Wilson Combat New Bullet proof parts #1-The ambi thumb safety

[WilsonCombatRep]

http://i41.tinypic.com/5e91ud.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/2ywe9op.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2zyboxt.jpg


As you can see the method of attachment is different and cleaner than some other ambi's out there. CNC machined from one block of steel :)

[John]

Any reason why you guys went with a screw on the hammer pin?

[WilsonCombatRep]

The hammer pin provides a cleaner, hidden attachment point for the ambi paddle and the larger hammer pin privdes stability and larger surface area than the sear pin would.

All ambi-safeties are compromises between comfort, convenience and engineering. We are pleased with how this turned out.

[John]

I understand that the hammer pin is more secure than the sear spring, but why use a screw? I mean why add something which can become loose?

There are other ambis out there who utilize a longer hammer pin, but they have a slot machined at its end, which engages a slot cut on the right safety pad. The screw is one more thing to go wrong. Of course, you can always use Loctite on it, but ....

Oh well, what do I know, I am no engineer.

[WilsonCombatRep]

To get the pin out of the gun the screw head was essential. Since the left side safety is immobile the screw has no way to really loosen until you are ready for it to loosen.

I am no engineer either :)

I like the part alot. I typically prefer strong side only safeties and thats what ALL of my guns have but for some people the ambi is essential and we feel this answers a few issues with the standard parts. Its rock solid.

[RickB]

for some people the ambi is essential and we feel this answers a few issues with the standard parts. Its rock solid.

Not that I'm an engineer either, but it looks like the separate screw allows for a lot more surface area than a locking device that can be no larger in diameter than the hammer pin. I'm more interested in the pin joint, which really is different than anything else on the market.

[Z51]

As a lefty, all I can say is thanks for a "bulletproof" solution.

This should take care of all the complaints that ambis are a weak point.

[DacoRoman]

I think I will upgrade my CQB with this

[Sandhills Writer]

;) I have one on a Super Grade, and I must say it is fantastic. You have to see the way it is made to appreciatae it. Top quality all the way, as always with Wilson.

[kenhwind]

Wow! I like that.
The Kings was the best idea but kind of bulky. and no more.
Well does Brownells have any yet? Kidding.
Gee; I better not ask how much until daybreak.
My Defender has a Wilson mainspring housing, grip safety, and slide stop, hmmm.
Ken

[Pokem]

Good timing for me. The Kings ambi safety on my Delta Gold Cup just shelled out.

Would this (Wilson safety) be considered a drop-in part or would it require some fitting?

Thank you!

[WilsonCombatRep]

This safety would require fitting. There is a short backorder on these safeties currently-they are proving to be quite popular!

[Hawkmoon]

Is it available with regular "teardrop" shaped paddles, or only with the extended paddles as shown?

[WilsonCombatRep]

Not at this time, sorry.

[Hawkeyesas]

Went on the Wilson website to see what the cost is on the new Ambi. Couldn't find it. Where is it available? When? How much? As a "lefty" if I have to add a Ambi to whatever gun I purchase, this looks like the way to go.

Thanks,

HawkeyeSAS

[WilsonCombatRep]

in stainless they are $99.95 and in blue a few dollars less. They are currently backordered. The best way to order is direct from us

[Lawdog537]

As A Lefty, This is GREAT NEWS!!! What is the status of these now (in stock), and how much of an upgrade charge to put them on a new build. Also, how does the paddle size compare with your current standard and wide ambi ? Thanks!

Cory

[WilsonCombatRep]

You will need to call Berryville to check the status . Availability is sparse right now as the bulletproof safeties are being allocated for custom gun orders. Call and get one on backorder-we cannot make these parts fast enough. If you have a gun order in the queue, call your sales rep and order the upgrade. The upcharge is minimal.

[dogdollar]

So......it's the head of the screw that fits into the slot on the right side piece?
If, so, I see no way the screw could ever back out.
That's just pretty darned ingenious, if you ask me.
The only problem I could imagine would be trying to get the screw tight, or even worse, how to get it off if it mysteriously tightened itself over time. I certainly wouldn't use Loctite on it for that very reason.

Well, I can see where my next several hundred dollars will be going.....

DD

[J1911]

Will this be standard on any of the models going forward or will it be an upgrade?

