreamin) it was however something that I wasnt going to mess with and trying to learn it by the hardway...throuhg trial and error .But what the smith did was that he "tighened it up" and DID took some material off from the barrel-side end.anyway it did work fine after that without any more troubles.

[chitoryu2454]

i just wanted to let all those who provided information and advice that i finally replaced the old ejector with a new ed brown ejector. i guess after all the coaching i must have been prepared. it only took a bit of "light clean up, breaking sharp corners and making the seat for the pin and it was done :eek: . i did remove about .030" from its overall length at the busoness end. have put about a hundred rounds through it and it is still rock steady. once again to all who participated, i thank you :D