Trigger tuning question

[stevenwr]

I followed the "poor Man's Trigger Job" by 1911 tuner and big difference in the trigger pull. I have one question about the hammer hooks. In the instructions it states to grind both hammer hooks. Does that include the half-cock hooks? I did not grind the half-cock hooks, because if I did I'd end up removing the lip on the hooks which the sear slides into. Besides removing the lip I'd end up removing so much material the radius going from the half-cock hooks to the top of the hammer would change dramatically. Is there any danger to the sear if the main firing hooks are ground to 25 thou. and the half-cock hooks are left at original height?

[Hawkmoon]

No. The half cock hooks are there just to catch the hammer. They have no effect on trigger pull.

[tombstone]

Hi Steven,

The half-cock hooks are an important safety device that will catch the hammer before it reaches the firing pin if something unusual causes the sear to slip off the normal hooks. They should be left alone. In normal operation, they are not in contact with the sear. Although some folks have used the half-cock like a safety device, that is not recommended.

Congrats on taking the plunge and diving into the innards. I too have done the "poor man's trigger job" on a couple of my pistols and each time it has turned out fine, although I was pretty nervous at first. I recommend that when you fire the gun after reassembly, load only two rounds in a mag for the first try, just to avoid full auto if something is wrong. If all is ok, then load three. Then if all is ok, let her rip!

[br6ppc]

He is asking about BOTH hammer hooks. Not the half cock notch.

I would be interested in what the heck that means also. I've learned a awful lot on this forum, but do not remember anything about "both" hammer notches.

Thanks

Roy

[stevenwr]

Thanks very much for the info. I'm glad I hesitated on touching the half cock notches. I'm still surprised at the difference in trigger pull. I also ran JB bore compound in the slide and that was also a noticeable difference.

[niemi24s]

He is asking about BOTH hammer hooks. Not the half cock notch.

I would be interested in what the heck that means also. I've learned a awful lot on this forum, but do not remember anything about "both" hammer notches.The place on the hammer that catches onto the sear nose at full-cock has "2 hooks", as their central part is removed for the strut slot.

The OP's just wondering if "both hooks" might include the half-cock notch (hook) if the full-cock thingie is called a "hook" and not the "hooks". I think.

Jeeez, now I'm confused too! :p

Regards

[Hawkmoon]

He is asking about BOTH hammer hooks. Not the half cock notch.

I would be interested in what the heck that means also. I've learned a awful lot on this forum, but do not remember anything about "both" hammer notches.

Thanks

Roy
He is asking about the half cock hooks.

In the instructions it states to grind both hammer hooks. Does that include the half-cock hooks?

[stevenwr]

I think the confusion over terminology is my fault, in misreading the trigger tuning instructions. Technically there are 2 hammer hooks and 2 half cock notches. The 2 hammer hooks are to be ground and the 2 half cock notches are to be left alone. Thanks again for helping me clarify the info.

[niemi24s]

And if your trigger has an overtravel adjustment screw, insure it's screwed out far enough so when the trigger's pulled and the sear releases the hooks, the sear nose is not contacted by the half-cock notch (or anything else on the hammer) as the hammer falls.

Regards

[log man]

I think the confusion over terminology is my fault, in misreading the trigger tuning instructions. Technically there are 2 hammer hooks and 2 half cock notches. The 2 hammer hooks are to be ground and the 2 half cock notches are to be left alone. Thanks again for helping me clarify the info.
LOL,Well not to go overboard, but there really is only one half cock notch as the hammer isn't split for the strut quite that far. So......

LOG

[stevenwr]

NIEMI24s, after I did the Poor Man's Trigger Job I installed a new trigger with an over travel screw and adjustable bow. As far as the over travel screw I kept on backing out the screw until the trigger would allow the hammer to completely fall (dry fire). I haven't noticed any marks on the sear from contacting the half cock notch so I assume the trigger screw has been backed out far enough. As far as the adjustable trigger bow I bent the adjustable portion of the bow to match the rest of the bow. It seems to be a big improvement from the original trigger. A much tighter fit inside the frame.

[br6ppc]

He is asking about the half cock hooks.

I had my mouth in gear, but forgot to start my brain. This time I looked at my original hammer (I have a C&S Tactical II in there now) and there it was. 2. Let me repeat. 2. Guess what. The C&S also has 2. Fancy that.:appld:

I must have looked at that hammer and my others a hundred times. Can't see the forest, etc.

Next time, I'll think first. I hope.

Roy

[niemi24s]

. . .I kept on backing out the screw until the trigger would allow the hammer to completely fall (dry fire). I haven't noticed any marks on the sear from contacting the half cock notch so I assume the trigger screw has been backed out far enough.Perhaps a more sensitive way to check for this is with the MSH slid down enough to still keep the sear spring in place but get the hammer strut swung back out of the way.

Cock the hammer, then pull the trigger and keep it pulled. Slowly rotate the hammer down manually sensing any contact by feel.

If nothing else the sear doesn't need to be removed to check for marks - and, depending on the sear's finish, contact might not leave a mark!

Regards

[wichaka]

stevenwr, sounds like you got installed correctly..........

Turn the screw all the way in, back it out until the hammer falls, then back it out another 1/2 turn.....done.

Or just get rid of the screw.....

[wjkuleck]

I will say when I saw the word "ground" in the OP, I cringed. "Stone," mayhap, rather than "grind"?

Regards,

Walt

[stevenwr]

neimi24s, after my last reply I went back to the gun. I cocked the hammer, pressed the trigger and slowly walked the hammer down. I could feel the half cock notches touching the sear. I kept backing out the over travel screw until I could no longer feel any engagement. The over travel screw is pretty much backed out all the way now. Thank you very much for the info. if I left it as it was I think over time the sear would have been damaged.
wjkuleck, actually I used a chain saw file to grind the hammer hooks, made short work of it! Just kidding LOL just the thought of that makes me cringe. Your right I stoned the hammer hooks, and took my time. It's easy to remove material but pretty hard to put the material back.
Thanks again everyone.

[jwenum]

Niemi has it right,lower the hammer manually while pulling on the trigger.If the hammer brushes the half-cock fingers you'll feel it.Usually a 1/2 turn out will take care of it.

[niemi24s]

I do, however, have a suspicion the most bothersome damage (if any) caused by this contact would only occur if the sear had no breakaway/secondary angle on its aft corner.

If the sear did have a breakaway/secondary angle, the contact would probably be down on the lower part of its surface and I don't think that part of the sear ever comes into contact with the hammer hooks' tips (except when manually cocking).

But, not really knowing any or all of that stuff for sure, it's probably best to adjust the overtravel screw to avoid any of it - much to the dismay of those bothered by trigger overtravel.

Just my US$0.02 :)

Regards