[WilsonCombatRep]

Supergrades and CQB Elites get this part when an ambi is needed.
It is an upgrade on all others.

My new CQB has this part :)

[turkehntrc]

What is the Wilson part number for this safety. I called Wilson yesterday and spoke to one of the customer service people. They had no idea what I was talking about.

[WilsonCombatRep]

part # is 192BBP for blued
192SBP stainless

[wjkuleck]

I received a Bulletproof Ambi last week for inclusion in my next book. I am mightily impressed. The design is very competent and results in a secure installation.

Good work, folks.

Regards,

Walt

[Dave Berryhill]

It looks like a nice part and I need to try one of these. Besides retaining the right half, does the screw/hammer pin also stop the downward travel of the right half when the left is stopped by the plunger detent?

Many of the ambi safeties available allow the right half to continue to move downwards after the left side has stopped movement. This puts stress on the joint in the middle and can cause them to loosen or break.

[WilsonCombatRep]

Yes. It does stop the downward travel. Very snick-snick.

[Joni Lynn]

I really like this, it looks great.

[wjkuleck]

Allow me to expand on my comment. This is the first ambi safety I would put on a serious pistol.

Regards,

Walt

[Jolly Rogers]

It looks like a nice part and I need to try one of these. Besides retaining the right half, does the screw/hammer pin also stop the downward travel of the right half when the left is stopped by the plunger detent?

Many of the ambi safeties available allow the right half to continue to move downwards after the left side has stopped movement. This puts stress on the joint in the middle and can cause them to loosen or break.


Dave I believe the design eliminates the troublesome finger joint by making the pivot pin full length and hemispherical in cross section. Captured inside the grip safety they can't separate so it should prove very secure. JMHO. It is the only ambi safety I would consider buying to install.
Joe

[Dave Berryhill]

It certainly looks like a solid design. Now that the Kings ambi is no longer available, this may be the answer that I've been looking for.

[dogdollar]

Dave,
I would be extremely interested in getting your thoughts on this part once you get acquainted with it. Please keep us (or at least me) posted, it would be much appreciated.
DD

[Dave Berryhill]

If I can get one, I'll post a mini-review. I'll call Wilsons Monday and see if they have any for sale.

[John]

It's a pity that the Kind's safety (and other products) are no longer around, however, Kimber's safety is of the same design as King's.

I would also like to see Dave's findings, and if possible a comparison with the Kimber's piece. Personally, I would tend to trust more the Kimber's safety, just because it doesn't come with that screw.

[Dave Berryhill]

The Kings safety was a good design but poorly executed. The lugs on both the ambi and the single-side thumb safeties were usually out of spec and allowed for the safety to travel past the detent instead of stopping on the frame internally.

I may look at the Kimber as well but I have my reservations due to quality control and heat treat issues that come up from time to time and lead to parts breakage.

If the head of the screw is smaller in diameter than the hammer pin then a drop of red loctite will keep it from coming out. Once adjusted to the proper length, there really isn't any reason to remove it again. Red loctite it pretty permanent on a screw that small. If the head is larger than the pin then it will need to be removed first before the hammer pin will come out of the frame and red loctite is not suitable. In the photos it looks like the screw head is smaller than the pin.

Perhaps the Wilson Rep can clarify this?

The Wilson ambi also addresses the weakness of most other ambi safeties and that is the tongue and groove joint in the middle of the shaft.

I'm hoping that this part turns out to be as good as it looks.

[dogdollar]

As a lefty, I am well aware that the ambi safety is a "weak link". Even in the best versions, the continual friction of the plunger on the left side causes an eventual loosening of the tongue and groove shaft connection on the inside. I have the King's 201 on several of my pistols, but frankly have never been impressed with the part, other than what I feel is its advanced design. I have also purchased the newest iteration of the Infinity ambi which, until now, was the only ambi on the market machined from billet steel rather than molded. In my opinion, the ambi is too critical to the function of the firearm to be a molded part, if there is a choice. The Infinity is a true work of art, masterfully machined with every curve and nuance there plus some, and the connection has been made longer through the shaft axis to provide greater surface area and thus more strength to the connection. The downfall is, it's basically the same ambi we've seen for years, just done right. You still have to relieve your right side grip panel for the retention arm to fit under it, plus it costs upwards of ninety bucks (I don't think this is a ripoff, considering what must be a very intricate manufacturing process - it just is what it is...).

