Upgrade my 1911

[BlackCalvus]

Picked up a 1911, put 500 through and love it. The only thing is my hand can't take the "bite" anymore. I would like to upgrade to BT safety and hammer. Have had good experiences with Wilson. I'm just not sure what fits a rock 1911 GI model.

[doctruptwn]

I thnk there have been sveral who have used the drop in and commander hammer with success, sure they'll chime in here pretty quick.

[Karatediver]

What is the bite everyone talks about. I have the GI model and have shot it quite a bit but my hand is fine. Granted my hand isn't as big as some guys but I am at a loss everytime I read about it.

Thanks.

[doctruptwn]

What is the bite everyone talks about. I have the GI model and have shot it quite a bit but my hand is fine. Granted my hand isn't as big as some guys but I am at a loss everytime I read about it.

Thanks.

Depends on your hand size, Those of us with beefy hands can have some of the webbing between the thumb and index finger ride over the grip safety and get chewed on by the hammer spur. Needless to say there is usually blood loss involved.

[Karatediver]

Ouch!!! That sounds really painful. As a teen I got bit by the slide on an auto gun for having my hand in the wrong place but getting a laceration from just having big hands sound awful. Thanks for the clarification. Now I'll know what people are talking about.

[Mike45]

My problem on my Hi Cap was not so much on the hammer biting the web of my hand but it was the grip safety digging into the webbing of my hand.

BlackClavus -- I have heard nothing but good things on the Wilson products but do not discount Armscor parts as the price is right. I purchase beavertail, hammer, and trigger from Arnel all for under $85. :appld:

Mike45

[Auto Mag]

Welcome to the forum BlackCalvus and congrats on the RIA GI Model!!! :wc: :) If you want to install a beavertail grip safety and it is not the "drop in" one you will need an Ed Brown beavertail installation jig as the beavertail for the RIA's is a .250 radius. :)

[BacAway]

I replaced the GS, hammer and trigger in my GI with Wilson parts. The commander-style hammer and trigger were no problem. The BTGS can be hit or miss; some here have used the Wilson Drop-In BTGS and it was literally just that - drop-in. Such was not the case with mine and in the end, required 'gunsmith intervention'.

[Auto Mag]

BacAway, I always refer to "drop in" parts as drop in at your nearest gunsmith for installation!!! :lm: :lm:

[BacAway]

BacAway, I always refer to "drop in" parts as drop in at your nearest gunsmith for installation!!!

Oh so TRUE . . . . .

[coltaholic]

there is a post on one of the threads here about grinding about 1/8 off the back of the hammer. It worked great for a friend with giant hands.

[doctruptwn]

I didn't want to scare him off, It took about 5 hours to get mine on the compact I built, Needless to say before it was done I had the mig welder out to fix where I goofed the GS up.

[Cap]

I've installed two Wilson drop-ins.
I believe the part number is 429 then some suffix letters depending on stainless or blued.

One dropped in and functioned, the other required a couple swipes (literally) with a file to engage the trigger bow properly.

you'll need to bob the hammer or replace it.
There's no cost involved to bob 1/8 inch off the spur.

If I had it to do over again, I'd buy the 250 radius jig and cut the frame tangs for a fitted BTGS.
However, it was my first mod and I was uncomfortable about cutting my gun.
I've since gotten over that fear after cutting to install an Ed Brown Bobtail


side note, hammer bite wasn't the reason I knew I needed a BT.
It was due to the stock GS being too uncomfortable to shoot because of the hard sharp edges.
Even after I rounded the edges, it still wasn't comfortable after a box or two of ammo


here's what Wilson drp-in will look like

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/larycap/100_0029.jpg

if you look closely just below the frame tangs, you see sticks out a bit.
Lots of filing was done on the GS to make it blend better, but it will never be perfect like a fitted one.

I did lots more grinding on this one, and it's the best "I" could do.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/larycap/Picture648.jpg


as you can see from this pic, a fitted GS (Para on top) looks better.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/larycap/Picture796.jpg




..L.T.A.

[tx_oldone]

I have the HiCap as well and I have big hands, wearing fingerless gloves will save money and pain.

[tonka]

My Wilson drop-in dropped in. I've been looking at it recently and have decided that I need to fit it to the tangs a bit more closely, but it has performed perfectly so far and I no longer get blood droplets on my glasses and a violent flinch after three mags.

[rdhood]

Does the beaver tail on the tactical prevent the bite of the GI?

[Mike45]

Yes.

Does the beaver tail on the tactical prevent the bite of the GI?

and very comfortable and controllable to shoot.


Mike45

[rigrat]

Cap,

Even though the Para looks a little better, the rock looks very good. I like the way you rounded the edges, being new to 1911's is that what you call melting?

Every time I see your bobtail it pushes me a tad closer to doing mine.

[tonka]

There's a confidence issue, as well- once I knew that I couldn't get hammer bitten, I was able to teach myself to get a higher grip at the draw. Practicing my presentations is more comfortable, so I'm more apt to practice. The BGS keeps the frame tangs from digging into my spare fuel supply (not to be confused with "love handles"), making the pistol more comfortable to carry. I may some day install a real fitted grip safety, but the drop-in is a quantum leap over the GI part.

[Cap]

Cap,

Even though the Para looks a little better, the rock looks very good. I like the way you rounded the edges, being new to 1911's is that what you call melting?
.

Thanks RigR.
I'm not sure mine is a true "melt" compared to some I've seen in ad pics.
somewhere between a full melt and dehorn is how I'd describe it.

I also agree with Tonka, the drop in by it's self makes a world of difference over the stock GI.

..L.T.A.

[SAN JOSE]

Cap...sorry for the off-topic, but how did you apply that gold coloring on the RIA Rollmark?

[120mm]

I have the HiCap as well and I have big hands, wearing fingerless gloves will save money and pain.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95568

I've been running a pair of these in the "A of Stan" for the last couple months, and am impressed at how well they work/hold up.

[Cap]

Cap...sorry for the off-topic, but how did you apply that gold coloring on the RIA Rollmark?

Hi San Jose

I used this stuff

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=720160

It's very easy to apply, however they don't recommend it for parkerized finish because it's very difficult/impossible to remove it from the non engraved/roll stamped areas.

I tried it anyway cause that's the kind of guy I am... :p

It was very difficult to remove the excess, but not impossible.
It took a lot of clean patches soaked in toluene to remove the excess.

I taped off around the roll stamp, applied the gold dust, pulled the tape and worked on getting the excess off.

It's very easy and nearly fool proof to apply on non-parked finishes though.

That particular gun in the pic has a Duracoat finish on it, but as mentioned, I gold in-laid on it when it was parkerized too.

If your gun has a parker finish, use at your own risk..cause it IS very difficult to remove from where you don't want it


..L.T.A.