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Tow Man Dave
11th March 2009, 23:01
I got a new trigger i want to put in my Rock. But i really want to do it my self. Is this something i should try myself or take to a gunsmith? Open to any advice or directions to a place on the web that will show me... THANKS

nukker7
11th March 2009, 23:10
Hey Dave,

If it is a "drop in" trigger, I found it to be not too terrible of a task as long as i took my time. There are dissasembly and reassembly videos on youtube. I personally like videos, there are other step by step instructions available too, if you want to google it.

doctruptwn
11th March 2009, 23:48
Take your time watch a few of the video's on how to disassemble on the net and here on this site. Go slow and you'll do fine.

8shotslinger
11th March 2009, 23:55
Yea all the above. I plan on doing the same and the youtube videos of disassembly and reassembly are worth their virtual weight in gold for a noob like me. Also there are a few pictorials about fitting a trigger online.
Good luck and dont forget to post your results.

Baldy
12th March 2009, 00:00
Once you take one apart you will see it's not all that bad of a job. Along with what they have here on site and this on line sorce I was able to do it. Good luck.

http://how-i-did-it.org/detail-1911/frame_detail.html
http://www.kerensky.net/pics/series2/

Tow Man Dave
12th March 2009, 00:37
Thanks all I DID IT .. The video on this site was a big help.A lot simpler than i thought it would be..But was all for not ..As i don't like the play in it..To much up and down movement in it..So I'm going to order a new one..And i will post pics of the new one..But just wanted to say thanks to all who helped me and gave me support..

8shotslinger
12th March 2009, 13:11
Thanks all I DID IT .. The video on this site was a big help.A lot simpler than i thought it would be..But was all for not ..As i don't like the play in it..To much up and down movement in it..So I'm going to order a new one..And i will post pics of the new one..But just wanted to say thanks to all who helped me and gave me support..

Quick question which trigger did you try to use? I really like the stock GI look on my rock but i want a longer trigger, and like you, one with less play.

ETAC
12th March 2009, 20:17
Find a trigger that has an oversize shoe and can be adjusted for takeup and overtravel. It is very easy to fit and dial in and once its done, you will love your pistol even more!

kenhwind
12th March 2009, 23:39
Fitting an oversized trigger can be a very perplexing ordeal depending on the pistol. I've installed several over the years. My Defender was a chore, but my brothers Defender was not. I guess the combination has something to do with the procedure.
If and when you fit the shoe and the trigger still drags, check the end of the trigger bow. A few passes with a stone will cure it.
Good luck.
Hey ;they're only about twenty bucks.
Cylinder & Slide has a smooth trigger in three lengths, Greider precision and there are others.
Don't be surprised it you take the gun apart a couple of times.
I like the medium length and have to change the trigger on a new pistol.
Ken

Ralph Grant
13th March 2009, 03:24
If the actual trigger is too small, get an oversized one and file/sand it until it fits nice and snug in your frame.

Every once in a while I come across one that the trigger bow is also too thin for the trigger track in the frame. This will cause a little creep right before the sear releases, because the bow moves a few thousanths down before she fires.

To fix this I just drop the trigger on the old brownells trigger stirrup die (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=788&title=1911%20AUTO%20TRIGGER%20STIRRUP%20DIE) and peen 3 spots on each side of the bow to make it wider. Don't get crazy because it only takes a little bit. I then drop the trigger in the gun and file those peened spots slowly but surely until it fits nice and tight. I then clean everything up until its grease smooth. Works like a champ and doesn't seem to wear.

log man
13th March 2009, 12:26
If the actual trigger is too small, get an oversized one and file/sand it until it fits nice and snug in your frame.

Every once in a while I come across one that the trigger bow is also too thin for the trigger track in the frame. This will cause a little creep right before the sear releases, because the bow moves a few thousanths down before she fires.

To fix this I just drop the trigger on the old brownells trigger stirrup die (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=788&title=1911%20AUTO%20TRIGGER%20STIRRUP%20DIE) and peen 3 spots on each side of the bow to make it wider. Don't get crazy because it only takes a little bit. I then drop the trigger in the gun and file those peened spots slowly but surely until it fits nice and tight. I then clean everything up until its grease smooth. Works like a champ and doesn't seem to wear.

Very good tip and description of tuning.

LOG

wichaka
13th March 2009, 12:58
I disagree on the peening...if you feel 'creep' from that, you're getting it from somewhere else.

What trigger did you use?

log man
13th March 2009, 13:11
While I've never found the need or symptoms to do this I can see that if the bow at the back is under size and if when applying pressure to the shoe below the bows center the back the back would be up in the channel and as pressure is increased it it's easier for the bow to slip down due to the angle of the bow you would feel a creep before the sear releases the hammer. A better fitting trigger would be preferred, however........

LOG

wichaka
13th March 2009, 14:10
If your trigger is free moving as they should be in the first place, any movement (as assumed above) will be taken up upon contact with the disconnect.

Take the grip safety off, and watch the clockwork.

log man
13th March 2009, 14:35
If your trigger is free moving as they should be in the first place, any movement (as assumed above) will be taken up upon contact with the disconnect.

Take the grip safety off, and watch the clockwork.
A good suggestion for sure and one I make often, except the time isn't my interest, it's the lock work that interests me. :)

LOG

wichaka
13th March 2009, 14:43
Clockwork, as in watch all the parts.........

Same as for a revolver...quite a clockwork in them as well.......even more.

Ralph Grant
13th March 2009, 19:33
Wichaka,

I welcome your opinion but I know what I saw. The trigger was an Insert adjustable Infinity and the gun was a Springer.

I looked at the "Works" with the grip safety off and the bow was moving in the exact manner that Log Man anticipated. You could SEE the bow move down slightly in the trigger track and FEEL it creep. I had polished the hammer and sear with my Powers Jig so it wasn't a sear or hook angle issue.

The issue was that the bow was probably 3 or 4 thousanths too thin for the track. I could have replaced the trigger and spent $20-50 but why? Had the bow been riding in the bottom of the track I probably would not have had to do this. However that would have required additional filing on the bottom of the trigger and I didn't want to risk it flopping around in there since it fit just right upon drop in. I hate a trigger that rattles around in the gun and a creepy trigger more so I tried the peening approach with excellent results.

Its not the perfect scenario but it worked. The result is a nice and tight 3.5# trigger in that gun with zero creep and zero overtravel. It probably has about 3000 rounds on it with no problems.

I have also used this technique on a grip safety tab that is slightly too short and allows slight trigger movement when the grip safety is not depressed. A slight rap on the tab and its magically longer. A few touches with the file and its perfect. As mentioned before, I could waste money and time replacing the grip safety and fitting it to the frame but why?