This Wilson really has me going. I 'm, not fond of the screw, I can only assume it is a way around whoever holds the King's patent.
My biggest concern is any component of the thing under "shear" type tension during hundreds or thousands of violent slide excursions, it is a recipe for disaster if not done perfectly.
On the other hand, I fail to see how it could come loose or go anywhere once it is installed....I worry more about eccentric tension.

Looking forward to hearing from Dave - thanks amigo.

DD

[Dave Berryhill]

It's a plus to have some type of positive stop for the lever on the right side to reduce the torque placed on the joint in the center. The left side will stop on the detent or internally on the frame (preferably both) but without a stop on the right side, putting pressure on the right lever after the left side has stopped will force it downwards and just twist the shaft.

Often the top of the right lever will stop on the top of the right grip. Ideally, the right grip is too tall and the grip can be carefully trimmed to the correct height so that both the right and left side levers stop at the same time.

A trick that Chuck Rogers taught me is to install a pin into the frame on the right side to stop the travel of the lever. This involves drilling a hole in the frame so you need to be committed to having an ambi safety
http://www.berryhillguns.com/images/stories/my_slideshow/safetystop.jpg
In this case I could have used the grip to stop the lever but the customer requested the pin. Also, many people like to change their grips frequently and the next set of grips may be too short to stop the lever.

The Wilson ambi is supposed to do this internally. If it does then that is another plus for this part.

[dogdollar]

I'm not sure about this Wilson, but you can't use a post with the King's because it has to swing down to come off.
DD

[DuckRyder]

It appears to me that the new pin stops the downward travel, unless I am mistaken the new hammer pin goes in the reverse of standard and the machined end goes into the ambi side, I assume that the screw has a slightly larger head to fill the countersink in the frame for the standard hammer pin?

I am no engineer either but it seems that the screw would be unable to come out unless the standard side of the safety had already come off? Perhaps if it greatly concerned one a little purple locktite would add additional retention.

[Dave Berryhill]

...you can't use a post with the King's because it has to swing down to come off.
DD

That is correct so using the top of the grip is the only practical way to stop the travel of the right side unless you fabricate some type of stop that is held in place by the grips.

[Dave Berryhill]

...unless I am mistaken the new hammer pin goes in the reverse of standard and the machined end goes into the ambi side, I assume that the screw has a slightly larger head to fill the countersink in the frame for the standard hammer pin?

Ah! You may be right. I was thinking that the screw was on the right side and the head of the screw was what fit into the slot on the right side of the lever. I guess there is no point is speculating. Hopefully we'll have have one to examine soon.

Where is that Wilson Rep when you need him? :D

[dogdollar]

Yep...it looks to me like the pin has to be inserted from the right side and the screw goes in on the left side once the pin is inserted, taking the place of the flange on the original pin and nesting in the countersink on the frame.
Also I notice that the flange on the right side of the pin, which engages into the right side machined groove, is larger than the pin body diameter and so could not go in from the left. The right side of the safety body appears to have to swing DOWN to engage this flange, so the question is does it is bottom out in the slot precisely when the safety is disengaged. I'd say you would be darn lucky if it did. I'd also be darn sure before I loctited this screw, considering what little you have to grab onto if you can't break it loose, which is basically the machined right side of the pin.....doesn't look like something you would want to mess up with pliers.......
DD

Walt just bought one of these things; maybe he will chime in and straighten us all out.

[DuckRyder]

....I'd also be darn sure before I loctited this screw, considering what little you have to grab onto if you can't break it loose, which is basically the machined right side of the pin.....doesn't look like something you would want to mess up with pliers........

Agreed, definitely nothing more than a tiny bit of low strength, perhaps even that isn't a fantastic idea. I wonder if one can use a good sturdy rubber band as a strap wrench?

If it works the way I am thinking you should not need anything at all on it.

[WilsonCombatRep]

Ok, here goes.

The special hammer pin goes in the frame the usual way. The cone shaped screw is the same diameter so after the length is set by using loctite it will never need diassembly. The right side lever is merely retained by the screw (via a dovetail) and the long interlocking joint.

When you install the BP ambi, first you set the length of the screw using loctite. The screw has a small allen head in it if you need to make adjustments. The right side lever uses the slide as the upward stop and the screw for the downward stop.

Even if the screw shears (somewhow?) the safety would still work as both halves have a full length pin (just split down the middle.

This is the first ambi I have ever liked, but then again, I am biased :)

[Joni Lynn]

I like this new part so much I'd consider retrofitting most of my guns with one.
The new grip safety is pretty nice also.
I wish I had a good pistolsmith nearby so I didn't have to ship things everytime I want something done.

[DuckRyder]

Hmm...

So is that in fact a flange on the hammer pin?

I guess I am having trouble understanding how the hammer pin can have what appears to be a step (or flange) and go in the normal way without leaving the other end a loose fit?

I still think it is a very nice part but I guess I liked it better when I thought the ambi side was stopping on the big beefy pin end vs the smaller screw.

Anyway, I guess I should go away since the one I would like to see is a bar stock 6BN/6SN Tactical Thumb Safety.

Hopefully Dave or Walt can show us some installed pictures soon...

[wjkuleck]

OK, Folks, here goes.

This picture shows the half-round full-length (nearly) shaft of the left safety, which is matched exactly by one attached to the right safety. The safety shaft is locked together for its full length by the half-round shape of each shaft, with the tips of each half-round shaft "snapping" into the corresponding safety. Note the left end of the hammer pin with its "screw" slot:

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-1.jpg

Here is the right hand safety rotated up so that you can see the screw in the end of the hammer pin. Note that, at least in this case, you cannot rotate the right hand safety past "safe" (with the left hand safety removed) because its rotation is stopped by the bottom of the slide:

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-2.jpg

Here is a closer look at how the two longitudinally split "halves" of the safety shaft interconnect, and how the tips lock into the safeties:

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-3.jpg

Viewed from beneath, you can see the Allen screw's relation to the capture slot on the inside of the right safety:

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-4.jpg

IMPORTANT POINTS:

The right safety influences the left safety (and vice versa) solely by means of the mating shafts. The hammer pin has no "bearing" on the matter.

The purpose of the screw and retention slot in the right side is to keep the right safety from falling out to the right. The screw is engaged by over-rotation (past "safe") of the right safety with the left safety absent . Once the screw head has entered the large part of the capture slot as shown in the fourth picture, immediately above, the safety is rotated downward to "off-safe." The right safety thus cannot "leave the building." There is no need for grip clearance for the safety. The grip does not retain the safety, the Allen screw does by means of the capture slot.

The right safety cannot be removed or installed with the slide on. You have to over-rotate the safety for the initial engagement of the screw with the slot.

All the forces involved in the safety are resolved through the mating surface of the safety shafts, which is full-length and full-diameter. The locking of each end of the shaft in the corresponding safety body is a plus, but the "finger joint" isn't the primary means of resolving the torque.

When the right safety is installed and rotated downward, the left safety can be installed as usual. The right safety will follow the left as you wiggle the left safety into place.

Once installed, the two safeties feel and act as one. In fact, there is a small relief on the back side of the right safety plate at its upper left corner area, to allow a small screwdriver or knife blade to help pry the left safety out of engagement with the right safety during the removal of the left safety.

CONCLUSIONS:

This is a well-designed, dare I say ingenious, mechanism. You cannot inadvertently lose the right safety, as the screw retains it via the capture slot. The screw is sufficiently robust for this purpose. No relief of the right grip plate is necessary, as the right safety plate does not engage the right grip panel.

The safety shaft is arranged so that the torque of the one safety is robustly transmitted to the other. No "fragile joint" is involved.

No modification to other parts of the pistol beyond the use of the supplied hammer pin is necessary. In the case of the exemplar pistol (a Colt 01991 frame kit with Colt Conversion Kit), the sear pin does not appear to be a problem. Flattening the end of the sear pin to make it flush with the frame side is easily done if needed or desired.

The slide keeps the right safety from disengaging the hammer pin's Allen screw with the left safety removed, by preventing over-rotation of the right safety. With the left safety installed, of course, the right safety cannot rotate any more than the left, that is, to "on safe."

If anyone would like a picture of any part of the mechanism to enhance their understanding, please let me know. But do it soon, so I can get that frame back together and keep from losing the sear engagement lever of the Series 80 mechanism!

Regards,

Walt

[Joni Lynn]

Thanks, that clarifies things a lot better. I like it, great idea.

[WilsonCombatRep]

Hi Walt,
Great description of the part except I think you mean "hammer pin", not "trigger pin".

The slotted screw head is used during the adjustment and set up phase. Its only used once.

Also to clarify, after you set the length of the cone shaped screw, it comes in and out of the frame like any other hammer pin.

Thanks again for your time helping clear things up

[wjkuleck]

Hi Walt,
Great description of the part except I think you mean "hammer pin", not "trigger pin".

The slotted screw head is used during the adjustment and set up phase. Its only used once.

Also to clarify, after you set the length of the cone shaped screw, it comes in and out of the frame like any other hammer pin.

Thanks again for your time helping clear things up
You're very welcome. Now, what size Allen wrench is used to adjust the screw? I idly turned mine in with just my fingers; now I can't screw it back out with those same fingers!

I'll correct my "pin" gaffe.

I gotta tell you, I really, really like this product. I sure didn't expect to!

Best regards,

Walt

[dogdollar]

Dear Walt,
You're a rock star, my friend.
Now I understand this whole business, and I agree, it is a great idea, and apparently well executed.
Thanks for the time and trouble of the pics, etc.....I can't thank you enough.
Best regards,
Tim

[wjkuleck]

Dear Walt,
You're a rock star, my friend.
Now I understand this whole business, and I agree, it is a great idea, and apparently well executed.
Thanks for the time and trouble of the pics, etc.....I can't thank you enough.
Best regards,
Tim
My pleasure, Tim.

I needed to take some pictures for the book anyway, because this item is definitely going in!!

Best regards,

Walt

[kenhwind]

Gee, didn't Kings use the hammer pin to retain the ambi part 30 years ago?
OK I will admit that the split shafts is an excellent idea and I am absolutely impressed with this newer evolution of the 1911 ambidextrous safety lock.
I still like the original Colt design compared to the Swensen type with the finger under the grip. The Kings were nice because the hammer pin retaining feature being closer to the safety lock pivot it eliminated transverse play.
I would surely buy some of these when I get the chance.

Hi Walt. How about a profile picture and one from the top down with the safety lock assembled.

[WilsonCombatRep]

You're very welcome. Now, what size Allen wrench is used to adjust the screw? I idly turned mine in with just my fingers; now I can't screw it back out with those same fingers!

I'll correct my "pin" gaffe.

I gotta tell you, I really, really like this product. I sure didn't expect to!

Best regards,

Walt


Oooh Walt, its a bitty one. The size smaller than a standard trigger stop screw. Its about .005".
Just get a piece of rubber and turn it out, It should easily come out by hand.

[WilsonCombatRep]

You're very welcome. Now, what size Allen wrench is used to adjust the screw? I idly turned mine in with just my fingers; now I can't screw it back out with those same fingers!

I'll correct my "pin" gaffe.

I gotta tell you, I really, really like this product. I sure didn't expect to!

Best regards,

Walt

You and me both. I am the original "non-ambi" guy. My new gun has this part....

[dogdollar]

You and me both. I am the original "non-ambi" guy. My new gun has this part....

So.....we're all friends here.
Tell us all about your new gun. I've always been curious as to what the guy who works at Baskin-Robbins orders when he feels like eating ice cream.
DD

[WilsonCombatRep]

So.....we're all friends here.
Tell us all about your new gun. I've always been curious as to what the guy who works at Baskin-Robbins orders when he feels like eating ice cream.
DD


http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=67042

:D

300 rounds more today of mixed reloads. 550 rds so far, No problemo.

[dogdollar]

Very, VERY nice, Sir.
The Wilson I once had was an extraordinary firearm, and the customer service was always world class. No one in the industry, to my knowledge, even comes close.
Very best regards,
DD

[Dave Berryhill]

I placed an order for one this morning but they are on back order for about a week :(

[wjkuleck]

Here are two pictures from the top. Methinks I should dunk this frame in the parts washer :):

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-Top01.jpg

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-Top02.jpg

Regards,

Walt

[kenhwind]

Thank you kindly

[wjkuleck]

As requested, some profile shots:

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-L-D.jpg

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-L-U.jpg

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-R-D.jpg

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/WBP-R-U.jpg

Enjoy.

Regards,

Walt

[wjkuleck]

Thank you kindly
You're welcome. The more I look at this, the more I'm impressed. However, y'all keep in mind that this is the first ambi safety I've ever bothered to install, so I'm not the one to make comparisons with alternatives!!

Regards,

Walt

[kenhwind]

Thanks again Walt. The reason I was asking about the profiles is that I had to relieve the top rear of my grips for the Colt-STI type and the C & S worked out just fine on my Defender.
My Super has a Kings and is bulky and I do not want to slim it down. These grips have been modified also. The plan is to buy a WC BP Ambi safety lock and slide stop for the Super, which also has WC grip safety with a Berryhill Commander hammer, and WC checkered MSH. Rework the Kings for my 45, which has a Kings grip safety in it.
The one thing I just noticed in your pics is that the safety lock body profile is correct port and starboard. The more I see of these the more I like.
BTW I am a lefty and like the ambis.

[wjkuleck]

Thanks again Walt. The reason I was asking about the profiles is that I had to relieve the top rear of my grips for the Colt-STI type and the C & S worked out just fine on my Defender.
My Super has a Kings and is bulky and I do not want to slim it down. These grips have been modified also. The plan is to buy a WC BP Ambi safety lock and slide stop for the Super, which also has WC grip safety with a Berryhill Commander hammer, and WC checkered MSH. Rework the Kings for my 45, which has a Kings grip safety in it.
The one thing I just noticed in your pics is that the safety lock body profile is correct port and starboard. The more I see of these the more I like.
BTW I am a lefty and like the ambis.
My pleasure, Ken.

I kinda know what you mean. I do get a twinge when I have to modify a part, particularly a non-available part, e.g., the left side Chateau-Thierry grip panel on my Cooper tribute:

http://www.1911TimeWarp.com/Pics/Cooper_C-T-w2a-800.jpg

Regards,

Walt

[Billy Rosewood]

Do you guys have any online sources? I looked at the wilson site and could not find that particular one, maybe I need my eyes checked. Likewise, nothing on Brownells or Midway USA.

Thanks in advance for any information,

Chris
dgnbrt8@aol.com

[WilsonCombatRep]

These parts are only available from Wilson Combat at this time and are not listed on the website as of yet.

[wjkuleck]

These parts are only available from Wilson Combat at this time and are not listed on the website as of yet.
Yep, use that old-fashioned telephone thing. Frankly, if you want/need an ambi safety, this one is worth the time and effort to acquire. Persevere.

Regards,

Walt

[Billy Rosewood]

Will do, thank you for the heads up and the info.

Chris

[Billy Rosewood]

Well, I called wilson, spoke to a cust. service guy, and he stated that they are backordered a couple months, and the only ones that are leaving the factory are on custom guns, which is disappointing to say the least.

I guess I will have to wait.

Thanks for the info guys.

Chris

[Joni Lynn]

Hmmm.............you just saved me a phone call.
Thanks for the info.

[kenhwind]

When I see it on Brownells web site then I'll be reasonably sure I might get one.
Until then I will have to use my KINGS ambi safety: PSSSST! on Wilson Combat for baiting us, HA.
In the meantime I can get my slide stop ordered, HMMM!

[Joni Lynn]

in stainless they are $99.95 and in blue a few dollars less. They are currently backordered. The best way to order is direct from us

Is that the retail cost on them?
I just called and was quoted a much higher figure for a blued one.
I ordered only one which will be available in a few weeks.

Thanks.

[dogdollar]

Is that the retail cost on them?
I just called and was quoted a much higher figure for a blued one.

Thanks.

MUCH higher?
My goodness, what are these things made of?
DD

[Joni Lynn]

I don't remember the exact price but it was $140 something.

[Dave Berryhill]

I ordered one and was told that it would be on back order a week or so while they were being blued. That was 1 1/2 months ago and I haven't received it yet.

[RickB]

SVI/Infinity's barstock ambi is $93, and I think it is (was) the most expensive on the market.

[dogdollar]

SVI/Infinity's barstock ambi is $93, and I think it is (was) the most expensive on the market.

I bought one of those. They are amazing.
DD

[kenhwind]

I don't remember the exact price but it was $140 something.
That seems a bit pricey IMO.
Kimber sells one with the Kings type dovetail hammer pin retainer, with a more streamlined thumb pad.
The SVI Infinity is about 60 bucks according to their website.
I like the Colt factory type teardrop shaped one myself.
A hundred dollars is one thing, but 140 is another. Don't matter can't get em anyhow.

[RickB]

The SVI Infinity is about 60 bucks according to their website.
.

+ $33 for ambi, and + $38 for wide ambi.

[kenhwind]

+ $33 for ambi, and + $38 for wide ambi
OK I must of missed that.

[dogdollar]

Yep. Like I said, I bought one..it was ninety something for the ambi in blued steel. It is an amazingly well-crafted piece.
DD

[dogdollar]

WAIT.....STOP THE PRESSES.........
Just visited the SVI site for the first time in a while. Check THIS out......
http://www.sviguns.com/4003.php

DD

[Joni Lynn]

That's pretty cool. Thanks.

[turkehntrc]

in stainless they are $99.95 and in blue a few dollars less. They are currently backordered. The best way to order is direct from us


I just received my backordered safety in stainless. The price I was charged was $160. Quite a bit higher than the quoted price from the Wilson Rep. I will be sending back and checking with Infinity.

[kenhwind]

The price I was charged was $160.
At that price I won't be buying any. The Wilson Rep misled us on this one. The price I mean.

[WilsonCombatRep]

Ken,
I quoted the price of the part at the time (March) that was listed in the 2009 catalog (That was printed almost a year before these parts were ever made). Since then there have been multiple price increases on these (and other fully machined) parts. This part in particular is proving more difficult to make than anticipated and our scrap rate is very high. They are also in high demand on finished guns. We are working out the bugs manufacturing these parts. Please bear with us.

Believe me when I tell you there is no incentive for me (Or Wilson) to "sell" these parts online at this time. If you check our website you will see they are not even available for purchase. They are special order, allocated parts. We had hoped they would be in full production at the original price by now. I am sorry you feel misled-I think thats a pretty strong word. That is not my goal or purpose and I learned a lesson when I posted these parts a bit prematurely.
I posted the parts so people had a better understanding of what makes a Wilson Combat pistol, where our R&D efforts are headed, and how we are different-not to "sell" parts. If you remember I did not post a price originally for this reason.


As far as the SVI safety, SVI makes beautiful machined parts. Their safety uses a tongue and groove similar to a Swenson or Ed Brown-IIRC they no longer use the small screw to hold the joint together. It doesn't resemble this part in the least from an attachment perspective.

Thanks again and I am sorry anyone has lost sleep over this price change.

[kenhwind]

I do understand and realize the reality of this situation. Misled is a strong term. Premature would have been a better comment.
Remember this tho: I use Wilson Combat parts and appreciate the quality of the Bullet Proof parts. The BP slide stop is the best IMO.
I just felt that a 160 dollar ambi safety is expensive.
Hey I'm a lefty, I want one but not at that price, sorry.
No you didn't post the price you E-me'ed it. therfore I'm misleading.
Ho Hum life on the forum; LOL

[Joni Lynn]

Thanks for the explanation. Production issues happen, no big deal, I'm still looking forward to installing the part on one of my 1911's.

[turkehntrc]

I just received my backordered safety in stainless. The price I was charged was $160. Quite a bit higher than the quoted price from the Wilson Rep.

Contacted Wilson Combat by phone and they honored the $99 price. I was given a refund for the rest. I don't have safety installed yet but it looks great.
Thanks.

[Joni Lynn]

I wonder if I should call them?

[Billy Rosewood]

I ordered a stainless bulletproof ambi over the phone today, and am looking forward to getting it in. Lots of good info in this thread (and forum in general), but I am going to take this to my gunsmith to install as I don't want to trash an expensive part.

[Hawkeyesas]

Billy, Let me know how you like the ambi. I want to get one since I am a "lefty". Don't mean to be personal, but what was the price range for the ambi?

Good shooting!!

HawkeyeSAS

[Joni Lynn]

I got one in blue and the price with shipping was somewhere int he range of $150.